... the flavour and variety [of British plums] is superior to any from abroad, they freeze well, they're incredibly versatile and our consumption of them helps to support UK farmers.
Last year I was watching the gorgeous Valentine Warner on What to Eat Now, extolling the virtues of the British plum. Off he went to Brogdale, home of the National Fruit Collection, to compete with the wasps and gorge himself on soft, ripe plums. Later he returned triumphant to cook a crumble. "Hot autumn magma" he said smoulderingly, as he took it out of the oven.
Being a suggestible sort of person, I rushed to the supermarket the very next day to get myself some British plums. You can imagine how crestfallen I felt when all I could find were those disappointing, large, round Santa Rosa plums from California. Not a Victoria plum in sight, my hope of autumn magma was crushed.
This year I'm faring no better. Supermarkets are full of Angelino plums from Italy. The only British plums I've tasted this season are from my neighbour on the allotment.
It's all rather depressing really. The majority of consumers are either too busy or too indifferent to write to supermarkets demanding that they stock British plums. Yet their flavour and variety is superior to any from abroad, they freeze well, they're incredibly versatile and our consumption of them helps to support UK farmers.
So, I am mounting a pincer attack. As well as writing a letter, I've also ordered a plum tree for the allotment. It would have been lovely to go to Brogdale to eat my way through some of the 350 varieties they keep there, but instead I took the advice of fruit tree expert Paul Jasper.
Some allotments don't allow trees at all, but our committee permits dwarfing rootstock and asks that we plant trees in the centre of the plot so that we don't shade or deplete the soil for someone else. The dwarf rootstock for plums is known as 'Pixy', but if you're planting in a back garden then 'St. Julien A' is the best option since increased vigour means fewer problems with disease later on. Paul's own personal recommendations are 'Marjorie's Seedling' and 'Czar'. "Both can be used first for cooking then dessert as they become sweeter", he says.
"If I had to choose just two types on 'Pixy' it would probably be good old 'Victoria' (still the best flavour) and 'Marjorie's Seedling', which would follow it in cropping and is also prolific, so any excess could be cooked or bottled for later."
Unlike apples, plum trees are mostly self-fertile, but if you live in the North of England or are in an area prone to late frosts, then you may wish to plant the later flowering varieties.
"'Marjorie's Seedling' and 'Czar' are particularly good for frost resistance. 'Marjorie's' comes after 'Victoria' and is much less troublesome. Its toughish skin seems to deter plum sawfly, so it's good for people growing organically" adds Paul.
Just to whet your appetite, here's my own version of plum crumble:
FOR THE FILLING:
10-15 plums, halved
1 tablespoon of water
1 tablespoon of sugar
Cinnamon
Mixed spice
1 thumb-length of fresh ginger
Preheat oven to 180°C . Cook the plums over a low heat with the water and sugar. When almost cooked, turn off the heat, allow to cool a little, de-stone and place in an oven-proof dish. Sprinkle with two or three shakes each of the cinnamon and mixed spice. Coarsely grate the ginger over the plums, (grating lengthways along the grain to avoid hairy bits).
FOR THE CRUMBLE:
170g (6 oz) wholemeal flour
85-110g (3-4 oz) butter
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons rolled oats
2-3 tablespoons brown sugar (depending on taste)
Cinnamon
Mixed spice (a few shakes if desired)
Rub the fat into the flour then mix in the oats, sugar, salt and spices. Put over the crumble and bake for 25-30 minutes. Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream.
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