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Hello to anyone reading, I just ordered two victoria plum trees online bare root, I have researched as much as I can about the light level they require but am still unsure about it and dont want to plant them both and a few years down the line have no fruit! My garden is open on three sides with no shading but the back has 2 giant ash trees with an understory of damsons,lilacs,sycamore and young lawsons cypress. The sun disapears for nearly half of the day behind this wall and only returns briefly to set. Would my two plum trees grow behind this green wall and get enough light from the sun to produce lots of lovely plums? I fear my descripton may be a little bit confusing but I dont have any gardening friends to ask in person. Many thanks. Dean Alex.
just bump for you dean, I'm sure someone will know. I got one myself about 3 weeks ago. I've put mine in a tub untill i do my front garden.
Not an expert, but we were advised to site all our fruit trees in full sun. Try looking at the web pages of some fruit tree suppliers (we got ours from Ashridge, who have a really informative website, but there are Keepers and Brogdale too).
Plum trees do not require as precise pruning as apples and pears, but still benefit from initial training and the thinning of old wood to ensure they produce as much fruit as possible. Plums are pruned in early spring or mid summer to avoid infection by silver leaf disease.
Avoid pruning plums in winter, as it increases the risk of infection by silver leaf disease to which plums and other Prunus species are prone. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
There are three commonly used methods of pruning plums: bush, pyramid and fan.
The bush is perhaps the most popular method of training and pruning and creates an open-centred tree with a clear stem of 75cm (2½ft). Its ultimate size will depend on the rootstock it is grown on.Trees grafted onto ‘Pixy’ rootstocks will reach 3m (10ft), ‘St. Julien A’ 3.6-4.5m (13-15ft) and the ‘Brompton’ and ‘Myrobalan B’ 6m (20ft).
The overall aim of pruning is to create an open-centred tree. This begins with the sameformative pruning as apples and pears but, importantly, carried out in early spring.
On established trees, rub out any buds developing on the lower trunk and carefully pull off suckers arising from the rootstock. Pruning is mostly limited to removing crossing, weak, vertical and diseased material. If the plum tree is still crowded then further thinning can be done in July.
A pyramid plum tree is considerably smaller than a pruned a bush, and this makes it practical to net against birds. Plums on ‘St. Julien A’ rootstocks are kept to 2.4m (8ft) and on ‘Pixy’ rootstocks to 1.8m (6ft).
The pruning of a newly planted tree is the same as for apples and pears. Remember: carried out in April not winter to avoid silver leaf disease.
Afterwards the initial pruning, follow these steps:
Thank you everyone. I will give it ago.
Let's us know how you get on young man ...
young man haha well both bare root trees arrived tonight at about 8pm! via courier. So I will get them in tomorrow
I would think they are grafted as well, so should fruit well next year.
I've grown a V. plum in a slightly shady spot and it performed well.
However, one of the drawbacks of VPs is that they are prone to grow long slim branches and then crop so heavily that the branches bend and even snap with the weight.
Growing in a shady spot can exaggerate this tendency, so be prepared to thin the crop (I know it breaks your heart but do it) and also, sometime between now and early summer you need to find some strong forked sticks of appropriate heights to support the laden branches (like with clothes props) to prevent snapping.
Ours fruited in the first year after planting.
I will thin the fruit when and if it does get lots of small fruit, I had to persuade my dad to thin his pear tree fruit as the branchs were bowing and 1 had snapped. In the end they all fell to the ground rock hard and small as they always do, so we removed the tree this year