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Blueboing101 wrote (see)
Ive had great success from baby yellow plum varieties keeping as little leaf growth and shots as possible and growing runners out on string. has given me very good crops off each plant. But little success from larger varieties my plants seem to end up stunted and with only two or three on it by the end of the summer, any idea's what I could be doing wrong I feed with a branded tomato food as stated and use the same grow bags which contain seaweed. I cant get why the cherry type varietys go mad but I struggle else where. Thanks in advance for any advice
Not sure what you mean by keeping as little leaf growth as possible. The plants need leaves for photosynthesis. You might get away with reduced photosynthesis for smaller varieties but larger ones need as much goodness as they can get from photosynthesis.
cbteddies wrote (see)
This is going to sound silly but - I grow tomatoes from seed in greenhouse when all crop has been picked do you get rid of all of the tomato or do you keep the remaining plant perhaps cutting back for the following year? I've also started fresh each time?
Start afresh each year-it is just not worth the effort to try and overwinter old plants -compost them.
I agree with Geoff - start afresh each year
Pam LL x
Newleaf wrote (see)
Which is the fruiting branch?? I'm scared to pinch out bits of plants in case it's the wrong bit! My tomatoes are in smallish pots - how big a pot should I use?
How small is "smallish"?
As to "fruiting branches"-they are the ones that produce the flowers- along the stem
What variety are you growing?-then more advice can be offered
Yep, varieties would help. Some produce flowers (hence fruit) on branches off the stem, some produce them on the stem itself. You can generally tell by the miniature growths that will eventually become flowers.
I am watching Monty's tomato experiment with great interest and can't wait to see the best growing method. A little tip I learnt last year was to cut off the bottom of a small spring water plastic bottle and plant it upside down when you pot the tomato plants, this way the water reaches the roots quickly with no evaporation. I also apply my liquid feed this way.
hi robert lewis i pinch out on gardeners delight but i mjust admit am getting small toms at mo i thinkiing of leaving from now
Pinching out side shoots applies to indeterminate varieties - aka cordon varieties, varieties that aren't bush varieties - in general. The type of fruit - cherry, beefsteak, whatever - doesn't matter. GD is an indeterminate variety so it's best to pinch out the side shoots.
Pinching out - or not pinching out - side shoots has no impact on the size of the fruit you get. Size is determined by genetics and, to an extent, growing conditions. The reason you pinch out side shoots is to control the size of the plant and the number of growing tips. Most side shoots will develop into a growing tip. The rule of thumb is that indeterminate toms do best with two growing tips.
Last year I grew tomato plants in the greenhouse. They turned into monsters and the fruit was horrible. It was only at the end of the season I reread the plant feed. Dilute a capful in however many litres of water it was. I'd somehow confused the instructions with another plant feed I was using. I was giving the plants a capful of feed direct to the base of the plant. Weekly. Always read the label then reread. Lol.
Flicksie, Epsom Salts are only useful if there's a magnesium deficiency. If you're using a decent potting mix it won't be a problem. Best not to feed with anything at this early stage.