by James Alexander-Sinclair
There are two sorts of mulberry grown in the UK: Morus nigra, which is the fruiting, delicious variety and Morus alba, which produces tiny, lumpy and sour-tasting berries.
I wonder how many of you out there grow mulberry trees? Probably not enough of you. I have vivid memories of the first mulberry tree I came across in the grounds of a big old house in Surrey.
My recollection is not one of the great horticultural spectacle of an ancient and gnarled tree, but of the chin dribbling-deliciousness of a ripe mulberry fruit. Those who have eaten mulberries will know exactly what I mean; those who have never tried them are really missing a trick. Mulberries are bigger and firmer than raspberries, juicier than the fattest blackberry, with a slight tartness on first bite that quickly transforms into something sweeter. When they're properly ripe the slightest touch leaves a livid stain on the fingers as red as a showgirl's kisses. If you've been sneakily feasting on mulberries there's no way you can easily conceal the fact.
There are two sorts of mulberry grown in the UK: Morus nigra, which is the fruiting, delicious variety and Morus alba, which produces tiny, lumpy and sour-tasting berries. This latter is the more famous tree, however, because (as every schoolchild knows) it provides about the only food that a silkworm will tolerate. The grubs feed on the mulberry leaves before wrapping themselves into cocoons made out of silk (between 300 and 900 metres of the stuff). These cocoons are then unravelled and the strands woven into fine fabric that is not only smooth and sexy but also disproportionately warm (silk long johns are by far the best sort of winter underwear). It takes about 1500 cocoons to make a pound of silk.
In the 19th century there was the equivalent of a gold rush over mulberries in the United States. There was massive speculation and excitement about growing mulberry trees and the long-term possibilities of making a fortune in silk. So much so that at one point old trees were selling for the equivalent of £75 each. The market eventually collapsed and most of the trees died from blight and extreme cold.
The reality is that silkworms need too much work, so you'd be much better off planting black mulberries, with their big, blowsy leaves and bark the colour of cork. Morus nigra seems to live for a very long time - even after falling over - and many older gardens have ancient specimens. (There is a black mulberry at Loseley Park in Surrey that was apparently planted by Elizabeth I). The trees respond well to pruning and make a wonderful addition to any medium-sized garden.
If you make jam from your mulberries you might wish to try an interesting Turkish recipe for mulberry jam with feta cheese.
See more comments...
