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15/04/2013 at 17:16

I managed to do some bramble-eradication at the weekend, I can now see the bottom of the garden, and can (almost) get into the first shed, where there's a step down into the bottom part of the garden.

I have, however, found that there is now LOTS of bindweed, that's rivalling the brambles for world domination (or back garden domination, anyway).  Question is, how do I get rid of it.  I'm going down the glyphosate, then cutting down  & digging out roots for the brambles.  I've been told that bramble roots only go down a spade and a half, that they mostly propogate by sending out huge runners and rooting wherever they hit the floor (which is why if they're not quite dead and the green bin is full, they go onto concrete).  So I don't think I'll have THAT much digging to do for the brambles, question is, will it be the same for bindweed?  I have a horrible feeling that sends it's roots out and then pops up all over the place to strangle anything useful attempting to grow.

So, peeps, who's had it, and what's the best way to get rid of it?  All suggestions welcome.

15/04/2013 at 17:39

I thinks it's dig out what you can then spray what comes back MMD. I live with it to some extent. You'd never start planting if you waited for it all to be gone.

Plus,  the world is held together with bindweed and if it all went we'd be in trouble

15/04/2013 at 17:50
Garden was totally infested with the stuff when I moved here,oh, 18 years ago. I dug out miles of root ( easy to spot as it's creamy white ) but then my soil's very light and free draining, if yours is heavier, then that is hard work. Now I get the odd whispy bit erupting, which I nip off on sight, thinking chlorophyll deprivation will continue to knock it back.

I think a similar approach to your brambles is the way to go, some folk recommend sticking bamboo canes in the ground to encourage it to twine and grow, then bruise the foliage and zap it with glyphosate.

Good luck.
15/04/2013 at 17:52

I had a lot of Bindweed in my garden, it was coming up everywhere and the fence in my back garden would be covered in it. I used Roundup weed killer. If it was close to other plants I would paint it on to the leaves, if it is away from other plants I sprayed it on, and as I was digging the soil over at any time I would pull out any roots I found.  It didn't go overnight, it took a year or more but it was worth the wait because now I don't have any. It is a war you can win, you just have to stick with it and be patient. So go get it Mummy muddy paws and take no prisoners. Good Luck

15/04/2013 at 17:58

Yes, glyphosate/Roundup or similar then leave it until it's dead and really withered.  That way you know the stuff's gone down into the roots.  If it reappears bruise the leaves and spray or paint with more glyphosate.  

We had the big white stuff all over the last garden - it went right up into the gutters of the single story extension - we got rid of it by doing as above, but every Spring I went around the bottom of the fences bruising and spraying the leaves of shoots as they crept in from next door.  

Wonder if the new people are doing it this spring 

15/04/2013 at 19:18
Same as others. Garden had lots of bindweed but now none at all. Not sure digging is good idea but glyphosate is totally effective. Best treated at Rosette stage when lots of short young shoots are appearing. Then again when any new growth is seen. Easily eradicated in one season
15/04/2013 at 19:42

What is the difference between bindweed and japanese knotweed? Are they the same thing? Also morning glory is that a weed as well?

15/04/2013 at 20:08
15/04/2013 at 20:28

Not had to deal with bindweed but I think the advice re bruising and spraying is probably right. Certainly the best method for willow herb infestation which is my main bugbear. I've also heard the 'stick in ground to get it climbing then weedkiller' method. Constant weakening is part of it too but I suppose it also depends what you intend doing with the site once it's cleared MMP? Brambles- for all their desire to slash you at every opportunity- have quite shallow roots so they're easier to dig out.

Japanes knotweed can now get weedkiller treatment to eradicate it but I think it'sstill  a specialist job.

15/04/2013 at 20:43

Japanese knotweed is a much bigger problem than bindweed, speaking as someone who has had both. I dealt with the knotweed by cutting off the stems two inches from the ground while the plant was actively growing and pouring in neat Roundup. This does work, though some people prefer to spray the foliage. The biggest problem with it is that it is usually in the gardens/countryside around and will tend to invade again. Getting a specialist job done is probably best, but I think you have to wait a year before gardening again and everything else is killed as well. This is hearsay, though, since I didn't do this. Digging it up doesn't work because the slightest bit left in will regrow, and also it gives you a major problem with disposal.

15/04/2013 at 20:45

With the bindweed I'd just stick to zapping it with Glyphosate... If you dig yout just going to break up the root and help it to multiply!

15/04/2013 at 20:50

Back garden is in two bits.  Top half used to be lawn, it's now covered in a ford mk2 Escort, a ford Sierra, brambles and bindweed.  It has a garage down one side, with a lean-to perspex greenhouse with a tree that's grown through the roof, it's not salvageable and OH wants to extend the garage (I've agreed as long as he stops putting cars on the 'lawn').

The bottom half has two 6x4 sheds (I think - not been able to measure them yet), in a fairly bad state of repair).  Looks like the brambles started in the top half, I don't think they're going to be as bad in the bottom bit, don't think they've reached that far.  There's a step about a foot down, with a small retaining wall between top & bottom bit.

The grand plan is to replace the sheds (or repair them,) and add one for me as a potting shed, plus a small greenhouse when funds allow.  The top half will be traditional family garden, tough shubs, some flowers for scent & bees, and a lawned area.

The bottom half will be mine, all mine!  I'm planning some raised beds down there, same size as a chicken coop (also when funds allow) and practice crop and chicken rotation (so a year where the bed will be fallow and have the chicken coop and run on it, so they can trash it, and enrich it at the same time).

All this will take a fair bit of time and money, both of which are in short supply at the moment, so my priority is getting rid of the brambles, plonking some membrane over the top bit and putting down bark chips so the LO's can play out.  Also getting at least some of the bottom dug over, so I can stick crops in - fed up of paying a quid at a chuck for stringy runner beans, when I know I can grow them.

It doesn't help that it's not our house - was Father-in-Law's house, who was a hoarder, so house needs gutting and redecorating.  So I can't just nip out and spray glyphosate for 10 minutes.  The house is only over the road and down two doors, but I can't leave a boisterous 4 year old and very nearly 2 year old for even 5 minutes - even going to the loo I risk WW3 breaking out

Think I'm going to have to be ebay and car boot queen for the next 6 months, maybe I'll earn enough for that greenhouse I've been hankering after!

 

15/04/2013 at 20:57

If (when!) you find it growing amongst other plants that you don't want to accidentally kill with the glyphosate spray, train it to grow up a cane.  After a couple of weeks you can slip the cane out and bundle the bindweed into a plastic bag, spraying it inside the bag to prevent the wind blowing the spray about.

15/04/2013 at 21:41

Does glyphosate work for ivy, I'm sick off it invading from next door and taking over my flower beds. It also creeps between a doule boarded fence so ends up all over the garden.

15/04/2013 at 21:48

It does work on ivy hilary. Some say not so well but i've removed ivy with glyphosate. I was treating ivy on its own, sprayed all over, not between plants I wanted to keep.

15/04/2013 at 23:42
Ivy needs to be bruised first...for me anyway.....by scratching, trampling anything to break that waxy leaf covering and then sprayed with stronger solution of glyphosate.
Another way ...more effective....is to cut stems to near ground level and paint with sbk brushwood killer
16/04/2013 at 08:35

I like Bob the Gardener's solution; I have a bit of bindweed that comes under the concrete gravel board from the field behind. It then searches for holes in the membrane under the gravel of my drive, where I have cut holes to plant hollyhocks etc. I have to admire its' perseverance. But I like the sneakyness of putting in a stick to trick the bindweed

17/04/2013 at 05:48

Bindweed at the centre of the earth... 1st time I've EVER laughed about bindweed!

My garden was full of it, plus brambles & nettles. Some of the areas had never been gardened at all, ever. 

First I used bramble killer on the lot. Waited for it do die then cleared surface. Then I sat on the soil, legs akimbo, all very elegant, and gradually shuffled along on my bum and dug it all out with a trowel. This took me every spare moment I had for an entire summer (the garden is big). I spent so long like that, that a robin took to sitting on the toe of my boot and waiting for me to turn up worms for her and her fledgling! Some of the roots were attached to rhizomey things that looked for al the world like giant parsnips. Guess it'd been there a good while! Then when I thought I'd finished I went around again with a spade and took out the deeper bits I'd missed (surprisingly few). Now I just spray the odd bit that comes up thru the fence or whatever. BUT, ths only worked because the soil is light and loamy, making it easier to get the roots out without them breaking. That's also why I did it by hand. Breaking up bindweed roots is also known as PROPAGATION. My neighbours spray theirs twice a year. It always dies off, and always comes back - to the tune of about 6ft of growth twice a year. They probably pitied me, shuffling along on my butt week after week, trowel in hand. But I bet they're jealous now!! 

P.S., u can mix weedkiller with flour and paint it onto plants if u don't want it to blow around. The flour makes it stick to the foliage rather than evaporating so it can really soak in. I use this on the odd bramble that comes up in amongst things. U can also chop the bottom off a pop bottle, then when your bindweed has grown up its decoy cane, put the bottle over the top (cut end down), and slide it down with the cane coming up through the neck. U've made yourself a nice little cloche full of bindweed. U can then squirt weedkiller thru the neck of the bottle to your heart's content, or put the lid on, gently upend the cloche and spray into the big end - leave the cloche in place on the soil in case you need to repeat a week later, removing it all when it goes brown. Doing it this way avoids snapping the stems, meaning maximum poison getting down where u want it. Cunning!

17/04/2013 at 08:33
Aunty Betty
No,half measures there!
Sounds like a plan to mix flour with weedkiller. Will try that.
There we have a total comprehensive weed killing programme.
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