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14 messages
12/02/2013 at 11:38
I have a bed which curves along one side of lawn , at the top more quadrant shaped which back side backs into open field, the right onto neighbours fence (open wood rails with open mesh farm style attached) . Being a sunny bed it has worked with no problem however the neighbour who does nil gardening has copied the quadrant although without any plants yet, lowering their side , my soil now sinks . My question is after all that what to use to keep the soil in , I have been looking at the green rolls of lawn trim not sure how effective they are though , anyone have similar to deal with ?
12/02/2013 at 11:46

gissa picture-befuddled

My experience of lawn trim -is that it is a pain to install and even more of a pain to keep in place and a pain when mowing

So a bit of a pain

12/02/2013 at 11:56

Slates, sleepers, old floorboards to name but three.

12/02/2013 at 12:41

The thin plastic lawn edging stuff is less than useful as said. We have concrete edging strips all round our grass, but they are only about 6 inches tall so ypu possibly would need something which went further into the ground.

How much lower is the new area?

12/02/2013 at 13:16

We've used railway sleepers to make a mowing strip between the lawn and the beds and also as a retaining wall to get a level veggie plot.   We've used roofing beams to make reaised beds in the veggie patch.   We've used 9" high concrete "log roll" to edge paths in the woodland garden and hold back the soil and plants.

I can recommend them all as edgers but you'd need something stouter than the log rolls to retain soil so I would go for wooden beams screwed to upright posts sunk into the ground so they don't sink away to your neighbour's garden.

 

12/02/2013 at 15:21

We used solid, seasoned wood. I have used log rolls but they do rot quite fast - unless mine were just too cheap!

12/02/2013 at 17:08

why not dig a trench and place concrete slabs on there edge butting against each other . Please do not use old railway sleepers as these contain to many contaminants such creosote and diesel fuel oil  .

Derek

12/02/2013 at 18:22

They also bleed on your clothes if you are tempted to sit on them. You can buy new, untreated ones, though.

12/02/2013 at 18:38

My sleepers were old na dhaven't bled at all.  In fact they've dried to a silvery grey and they had black plastic on teh inside to protect them from moisture in teh soil and prevent any leaching.   The shadier ones are actually growing lichens and mosses.

I've used wooden log rolls as edgers and they do rot very quickly really.   The concrete ones are much better as long as they're supported somehow and are also growing lichens now.

12/02/2013 at 18:52
Sorry Geoff no piccies, know you like those

I wouldn't have room for sleepers as its the side o bed bordering neighbour and already have brooms in there. Dragged OH up the garden and he tells me we have some old roof tiles and flags we could use , he will dig a trench to secure them in . Also have slabs of hardwood from the sawmill, too large to chop which will come in hardy also.
Many thanks for all your help , have even got OH doing some extras in the garden
12/02/2013 at 19:04
I dug out a "trench" 6 inches deep and 4 inches wide and filled it with concrete. It has mellowed beautifully, been a great success and looks good. It doesn't look like its concrete. The plastic or wooden trims are not good. The concrete edge was smoothed in and contoured to curvature of lawn. Slabs, tiles etc will allow grass to sneak in between the gaps/joins
12/02/2013 at 19:29
Thanks Verdun but the problem area is at the fence not the front where the lawn is so nothing will be seen anyway . I'd rather not make a trench of concrete as I have shrubs in there and would involve disturbing them quite a lot.
12/02/2013 at 19:44

I have used the paviors that you lay on drives, they don't need a deep trench, not cost too much and you can lay them long ways or narrow ways. i just sumk mine onto sharp sand

12/02/2013 at 19:56

Use lengths of treated wood screwed (easier than nailing if you have a drill) to stakes (preferably oak). Stakes 2" square by 18" or two feet long depending on your soil and slope. Your lengths of wood can be simply standard fencing rails, 87mm x 37mm, which you can get in 3.6m lengths from your local woodyard or farm supplier, or you can thicker and deeper sections if you like. Fix them so that theeir tops are flush or just above the soil surface. Excuse the mixed measurements!

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