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08/04/2013 at 12:28

I have a greenhouse and a metal base. Never had one before. Can you please tell me...this metal base...can I use it to then secure to a few sleepers ( to make my greenhouse 6ft x 10ft higher slightly ).

Or - Do I not use the base for something like this? Whats the best method?

Thanks

 

08/04/2013 at 12:35

If you're going to screw a greenhouse down to something it needs to be totally solid.  I don't think sleepers would be solid enough as they could move independently. That would put stresses on the GH and might crack the glass. It doesn't take much movement to crack glass.  I've watched slabs gradually coming up at one end as they get didturbed by moles, ants people etc. Sleepers will do this as well. I'd start with a concrete foundation round the edge.

08/04/2013 at 12:35

The base should be fixed securely to the ground, usually this will be done using either a poured concrete base (20cm depth) or one that is made using breeze blocks secured down with concrete. The metal base would then be attached to these using heavy duty anchor bolts to ensure it stays put in high wind.

If you want to put sleepers on first to increase the height then you will need to secure these to the ground too, however this could be down with fence post anchors (the metal type that hammer into the ground). Then use several short sections of fence post and screw them to the sleepers before screwing the metal baseonto the sleepers too.

However given the two options I would go for the concrete foundation as it will ultimately last longer ans also stop pests from burrowing under and into the greenhouse (I have a rabit problem).

08/04/2013 at 12:40

Yes you could, but i'd recommend pressure treated timber rather than creosote treated sleepers. These are carcinogenic  and can weep in the heat. As long as you have enough weight in the base then you can do a lot of things.  The critical thing is for the greenhouse to be secure in the wind and well located. 

A concrete or slab base on hardcore is more usual. I get the point of it being possible there could be some movement in the sleepers but wouldnt that be true in a wood framed greenhouse too?

 

08/04/2013 at 13:42

Thanks for the advice. Ok..no to sleepers then. It is a concrete base..but i like the idea of a bit more height.

So..if i bought some bricks and made a double thick brick wall..say..5 high.

Back to me original question though. I havent seen my greenhouse..only ordered it...so..i dont know..about base...I mean, is it ok..normal..to secure the base to the brick wall i will build..or not use the base at all.

Thanks again

08/04/2013 at 13:52

Just realised what the base is I think. 8" or so of metal at the bottom? You won't need that if you build a brick wall.

08/04/2013 at 14:39

Great, thanks thats what i needed to know. So you chaps are sure then..wont be all 'bendy' etc..i dont need the base, just..somehow?..secure aluminum to a short brick wall then.

08/04/2013 at 15:01
I think you'd be wise to use the base, as I remember when I put mine up ( on a concrete base on pre existing hard standing) we got ground screws to secure the base to the concrete, so you should be able to do the same onto a brick wall. Do remember though, if you're raising the whole thing to get more height inside, the door will be raised as well, leaving a step the height of your wall to climb over every time you go in and out.
08/04/2013 at 15:46

Thats just what was going through my tiny mind..How do you do the door!!! In my head I have a nice wall 5 bricks high or so..looks nice..keeps frost / a little more warm perhaps...but..how'd you step in!!!!

Im no builder..but think i could lay a few bricks...so the only option then..is to have steps up to greenhouse and a drop! into it.

I think i'll pass in which case!! Unless any bright soul knows how to do it another way?

09/04/2013 at 10:10

Just a thought...perhaps someone can advise...

SURELY, if I build a small brick wall..secure greenhouse to the wall...the only problem  is the door. SO - ( and not having seen my greenhouse yet..but it is a simple single door sliding to the side ) - cant i just EXTEND the door by a foot. Extend the aluminum ( somehow? ) and 1 pane of glass?

NO ? not as simple as that?

09/04/2013 at 11:38
It's not just the length of the door you have to take into account, it's the aluminium channel running horizontally along the base into which the bottom door rollers fit.

If you just lengthen the door you may find it hard to open it.
09/04/2013 at 12:26

If it is a sliding door then you will have to be very careful how you place the greenhouse on the bricks, it will have to slide infront or behind them.

09/04/2013 at 12:40

Thanks, and too Figrat for pointing that out...had I the greenhouse in front of me I coulkd of seen that...ok..so...not quite so..simple then.

Knowing my luck, i will wreak this greenhouse  before I get it! But, its now or never i suppose to make it a little higher/potentiall a little warmer.

I suppose its not impossible - somehow - to cut the rail at the bottom..i mean..end of the day not rocket science i suppose...to create a new sliding door - to slide in front of some bricks is it.

Just asking in case of any other potential problems your aware of thats all. Might give it a go.

09/04/2013 at 19:51

I erected an 18 ft long greenhouse secured to sleepers, and it worked a treat. The garden was quite exposed but in 15 years it never moved. The sleepers were very heavy, anc combined with the weight of the greenhouse it was very solid (and easier for me to bolt the greenhouse to sleepers than to concrete. 

the main reason for opting for sleepers was that I was not confident I could get a concrete base absolutely level all the way round. i was worrried that the frame mighte nd up being distorted and the glass hard to fit. With the sleepers I was able to pack the underneath with sharp sand and make fine adjustments befire erecting the frame. Itw as also a lot less effort than digging a trench and mixing lots of cement. 

09/04/2013 at 20:25

So - in a nutshell...When the greenhouse arrives...do I discard that metal base altogether? and I just use the 'thin' frame and bolt that onto the brick wall i will build.

Then, i will extend the door ( somehow ) and (somehow ) attach the runner to the outside of the ..4 brick high..wall.

 

Simples yes? No problems you can forsee? Bricks..two width across be enough?

10/04/2013 at 19:35

I APPRECIATE that to some this is a dead parrot of a thread - problem answered kinda thing. However, I would enjoy a reply or more from those in the know...aka ..from someone who owns a single sliding door greenhouse.

Mine, not yet delivered..im still pondering the idea of a small brick wall.

Do you think, i can...perhaps..purchase a sliding rail from B&Q etc...and lay on the outside of my greenhouse wall - thus enabling the sliding door to work ok. I dont want a step at all.

 

Just not having a greenhouse to hand means I cannot see what im working with so to speak..IS IS JUST A SIMPLE CASE OF WHERE TO PLACE THE SLIDING RAIL if i build a wall and bolt my greenhouse onto it?

10/04/2013 at 20:41

I have just erected a 6x6 greenhouse on concrete fence posts leveled with sand and cement and anchord down in the corners.The aluminium base does make the greenhouse a LOT more ridged so i would leave it on.You say you are no bricklayer belive me five courses will take some keeping level for the inexperianced. 

10/04/2013 at 20:43
It's going to be a very fiddly job to fit the extended door, and I'm wondering whether it might help to either go to a greenhouse showroom and ask the people there, or wait for your gh to arrive so you can have a good look at the fixtures and fittings.

I'm sure your idea's not impossible, just...fiddly!

Do let us know how you get on.
10/04/2013 at 20:45

We've just got a single sliding door GH 6x8ft.

It came with a base and is Aliminimum (spelling?) and polly panes.

We've dug a trench about a bricks depth on it's side, put a layer of bricks on top and pointed them. We've left a gap in one of the holes in the bricks nearest to the garage door so if we want to run electricity to it we can.

The much beloved is in charge of any construction and he's going to run batons along the "wall" to drill into and fix the greenhouse. There's a small lip on the bottom of the GH frame and the wood should make it easier to square up the frame on the foundation.

We're going to totally loose the base that came with it.

I don't know if this helps you or not but I don't understand why you would want to extend the door?

If you're worried about a big drop either side of your foundation surely you can back fill inside the surround to raise the level inside, and have a couple of flags piled up outside as steps?

I might be wrong but I think you're possible making it tricker than it needs to be?

10/04/2013 at 21:22

Ok won't carry this thread on any further think it's run it's course. Thanks for all the replies, the fact you mentioned, the BASE makes the greenhouse structure more solid..if very important to me. Likewise, the mention by Moonlit that they are going to lose the base altogether.

These are the two important parts for me...losing the base..will i weaken the structure!!

I will indeed give it a go..BUT the thought of losing that Base!! I dont know. What i do know is, i love the look of a greenhouse on a few bricks, and do believe it will help - a little - re warmth etc..and height. I recall my grandads always being  a pain ..as it was just too low once the grapevine overtook etc etc

THANKS again, appreciate time taken to reply.

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