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How close should the canes be to be as productive as possible pls

The bed is 12 inches wide and about 14 foot long and the canes are about 4 - 6 inches apart and 12 - 18 inches tall

They fruited reasonably well last year


I plant mine a good 18 inches to 2 ft apart. 


Should I cut back some  to leave the ones I want at 18 inches apart


Cutting back won't do it - I'd wait until autumn and then lift and divide/take cuttings and plant out with more space.

Don't know what others think?



So its getting the root system of the exiting canes out of the way so the remainder can thrive

Sounds like a good plan if you can officially tell me whem Autumn will begin in this strange year !!



Autumn is when the leaves change colour and start falling from the trees, the woods and fields are full of fungi and the squirrels are burying their nuts. 


Oohh    Norfolk sarcasm.

Many thanks for the advice


Sarcasm not meant - obviously poor attempt at humour 


Tomatoes Assistance pls 

I have 7 plants all about 2 foot tall in 7inch pots

3 have white roots coming out of the bottom of the pots

? Do they need to go into bigger pots

? Some of the bottom leaves are going a different colour , lighter green and light brown

? Do I have to pich out the top of the plants like beans at some stage please



Hi, yes they need bigger pots.  Mine are in pots the size of big buckets!  But most of mine are beefsteaks so they're going to be big plants producing (hopefully) big tomatoes!  Do you know what sort of tomatoes you have?

Don't worry about the bottom leaves - I've just spent the afternoon picking off the bottom leaves from my plants so they don't pick up fungal spores from the soil - again hopefully!

As for pinching out etc - this is where we need to know the variety or type of plant you have - is it a bush type, which usually grows lots of small/very small tomatoes - or is it what is called 'indeterminate' which will need staking and sideshoots pinching out and eventually it will need stopping by pinching out at the top (but not yet!).

Let us know varieties if you can! 


The variety are Unwins Cherry Sweet Million F! Hybrids for containers



I've not grown Sweet Millions although I understand they're a smashing little tomato.  From what I've read they form quite a large plant, so will need large pots and support from a cane or two.  

They are an Indeterminate type - this means that you need to take out the little side-shoots that form in the axils of the large leaves.  You will also have to pinch out the tip  when sufficient trusses have formed - how many trusses to allow depends a lot on where you're growing them and on the weather we get this season.

Don't feed until the first truss of fruits have set, and don't over-water - people seem to think that tomatoes need to be damp all the time, but they don't.  I only water mine when the leaves begin to wilt - and don't water the leaves.  Try to keep the leaves dry (a bit of a struggle for me as I grow mine outside).

As for when to pinch the tips out - I'll see if I can steer some of the tomato experts this way - as the heading of the thread is about raspberries they might not look - I'll see what I can do 


NewBoy, Dove is right. Sweet Millions is an indeterminate, it can grow to 6' or more if allowed, meaning it has an extensive root system. Your plants are already telling you they need more room for their roots.

Indeterminates need at least 30cm pots, preferably bigger, if they're to reach their potential. But pot depth is even more important for indeterminates. The plants will be need to be staked and tied up to the stakes as they grow. Too shallow a pot and there will be insufficient soil to keep the stake stable. The first strong wind will blow the stake out of the pot and take the plant with it. Look for pots at least 35cm deep and sturdy stakes. The stakes will be carrying/supporting a decent weight as the plants grow up.

You can control the height of an indeterminate by nipping out the growing tips - the tops of the stems that are growing upwards. They're called the "leaders". They're easy to identify. They're the ones producing new foliage and flowers, not the side branches.

When you nip them out depends on how many toms you want. Indeterminates continue to produce foliage and fruit as they grow during the season. Once you stop the plant growing, that's the end of your ongoing fruit production. You'll harvest only from the trusses that have already formed below the point where you stop them growing.

You've got 7 plants, they're a productive variety. You have to decide how many toms you want the plants to produce. Or you can just let them grow through the season and harvest the results.

All Dove's advice is excellent. Nip out the suckers/side shoots that develop in the intersections of the main stem(s)/leaders and side branches. Left to grow, they will form more growing tips which will become leaders themselves. The rule of thumb is that two leaders is sufficient.

Don't overwater - let the mix in the pot dry out between waterings - and don't over-fertilise. Toms in pots don't need fertilising more than once every three weeks. Toms produce best when treated with controlled neglect. Over-watered and over-fertilised plants are less likely to produce at their maximum, and, in fact, are more prone to disease.

Hard to know what's going on with your lower leaves without seeing a photo. It could be the plants' roots protesting about the lack of space in the pots, could be the early stages of a fungal infection. Can you post a photo?




They are all in 12 inch wide pots with plenty of depth and I am going to water only when the leaves droop

I will keep an eye on the bottom leaves re yellowing

I will feed as per the bottles instructions...Doff Tomato Feed

I am a Luddite so no to the photo at the moment

rasberries - I had a cane at the back of my flower bed and now they are massive and have tripled if not more in size. What to do?? I have no space designated for them but would hate to waste them next yearHi wow do you divide and what do i do. Will they grow in something else??

they fruionion last years growth and they are fruiting now. Any help would none grateful as my partner loves them but they are against a fence under conifers and are swamping the flower bed so I have strapped them back. 


NewBoy2 wrote (see)

I am a Luddite so no to the photo at the moment

You don't seem to be afraid of a computer, which is much more technical than a camera! Go on, be a devil, give it a try!


Red Dahlia. I have an escaped raspberry, that tunnelled under a path and came up by the slabbed area next to the fence.  It has fantastic large berries on it so I left it and just tie it back to the fence. The little girl next door is diabetic and not allowed sweets, but she is allowed fruit so I let her help herself to the raspberries.

If yours is fruiting I would just feed it and keep it watered. It will be dry under the conifer but raspberries don't mind shade. If you want to move it do it late autumn. You have to cut the shoots down so you will lose next years fruit.

If you really like raspberries there are many new varieties, you could give them a designated bed.  Raspberries you grow yourself are so much nicer than those in tiny expensive punnets in the supermarkets.

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