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Can you force rhubarb that is less than a year old?
i have been told you can not eat your first crop of rhubarb you have to wait untill your next crop is is true please help ?
why do you need to force rhubarb??????
yes i agree with you kynanbytes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yes I've been wondering how to do that although its very early to do it now this is very useful


if I force my rhubarb will I get another crop the same year ?
Yes i have been doing it for years. a good tip is to use cat manure as it still has alot of unused protein in it which helps with young rhubarb crops. try avoid using it on other plants around the garden though as it could do more harm than good.
What causes rhubarb to be " stringy " ?
The rhubarb under our forcer is very pale, almost white and doesn't have a lot flavour. Should we remove the forcer for a while before picking it?
I have had trouble from slugs and snails over the past few HUNDRED YEARS!! eating my rhubarb - so i end up with nothing, this year i got three plants and only one has survived !!! YEY.. i was told that i only pick a couple of stems this year as not to stunt the growth for next year... I want to keep it and look after my beauty but am always worried about it, can we have a more in depth care section about a particular plant every month?
Very useful advice for yearly cultivation! I've enjoyed a full year of superb,rich and bitter sweet
rhubarb after many months of little sun and chronic rainfall! But it is a tough plant and full of flavour!!No need to force growth...
When do you finish 'forcing' ?. How do you know when to take off the covering ?
I planted out 3 crowns of rhubarb last year, and like a good girl I didn't cut any stems- thought I was tempted! I got given another 3 crowns last autumn ( a friend's father has a huge patch of the stuff) and am experimenting with forcing it. I put them in a dumpy bag of leaf mould until I saw signs of growth. I have a dalek type compost bin in which I keep old pottig compost I beefed the contents up a bit with cluck muck and home made compost, and plonked them in that. They're growing away quite happily in the gloom, and I hope to be able to cut a few early tender spears in the next week or so. the garden ones are showing signs of growth too, but are weeks behind the others. I'll compost the forced crowns when they've done their bit - but noting the problems that other posters have had with slugs, I'll pop out now and sprinkle in some pellets.
I planted a whole packet of rhubarb seeds in different places in the garden. The only success is 3 that have grown in a l ltr pot. They have produced stems and leaves over the summer. Can you please advise whether to plant in the open garden or keep in pots. Many thanks

You can't make  it do what it doesn't want to do..........


"avoid forcing a single crown of rhubarb for two years in a row."

does this apply to a transplanted mature crown? I was recently given such a plant by a neighbour.
Thank you.

Any type of 'forcing' will weaken a crown.  The only reason to do it is to get an earlier crop at the expense of using up the stored energy in the crown.  I was originally done in areas where they grew thousands of crowns so they could use a proportion for forcing each year (to extend the season - ie for making money!) which, when exhausted, would be replanted and left to grow for a few years to build-up the crown again while being cropped normally.  Unless you have several rhubarb plants growing I think forcing is a waste of time for the home gardener.


Are we talking about 'proper' forcing, i.e. digging up the crown and exposing the root to frost, then taking it into a warm darkened shed to produce pink rhubarb?


are we talking about placing a forcing pot or chimney/bucket over a crown of rhubarb growing in the garden to blanch the rhubarb which is produced only a short while earlier than normal?

I do the second every year with a mature crown, but I don't pull any rhubarb after the end of May/early June - this way the crown builds up again before the winter and is not damaged.


I was assuming the former Dove.  I think what you do is quite a common method of keeping it tender and, as you say, getting a slightly earlier crop.