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31/08/2012 at 13:10

We had same problem and sorted it by cutting down all brambles and other overgrown stuff with a powerful hedge trimmer - the bonfire burnt for 4 days - and then digging over an area at a time deeply. and havingmore bonfires. Some areas I sprayed with Roundup plus but have found roots still need to be dug.Ihn fact our bonfires became a joke with our neighbours! 

We then kept them cut dwon in areas we were not working on and have slowly beaten the stuff. In the cultivated areas we still have weak brambles but are easily sorted. You do have to keep going over what has been dug.

21/2 years on we still have areas to 'un-bramble' in fact I have started on the last bad area today.

I don't think there is a quick fix really, just hard and persistant work.

Now in the area started today i have found a few (4) newts under some builders plastic. Replaced plastic for now but does anyone out there in garden land know where I can put them without harm, blue builders plastic is right where new rhubarb bed will go

31/08/2012 at 14:33

Find another dark damp place - preferably still in your garden - and relocate the newts there. If they're not happy they'll move anyway, it's not time to hibernate yet.

29/07/2013 at 16:46

Avoid using barbarian or glyphosate as mentioned in this blog. You need a tough woody weed killer. A storger alternative to SBK i found was broadshot. One treatment will control brambles and any other tough woody weeds. http://www.agrigem.co.uk/weed-killers/forestry-weeds/broadshot.html 

29/07/2013 at 16:52

  Ramsey dog, do you work for agrigem?

29/07/2013 at 17:44

Broadshot (formerly known as Broadsword) contains Dicamba.  A quick look at the dicamba factsheet shows:

"Dicamba’s toxicity to honey bees ranges from moderately toxic to practically non-toxic"

"Researchers evaluated the toxicity of dicamba to worker honey bees when exposed to dicamba on contact or by ingestion.

Less than half of the bees died at all doses tested."

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/dicamba_tech.pdf

 

It also contains Triclopyr.  

"Triclopyr is practically non-toxic to bees"  

I'm always more than a little suspicious of statements like that.  I think it translates to "it is toxic". 

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/triclogen.pdf

08/09/2013 at 16:07

my garden is paved but still the brambles grow we have cut them right back and used weedkillers but nothing seems to stem their growth I am really desperate now as nothing seems to work

 

15/06/2014 at 20:53

I also have bramble issues, I have a tiered garden with a decked balcony, they have grown underneath the balcony that we have within an old rockery and the roots are impossible to locate and get out. I have recently cut them back again and was hoping to stop them growing by covering the ground and the rockery under the decking with sheeting or terram, does anyone know if this will work? I was going to block the underneath of the decking off with trellis once the sheeting is down but don't want to go to this trouble if they will grow through. Any advice please?? I would love to grow some clematis or something prettier than this awful bramble!!!

16/06/2014 at 07:05

Hannah, if you have cut the brambles down to stumps, paint them now with SBK brushwood killer.

16/06/2014 at 08:58

hire a brush cutter (looks like a strimmer but with a metal blade) and take everything you want out down to the ground, then spray with a glyphosate based weed killer (if you can mix it yourself then make it 25% stronger than the normal mix)

this should get rid of maybe 60-70% of the stuff and then cover with something like tarpaulin (not terran or weed matting it'll burst right thru) carpet is great but looked down on a bit now due to the chemicals it can hold.

I have many years of experience working on a councils allotment team clearing out allotments that had been abandoned for many years! - I have the scars to prove it! :S

16/06/2014 at 09:25

When you've taken it all down to the ground. What are you spraying treehugger?

16/06/2014 at 09:43

sorry should have added, leave for a week, spray the regrowth

16/06/2014 at 11:21

I understand now. Might take a bit more than a week but I see where you are

16/06/2014 at 11:30

Dig and dig, little bit by little bit. Chemicals are, to my mind, the wrong course. What you'll need to clear the brambles will have to be strong enough to do the job, meaning there's bound to be residue left in the ground, despite the manufacturer's assurances to the opposite.  I found my old garden was very fertile after I'd cleared it, patch by patch, as the years of falling leaf litter had enriched the soil properly.  The mattock was ground down very sharp by the time I'd finished.  Start a fire and keep topping it up as you dig the bramble roots out. Keep some of the best plants for fruit. I believe there are over 2000 recognised clones of blackberry, meaning some of them will be good to eat and ALL will be good for jam. HC

16/06/2014 at 12:02
Hannah Parker wrote (see)

I also have bramble issues, I have a tiered garden with a decked balcony, they have grown underneath the balcony that we have within an old rockery and the roots are impossible to locate and get out. ....

I think the difficulty here is that the roots are un-get-at-able in a rockery underneath a deck/balcony.  

Glyphosate would seem to be the only solution short of dismantle the deck and the rockery

08/10/2014 at 09:59

An interesting thread as I have had the same problem for years over a large piece of ground. For what it's worth my experience is that the only way is attrition. Cut the fronds back to the root and, when the soil is moist use a strong fork and a crowbar to take out the main root. Then regularly pull or fork out the smaller shoots that will reappear for years. It gets easier over time as the new shoots get smaller.

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21 to 35 of 35 messages