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29/04/2012 at 12:39

It would appear that I have at last had success with lavender cuttings after many failures.  I took these latest cuttings last year.

When tearing off the cutting from the plant, the heel can sometimes have a longish tail of bark attached.  This won't produce roots and could encourage rotting.  It is this outer layer which should be cut off cleanly.  Inside there is the lighter core which contains the cells which can become roots.  Try to avoid damage to this area by squashing or bruising.  There is a higher concentration of root producing cells at junctions between stems,  and in the outer layer of the 'inner' stem, which is why we tend to expose this area when attempting cuttings (or grafts).

I used a very light compost with added grit to open it up.  I only wanted to take a few cutting from a new plant so put them in individual pots.  I used the clear plastic 'cups' you gets with ice cream cones as mini propagators.  These make it easy to check the cuttings and dry the inside if by chance it looks too wet.  I carefully tipped one out after a few weeks as they appeared to be putting on top growth but there was hardly any root development so repotted it and have left them all for a few months more.  I have kept them in an unheated greenhouse throughout and have been careful to keep them on the dry side.  I now have very tiny, mini lavender bushes definately putting on top growth, but will keep them in a controlled environment until I can rely on the weather and they are not shocked.  Had I rooted them all in the same pot I would have grown them on individually before planting out.

With regard to Standards, these may well be grafted onto the stems of entirely different plants - though I haven't check them out. 

Cherrypip:    It is my understanding that cuttings of licensed varieties, taken for your own use are ok.  Just don't sell them.  Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

I hope my experience helps with all of the above queries.  My neighbour tells me she takes lavender cuttings easily, but must say, although I have had success with lots of different plants, Lavender has always been a problem.

29/04/2012 at 13:28

I planted some white lavender in my 'white garden' last year and trimed it back in the autumn. As I can never dispose of a potential cutting I tidied  up about 8 shoots (semi-ripe, - thats when the bottom bit of the stem is more woody than green but still pliable, for you new to this stuff   ),  that had not yet flowered, about 3 inches or so, and put 4 around the edge of a 5" pot, and put them in the window of a cold room, out of sun over winter.  i don't think it's the best time to take cuttings but i thought i could either compost them now or later and there is not much to look forward to in the coming months. About half of them took, i dont think i got the watering right, - I neglected to water and then soaked them,- but surprisingly got 3 plants potted up by January, lost 2 but 1 has survived!!  So give it a go novices, expect to loose 90% of your cuttings so when you succeed with 50% you'll be proud of your skills and pass plants on to your friends.  

10/08/2012 at 15:40

Last year I simply popped a lot of lavender off-cuts into patches of bare soil in a corner of the garden, and now I have at least 50 small lavender plants.   I simply took some healthy looking pieces 3-4 inches long from when I cut back the lavender bed.  I think about 75% must have rooted.  I simply couldn't be bothered with pots and compost etc and would probably have forgotten to water them anyway.  The 'cuttings' rooted in two different types of soil - edge of rockery and damp and shady.  Really easy.

10/08/2012 at 21:51

I have grown quite a few lavender plants from seed this year.  I followed a propagation tip I read, which was to put the seeds onto a piece of wetted kitchen paper in a container (I used a small square plastic box from Lakeland but anything would do) and put them in a cold (almost freezing but not quite) part of your fridge for at least 2 weeks, checking to make sure they remain moist.  We have a second fridge in our cellar which is only opened about once a day, so this wasn't a problem.  After the chilling period you sow the seeds in a tray of compost as normal.  We had very good results from lavenders Munstead & Hidcote, but Elegance Sky had a lower germination rate and the seedlings seemed more susceptible to dieback etc.  I still haven't mastered the propagation from cuttings method, but I daresay I shall keep persevering.

03/08/2013 at 16:25
I actually tried this last year but didnt use a rooting hormone---following Monty's tips---& I now have 4 little plants growing happily in the garden AND flowering; hopefully they'll grow larger over time.
03/08/2013 at 19:34

Suggest using the soft wood cutting technique, then leaving them around 8 weeks  in a storageage  type see thru box with a lid that you can check on regularly. Water moderately leave in a cool shady place outside, and then pull one gently and if you feel a resistance it may have rooted. The secret may be to take loads so that one or two can be sacrificed. Suggest gritty well driaining  compost and do not overwater. Would be interested to hear any success.

15/08/2013 at 08:31

I have JI compost 1,2,3 which one would you use and would you use pearlite to aid drainage also It’s advisable to change your bag or turn it inside out every now and again to help prevent mould/mildew is it advisable to use rooting powder or will this rot the rosemary/lavender?

 

James 

15/08/2013 at 09:26

..I would definitely add perlite, if you have it, to the JI.. personally I don't like JI on it's own, it's far too heavy... I use 2/3rd's horticultural grit to 1/3 rd JI for my cutting mix for Lavenders... mine have all rooted and I've just potted on, this time using half and half JI/Grit...   also I don't cover my fresh cuttings with plastic bags, just leave outside in cool shady spot.. won't work with everything but Lavenders seem ok this way... cuttings taken in July...

15/08/2013 at 09:34

In July wow that was a hot Month.

I've just made some compost up No1 Ji with 50/50 hsand but I will wait untill my perlite comes in the post I have 9lt coming from ebay

12/09/2013 at 11:08
Hi Adam, I look after a nursing home garden which has soon beautiful lavenders in. I have taken alot of seeds recently to try and grow some next spring, but I was also thinking of taking some cuttings this week ( September) , is it too late to take then how do I care for them over the winter.
12/09/2013 at 11:14

Having read a bit more of your article i realise i am in the time span for taking the cutting, will read through the other posts to see if I can find an answer to my other  question. 

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/30912.jpg?width=512&height=350&mode=max

 

 

12/09/2013 at 12:20

It's not made clear in the article, but was pointed out in another article about taking cuttings of another plant elsewhere, that the plastic bag shouldn't touch the leaves. This would trap water between leaf and bag and that leaf would rot, and the rot would spread. With the slender leaves of lavender this may not be as much of an issue, and with them being tiny cuttings a sandwich bag may well stand over them without touching anyway, but I was taking cuttings of "Late Dutch" honeysuckle and they were a bit bigger than that, so I added five half-length canes around the pot to tent the bag and keep it off the leaves.

There's a balancing act with cuttings and water: they need to stay moist, and they're losing water through their leaves, but if they're in wet soil their bases rot. The plastic bag is there to trap moisture in the air around them, increasing humidity and reducing evaporation, so they don't dry out despite being in dry enough soil to inhibit rotting. I added a little plastic dish (the lid off a Nutella jar, actually) of water on top of the soil to raise humidity without wetting the soil.

You could, if you're not the organic gardening type, treat the cuttings with fungicide before inserting them in the soil. One of those ones that claims to protect for a few weeks ought to buy them time to set roots or die trying before they have to fight.

12/09/2013 at 13:15

Lavendar cuttings are,usually very easy.  Most of them root.  Took loads today for a friend.

Mpc with perlite.....50/50......cuttings about 3 or 4" lomg today, pinch off soft tips, water well and put in unheated propagator in the GH.   Threw some fleece over the propagator.  I will check on them again next week or so.  I would expect 80% to root.

I dont stick to a strict routine......for me at home I use a small pot with,polythene bag.....and it does vary a little according to season  and to type of season. (very hot, or humid or cool) as to what I actually do

Penstemon cuttings enjoy similar treatment, as do santolina, artemisia Powys castle, etc which were all done today too

12/09/2013 at 15:29

All sounds pretty good will  try tboth both Verdun......will be potting up the cuttings at the nursing home and will bring them back here.....some can go in my little green house ( and I mean little...it's on my balcony). and I think I will put some on my window cill and see how they go. Thanks.

 

22/08/2014 at 10:26
Will Lavender root without a rooting hormone? If not where can I get some from and are there any rooting hormones that anyone can recommend?
22/08/2014 at 10:48

I tried cutting with rooting powder and they didnt take but last week I was tidying up some lavender bushes and notice four little plants had taken root in the gravel drive.  I carefully pulled them up and have planted them in a pot filled with ordinary potting compost.  Im leaving them outside for now and will move them into the GH for the winter (not heated) and just see how they go.  If you want to try rooting powder they sell it at most GCentres.

22/08/2014 at 11:40
how do you prune the lavender
22/08/2014 at 11:43

I just cut back most of the green growth but dont go back into the hard wood.  If you do that its unlikely that new growth will be prduced.

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