by James Alexander-Sinclair
Elder is a native tree with white flowers in midsummer and bunches of small black berries in autum... like many weeds, it has both a purpose and an interesting story.
At this time of year hedgerows bristle with elderflowers. Elder (Sambucus nigra) is a native tree with white flowers in midsummer and bunches of small black berries in autumn. It is a bit of a weed but, like many weeds, it has both a purpose and an interesting story.
The elder has always been considered a magic plant, supposed to ward off evil and provide useful protection from witches - in some parts of the world cutting down an elder may bring the wrath of some evil sprite upon you. If that is the case I might be in trouble, as I have dug out hundreds of inappropriately placed specimens. The wood of elder has a soft centre so can easily be hollowed out for flutes and, apparently, magic wands.
It would be the wrong time of year to tell you about elderberry wine (except to say that the eating of unfermented berries is not good for the digestion as raw berries contain traces of cyanide), but there are few things more delicious in summer than elderflower cordial or elderflower sorbet. Both are relatively simple to make and many people have their own twist to the classic recipe. This one for cordial is my wife's adaptation:
• Pick 25 flower heads (they should always be picked while they are in full sun for the best taste)
• Boil 2 litres of water and dissolve 1.3kg sugar in it
• Take off the heat and add the flower heads
• Slice 2-3 lemons into a bowl (at this point you can add citric acid to prolong shelf life)
• Pour the liquid over the lemons, cover and leave for 24hrs
• Strain into a bottle
• Add ice and water to taste
• Lie back and ignore the weeding
Although they're generally unwelcome, there are two really good ornamental elders that deserve a place in most gardens. The first is Sambucus racemosa 'Plumosa Aurea', which is the glorious golden-leaved variety that will light up a shady spot like a 100w lamp. The other is Sambucus nigra 'Black Lace', which has lacy purple leaves and flowers with a slight pink tinge.
The most famous contemporary reference to the elder comes in Monty Python and the Holy Grail, when the French defenders of a fort taunt King Arthur and his Knights by yelling "your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries" from the battlements.
P.s. - anybody who is in Northamptonshire this coming weekend should do their utmost to attend the Cottesbrooke Plantfinders Fair. It is being held all weekend (27,28,29) in the fantastic grounds of Cottesbrooke Hall. There will be some marvellous nurseries selling a great range of plants and sundries. The gardens are well worth seeing as well. I hope to see you there.
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