Start a new thread

1 to 20 of 34 replies

Orchid Lady

I was so looking forward to my first tomato tonight, it came off very easily but when I turned it over I noticed it was greeny brown underneath and soft, like it has gone rotten?  Can someone tell me what has happened.....what have I done wrong and will this happen to all my fruit? 

 Gutted Tracey 



OL - what are the leaves on the plant like?  Afraid that looks like blight to me  

Are your tomato plants in pots?  If so, I'd move that one as far away from the others as possible. 

Orchid Lady

Oh noooooooo 

Here are a couple of pics, the tomato came off the end of the bunch you can see. It is the plant I posted about a couple of weeks ago with the black bits on the lower leaves.  I have checked all the other fruits on all my plants and they are all firm, no soft bits and still all green.


 I was hoping that maybe it had just got wet or something 

Orchid Lady

I'll google both of those after dinner.  I was going to cut the rotten bit and eat the rest......maybe not!!


Orchid Lady

More watering I out with the watering can 


Orchid Lady

Thanks Buddyboy, I didn't see your post when I posted above and had just read that exact piece myself, I'm glad its not blight, or at least I hope it isn't.  See what Dove says about the pics.


In my experience BER tends to be darker with sunken blemishes.   I hope Buddyboy is right.  

I'm worried that this is the plant that you had concerns about earlier ....


Orchid Lady

Me too Dove, I will do some more research and see what happens, I have nowhere I can move it too as no room 

If it's blight I would expect to see the stem of the plant going black, blight is a big problem on our allotments, so far this year we're clear but this is the time it strikes so if I was you I would check the whole plant carefully, if any of the stems have started to go black then I would put the plant straight into a plastic bag and bin it!
If its just the fruit then it could be BER. Fingers crossed its the latter. I have lost complete crops to blight, its a sickener.
Orchid Lady

Well, as you can see from the picture above of the plant there are only a few black spots on the leaves which I believe is caused by a mineral deficiency.  The stem and side shoots are really healthy......been so fed up about it but I feel a bit more positive now 


I'm no expert and I'm not sure but it does look like Blossom End Rot.  It was the first think I thought of when I saw the picture.

Orchid Lady

Thank you everyone, I am going to water again in the morning and also feed them tomorrow.  I must admit, my compost is rubbish, it doesn't seem to be holding any moisture for any of my plants.....lesson learnt, next year I will have my own compost or buy better quality and not using growbags black buckets from Morrison's is the way to go, all my plants in black buckets are thriving 

Orchid Lady

Ok, having read up on BER and blight - both early and late (I didn't realise there were two types) I am still undecided, mainly because I do have discoloured leaves but not discoloured stalks and I need to inspect the leave more closely in the morning.

So, although I hope that it is BER I'm not taking any chances and tomorrow will take preventative measures for blight. I am going to remove more leaves from the bottom and any discoloured leaves. Unfortunately I can't move the plant as I have nowhere to move it to unless I move the whole GH around and that may mean damaging plants.

I will do my best to not lose my plant and will update you later in the season....or sooner if it dies  Thanks everyone for your help, lots of support as always 


Orchid Lady, it's not BER. BER produces a dark leathery patch on the fruit.

Looking at the second photo in your 20.34 post, you've got a sick plant. Signs of several fungal problems and probably nutrient deficiencies too. I'd pot it up into a bigger pot with good quality potting mix and isolate it from the healthy plants. I'd also lay off the watering.


You have two problems with that plant OL. One is blossom end rot. I find this is usually caused by erratic watering ( letting it dry and then getting wet and then drying out again)

The second is Phosphorus deficiency it manifests itself as purpling in the leaves, particularly the leaf veins (as in your pic). In severe cases the whole plant may take on a purple hue. Tomato roots growing in cold soil, either in the greenhouse or the field, take up phosphorus poorly. Deficient plants lose vigour and yield poorly.

I find Epsom salts in the compost when you start helps the plant absorb more nutrients especially if the compost is poor.





I never water my tomatoes until the leaves begin to flag - I then fill the pots to the top with water (I allow a 6-8" gap between compost surface and pot rim).  I do this consistently - last summer I was only watering my tomatoes once or twice a week at the most -  out of 27 plants and a huge crop of tomatoes I had only one fruit with BER.

Tomatoes do not need constantly moist soil, it impedes the take up of calcium which causes BER.  I only fertilise my outdoor tomatoes twice - once when the first fruits have set, and again when the second truss has set.  This helps prevent imbalances in the compost which can also contribute to BER.

Italophile is the expert and can explain the theory better than I can, but this article is helpful - you'll see it advises reducing watering to prevent BER 


However, I agree with Italophile - the OP's tomato does not have BER


If you do use Epsom salts OL. I recommend 2 tablespoons per gallon. Your lawn and roses will love it as well.

"Epsom salts is hydrated magnesium sulfate (about 10 percent magnesium and 13 percent sulfur). Magnesium is critical for seed germination and the production of chlorophyll, fruit, and nuts. Magnesium helps strengthen cell walls and improves plants' uptake of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur." 

"The deficiency in the soil may be one reason your tomato leaves yellow between the leaf veins late in the season and fruit production slows down.  Epsom salts can keep plants greener and bushier, enhance production of healthier fruit later in the season, and potentially help reduce blossom-end rot. Apply 1 tablespoon of granules around each transplant, or spray a solution of 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon of water at transplanting, first flowering, and fruit set."

Source. 2014 National Gardening Association 

Orchid Lady

Wow, thanks everyone for all your replies, even if they have left me a bit baffled!!  It seems that it could be a number if things.  I had said on the Forkers thread just now that I was going to water little and often, but I'm not going to do that.

Here is my plan of action that I have decided based on the various inputs:

  • I am going to repot the plant into a black bucket and move it the nearer the door of the GH away from other plants.
  • I'm going to remove the bottom damaged leaves.
  • I will feed with Epsom salts
  • Then continue to water to keep the compost damp only but ensuring it doesn't dry out at any time.

I think that's as much as I can do and if it doesn't work, well lesson learned for next year.

Thanks again everyone......and no falling out please, everyone has their ways that work, as a 'newbie' I am open to suggestions and help and no doubt over the years will find what works for me 



Everyone finds a way that works for them - I find that understanding the science behind the theory really helps. 

Good luck