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Hello - I'm in desperate need of some help. We're under attack.
June 2013 we had a garden that was full of 1m high weeds, the garden measured 16m x 10m. I purchase "Bayer Super Strength Glyphosate" and over 8 weeks gave the garden 2 sprays which killed off all of the weeds.
I then turned the soil in the garden and built it up by 3" using externally brought soil. I then laid Rolawn Medallion turf rolls.
Everything was fine until early Spring 2014 when a patch of the weeds (see pics attached) appeared in one area in the centre of the lawn. I brought some Roundup Gel and began applying it, after 6 weeks & 4 applications the weeds died off. However the Roundup Gel also killed patches of my lawn.
Within days of the weeds dying off, and we thought that was the end of it, we started to see more appearing all over the lawn. Now we have hundreds appearing, there everywhere. They're growing faster than the grass is, I left one grow on the outside of my lawn and the leaf grew to 12" before I dug it up.
I tried to dig one up by the roots, however it is so deep, they appear to becoming from the original ground level - below the 3" of soil I put down before laying the turf.
I'm really lost and not sure where to turn. Our lovely green lawn is turning into a bed of weeds.
Any expert advice appreciated.
You could try a 'selective ' weed killer, kills weeds not grass. Have a look on Amazon for Verdone then look at the reviews
Lyn thank you. This may sound like a really dumb question, is the weed we have in our garden a "Broad-Leaf Weed"?
Really heartbreaking, all that hard work and expense. Might I be allowed to explain. Even though many 'Total' weedkillers can be bought, including glysophate. Yes using them will knock back the weeds. In the case of annual weeds and lesser rooted perennials, usually the job is well done. However some of the stronger deeper rooted specimenn reall do require having the roots dug out and burned, not composted. As a simple explanation. Most weedkillers, herbicides claim that, the chemical is ingested by the plant, and is further absorbed down to the roots. Any contact with the soil, and the chemical becomes neutralised. Naturally most users will use common sense in applying these chemicals. As a kind of safeguard. The potent strength is very limited. Thus a weed having quite a tap root, manages to escape. The chemical does it's job down to a certain depth. Even though just a tiny part of root may remain. This will rapidly begin to grow. Plants such as Alkanet, which is really taking hold across the country, also Docks and some of the thistle family. The roots do need digging out. My advice is for a heavily infested area. Cut the plants down before they flower and set seed. Gather up and burn the waste. Then, although it is a backbreaking job. Dig the roots out and likewise burn. This will give you some time to ease up, but still be prepared for the odd enemy to appear again. Now. You say that you also imported soil and covered the lawn area to about three inches deep. Sorry my friend, but unbeknown to you. You may have unknowingly imported loads of weed seeds as well. In my own case. No joke. At one time, my garden was 100% weed free. Some weed seeds have blown in from next door's garden. However, when redesigning my garden. I imported loads of top soil. I now realise that a host of weed seeds came as free gifts, including the fungi earth balls. The solution. Please don't waste your money on more chemicals. Do your best to tackle this on a one to one basis. Mowing will of course keep weeds and grass down. So as not to damage your lawn too much. Get yourself an old carving or butchers knife. Locate each weed and an inch or two away from the center of growth, insert the blade well down into the soil, at a slight angle toward the plant. Then cut off the offending plant and remove. Long job, yes, but at the end of the day. It works.
Mike - thank you for taking the time to provide your advice. One question If the only way the weed can multiply is by flowering and seeding, is it possible to stop them multiplying by mowing so that they never get to that stage? then I only need to worry about the weeds that are currently there, in which case assume they are perennial weeds, are perennials for ever or do they loose strength over a number of years?
It is a broadleaf weed,but they are still small. Thing is you dont want to go cutting your grass short while we have this dry spell.
We use Westland Lawn feed, weed and moss killer, its taken every dandelion, daisy, plantain etc out, lovely lawn, , they may come back later in the year, use it again, then catch them again next April.
Once again, look at the reviews on Amazon.
You need to be careful when you apply it, if it gets on your flower borders, it will damage your plants.
All is not lost, just keep at it. The colour of the lawn is fantastic, almost sea green/blue, the more you can strengthen your lawn, the better it will be.
I have used others but find Westland the best.
just to add...I am no way connected with the Westland company, just swear by their products.
Lyn/mike - I really appreciate both of you taking the time to give your advice. I'm going to start with the weed killers that can be used on lawns and then move onto the more significant approach of digging them up at the roots if it doesn't work.
Looks like what you have growing is a plant called Anchusa, and it has notoriously long tap roots. A selective weedkiller suitable for lawns will soon see it off though, plus the process of mowing will weaken it too.
Early days Tony. I know it's disappointing when you've done all the prep and you feel you should have a green sward with no trace of weeds anywhere, but grass is an ongoing job. Lyn's right - a weed and feed will get rid of most of the weeds but you'll always get some seeding in from elsewhere so you just have to keep up the maintenance. If it's any comfort - I moved into this house just over a year ago. The front grass was mainly weeds. It had a feed which encouraged the grass, followed by a weed and feed, and the grass was in good heart after that. It's had another application this spring and will get a liquid seaweed feed soon just to give it a boost as it's been very dry. There are very few weeds in it now, and while it isn't a bowling green, it's nice and green and healthy.
Mine the same FG.
Please dont try to dig them out, Tony, if you break the taproot, and you probably will, you will have twice as many.
I'd paint the leaves with glyphosate, mow the lawn normally and wait for results, although it might take several summers.
I never really find that works very well, it usually leaves some scar on the grass, and a yellowing plant which d
oesnt look nice. Better to feed the lawn to get it really lush, it will take over from the weeds.
I think what you have TonyD is Hawkweed. The orange is looking very pretty at the moment but it is spreading fast through this country. It has airborne seeds like a dandelion clock.
Hope this link will help you sort it out. Let us know how you get on.
Noxious weeds: Hawkweed.
I think it might be worth letting one of these grow to see what you are dealing with.
It also spreads with a creeping root system. We have learned to love it in our garden...it will die down and re-appear next year. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
I think the leaves are too grey/blue for that one and too white on the back of the ones that are curled round.
I was actually thinking of growing this, just last week until i realised that it was every where. It has a outstanding orange colour but does not last long (about 2 weeks) before it goes to seed and it is doing that right now up here. This is the first year that i have really noticed it. Strange how they creep up and then take over.
You have to be very careful, I agree. I'm still having trouble identifying from the picture - looks a bit like alkanet or comfrey, in which case a bit of short-term yellowing will be worthwhile!
Another advantage of letting them grow on, apart from ID, is the extra leaf area to absorb whatever you use to deal with them.
Hello all - I applied some Verdone Extra on Monday morning at 8am As suggested. how long should it take before I see some results? More importantly when can I cut the grass again?