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25/05/2013 at 23:16

Update - a while back i questioned about erecting a 6 x 10 ft glass greenhouse - sitting it on breezeblocks to give it extra height..and also not wanting a 'step in' instead extending the length of the door etc..

I received some very helpful replies from various members.

I have now laid to rows of breezeblocks ( med - high density ) laying them flat and crucially..hopefully..all square and level!

My question is this...I want to bolt onto the breezeblocks ( once cement is dry etc ) the 'aluminum?' base which the greenhouse came with. Realise I dont have to do this and could attach frame straight onto my level breezeblock wall..but seeing as the whole point was to add height may as well use the base.

So - How do I attach the base to the breezeblock wall? Can I simply...drill?? into the aluminum base ( easy? ) and raw plug the breezeblocks? Any ideas? best...strongest method ? Any particular screw??  a normal..wall rawplug...?

The greenhouse came with...along with typical complicated instructions!!... 6 metal..I call them 'spikes' but just metal pieces...which....im guessing i should..if i could of..cement/stuck into the ground. Annoyingly the metal 'spikes' are for the corners...so..in effect...as Im not going to be using them..I still HAVE TO cut the metal 'spikes' in order to use the piece with the 2 screw holes which are needed as corners for the base. I mean all this..because..Im not 100% thats what they are for? Any thoughts? Came in the base box, 6 metal 'pieces' about 12 inches..cornered..so clearly meant for the corners of the base -..so..do i just cut these?

Final..final question..quickie if you know the answer..cutting aluminum. Not just the unwanted portion of the 'spikes/metal pieces' but part of the Base where the door goes etc..as..mentioned..i dont want a step in..so a 2 ft portion needs to go. A little saw do the job?

Thoughts..musings...answers...more than welcome. Thanks for your times. Waiting on breezeblock wall to dry out before i start next stage..and yes..have taken photos to share..once all up and level etc etc

26/05/2013 at 09:05

I cut aluminium with the appropriate blade on the jigsaw.

26/05/2013 at 10:23

The spikes are to go into the ground either in soil or concreted in. You could still use them by drilling out appropriate holes in the breezeblocks then making up a fine grade concrete filling then fitting spikes in. I would be more tempted to cut them off and use screws and rawl plugs every foot or so. 2" screws will be fine. Regards to the door, is it on hinges? Or does it slide? If it slides does it not require the 'step' for it to be correctly supported and guided when closing? If it's hinged, then you will essentially be leaving that '2 ft portion' as a hole? What's your plan to keep it sealed?

The step is a pain granted, but if you have the space how about making a gradual ramp of maybe 3 or 4 foot up to the lip of the frame? It would be very gradual and there's no step and less headache than cutting the frame up! Also not sure what that will do to the stability, the greenhouse gets it's strength from the box frame at it's base, which you plan to compromise. Think very carefully before cutting the frame, there's no going back !!!!

Hope I've helped you have a few more thoughts. Oh, I have a dremel so I use that to cut aluminium. How ever I'm sure a fine toothed hacksaw blade would do as well. Wouldn't recommend a junior hacksaw, you'll be there for weeks! Good luck and let us know how you get on.

26/05/2013 at 15:02

Brummie, what is a dremel please?

26/05/2013 at 15:49

It's a brand of small tools set with a motor and a large number of different tools you can attatch to it. Small, so you can easily hold it, but not suitable for very big works - good for the aluminium as suggested I shoudl imagine. 

26/05/2013 at 18:50

Thank you

26/05/2013 at 21:35

Brummieben, thank you for you reply..and keeping this thread alive!! The two high breezeblock wall is still drying out..and intend on painting it..but this time next week I should have my greenhouse up and running!

Now - you mentioned about the greenhouse gets its strength from the...base? the frame?...naturally this is a worry...would be very intrested to hear from anyone else regarding this..as you mentioned...once I cut the base and the thinner alminumin frame where the door ( sliding door ) goes..well..thats it..so to speak...cant go back.

I know..next to nothing about construction..would surely...the thin strip where the door goes..surely that isnt going to give the greehouse strength...i mean...IF i secure the base...screw it in...as much as possible..and yes i also thought about inserting some of the 'spikes' into the breezeblock and then cementing them in... but surely...once the actual frame is placed on top of the base...it will be as secure as anything..ok..so theres a 2 foot gap missing...thoughts MORE THAN WELCOME.

I have it in my head to do this..ive left a gap for the door..i dont want a step in..period! ...I know..more fool me!!

A DREMEL...should I be buying this tool? to cut the ..base etc? Will check fine toothed hacksaw.

So..any thoughts again...re attaching the base to the breezeblock wall...do i simply drill into the base? easy to do....or not? and aside from a few spikes I may try to cement in...for a start the front of the greenhouse is going to sit exactly on the very edge of the beezeblock wall..hase too because of the sliding door etc..so...shall i rawplug it as well in places?

Once again all thoughts more than welcome..and very intrested to know others thoughts about comprimising the structure if i cut a gap for the door.

THANKS

26/05/2013 at 21:45

garjobo, can you upload some photos? My builder and I put up a greenhouse last spring, so I know a tiny bit; but other people who know more would be able to help, I think, if they could see what is happening.

26/05/2013 at 23:37

Photos taken - still to upload however - at the moment its just a wall..so wouldnt be of much help i dont think..saying that...i will tomorrow upload a photo.

Essentially, a breezeblock wall, 2 high ( laying flat ), have measured and left a gap for where the door will be.

The base will laying on top of the breezeblock wall, roughly laying in the middle of the breezeblock..apart from at the front ( because obviously it needs to be level with the front for the sliding door to slide ) .

So, all I'm asking is...(a) Will cutting 2 ft of the base and 2ft of the thin alminum frame ( for the door ) weaken the structure?

(b) What shall I use to bolt down the base onto the breezeblocks? Tempted to drill a big hole an insert/cement a few of the 'spikes'. Also have to rawplug??? the base into the wall. Ok to do that?? Do I simply drill through the aluminum base? Doesnt appear to be any pre-drilled holes.

Will worry about lengthing the sliding door/sealing it/ makng a make-shift slider..another time. Main concern is cutting this base/frame. ( and any decent tool to cut alminum??

Thanks again.

26/05/2013 at 23:53

garjobo, do you know anyone who works in metal, I think aluminium people are called 'tig welders' then you could get them to make a 'U' shaped piece to accommodate the base of the new door frame, OR you could buy the appropriate profile of shaped alli and cut and bolt it yourself? This is all a bit guess worky without seeing pics or a diagram.

27/05/2013 at 02:21

At the moment my main concern is bolting base to breezeblock and cutting the alminum esp the base section. 

Re the doorframe and contacting tig welders etc..thats all out of my league and budget im afraid! I will mess about with the door iteself/extend etc

 

27/05/2013 at 08:02

Hi garjobo. I have a greenhouse same size as yours, also on breeze blocks.  Wasn't brand new, as I had it at a previous home. I just used battery drill, as greenhouse over 150 ft from a mains supply, and drilled holes every about 18 inches apart, through the aluminium base, then changed drill bit to a masonry drill of equal size. You can purchase screws and raw plugs together as an item, (dont know the correct term) from most DIY stores. Now all you do is insert raw plug and screw together into hole, and tap in using a hammer. No screw driver needed.

I have a sliding door, and this step, but as it is part of the frame, would never consider removing the step. Greenhouse been in this location some 20 years now, and just got used to the step. Yes can be a pain at times especially when removing huge flower pots and unable to see where one places ones feet, but with practice, no problem. Hope this may be of use.

27/05/2013 at 08:21

I don't have any experience of greenhouses but I've done a fair bit of building stuff and that sounds a good solution sky runner. I have some 'bolts' which were used in abundance at the last house I was in which also might be useful and you get them from B&Q. They're about two inces and you knock them in and screw home. They had been used on roofs and for shelves and all sorts!

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w595/fairygirl55/P5270835_zps52e93abc.jpg

 

27/05/2013 at 22:20

Thanks Skyrunner/Fairygirl for replyies. Glad to hear Sky that not just me then wanting to heighten te greenhouse.

Ok..so easy enough to screw/bolt down the base. I suppose my own real question then is...How big an issue would it be for me t cut the base/frame where the door currently would sit?

I mean..seriously..will this really weaken the structre ? End of the day the doorway itself divides up the greenhouse doesnt it...a thin strip of aluminim wouldnt really effect the overal structure of the greenhouse would it?

I will take also be using a hacksaw to cut the base etc..wish me luck. APPRECIATE any replies...before I set about an 'destroy' my new greenhouse! ...thanks.

28/05/2013 at 08:25

Hi garjobo & Fairygirl.

hopefully this time my post wil actually send, as last evenings with images failed somewhere in the ether, after leaving me, incl images.

These are the items I used. Purchase as a pair, in various lengths, and in multiple packs. Initially drill hole in wood, metal, etc, then same size masonary drill into concrete, etc. Push raw plug into the hole, place srew in as well, then using "impact engineering" eg, hammer, tap in the screw, until flush with the metal, wood, etc. the raw plug, will also be flush with this surface, due to the slightly larger dia at the head end.

atb. J 

 

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/24164.jpg?width=270&height=350&mode=max

 

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/24165.jpg?width=270&height=350&mode=max

 

28/05/2013 at 08:59

yes seriously it will weaken the structure

28/05/2013 at 09:12

It would weaken it but if you continue the door frame struts down to the ground and firmly fix them to your wall and join them at ground level you should be OK. Bit of an engineering project for you garjobo.

Does that make sense? I know what I mean 

 

28/05/2013 at 09:22

Not sure re seriously weaken structure?

I've had this greenhouse since 1984, has been to two homes, and moved twice in this present home, and erected same way each time, using same holes in the base.  Still standing.

 

28/05/2013 at 10:13

sky runner i think you misunderstood my post, i meant it would not be  a good idea to cut lumps out of a new greenhouse it will surely weaken the structure

28/05/2013 at 10:58

Hi Little-Ann. 

Yes, sorry, my mistake. Certainly agree that removing any part of the base, which is part of the integral structure, could well cause issues later.

thanks for the correction.

J

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