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any advise for next years carrot please ours was a disaster this year looking for sweet and they dont have to be big, please

In what way were they a disaster? Germination problems? Carrot root fly? What kind of soil are you growing in? Do you grow in containers. We can't fix the problem if we don't know what the problem is.

up to 3 years ago the allotment was a field and although we bought in about 12 ton top soil we had blight,so did the other allotmenteers 50% lost crop to wire worm, and what was left in the 3 types of spud were huge scab infested ,the rest went to water when in the pan ,But this year new village new allotment ,new house, hence new carrots also we think the 4 ton of manure was not so good all who had it were disappointed as well,so a nice carrot to try please i think i might start them in the greenhouse toilet roll way if you think thats a good idea or no

I would say sand not fertiliser and sow direct and thin not toilet roll. I love the Nantes varieties and also I have tried Trevor and maestro. If you want a winter carrot I am trying giant flakk.


my carrots were dire year one in new soil so I'm not attempting it again in my bed. I have a seperate bed that has spent compost and sand mixed in to lighten soil and lower fertiliser as fertile soil promotes lots of top and smaller carrots I have been told. 

I grow pretty good carrots.  I have a good sandy loam....perfect for carrots.  However, they need good nutrient level, stone free and manure free soil and protection from carrot fly.

Ideally manure the previous year, dig deeply and remove stones and aim for fine lump free soil.

I have tried all kinds of carrots including the latest new and expensive hybrids.  I believe though the best taste comes from carrots grown quickly without a check in their growth.  So. Watering in dry spells.  This year I grew the bog standard Amsterdam forcing amd early Nantes and they are sweet, (now) large and healthy.

No, I wouldnt start them off in the GH.  I suggest you prepare the soil well and thoroughly adding an organic fertiliser like fish blood and bone.  sow thinly but thin out when 1" or so high and again when about 2" high to about .1" to 2" apart.  Water after each thinning.  Cover with fleece to protect agai st carrot fly.  You should have good carrots.


right a sandyish loam and deepish,no manure,direct sowing ,thinning as advised and a bitotlc and bobs your uncle,that is now in the allotment file, and many thanks for that already i see a few things i did wrong Cheers all
Alan in Tenby and rain again

Saying that my dad has routine and his carrots are dire this year and mine were fab. Sometimes stuff seems to just go right or wrong I am learning!!! Parsnips this year have not germinated well at all!!! Disappointing as I spent a little more on pelletted seed do I could space nicely at my farthers! 

anyone else have opinions on pelleteted seed???

We are in the lap  of the gods when growing anything.....the weather, pests, diseases etc.  however, certain rules still apply......good fertile, stone free soil for carrots, richly manured Soil for runner beans, etc.. etc.  try to grow these two crops in the wrong soil and you will certainly have poor results.

Pelleted seed is not worth it.  Time taken to properly sow the seed, then to thin is good practice that doesn't really take that much time.  You can still sow pelleted seed incorrectly....I.e too deep, too shallow....and germination is never guaranteed.

We need to understand what each crop needs to be able to grow them well......this year I completely re-evaluated my old ways of growing tomatoes,for example, (advice on the forum helped this) and my crop was been superb amd the plants themselves very healthy.  

Verdun your posts are always so intriguing. Are you a hobby gardener or is it a profession?

this year I saved some seed from a piccallo Tom but also bought 6 gardedead delight. Me being me I ended up with 6 delight and 6 piccallo filling my greenhouse. It was like a jungle so I kept taking out shoots and reducing leaves and they were forming brill trusses. But all green and not ripening. I moved the buckets out of my green plastic greenhouse and stood against the house wall and they were ripening within a week. 


My mum cursed me telling me that shouldn't be taking shoots and leaves off the g delights. Yet I got larger crops than her and the same on my piccallo vs the ones I gave her! So I still don't know if I was lucky or silly. It's was petersfield general purpose compost in a normal black bucket and I fed once a week after first fruit set.


shall I do that again next year or learn a different way to deal with tom's. I loved every minute of collecting the seed, splitting from pulp, drying, germination and then potting on 50 to keep and give away. Maybe I was lucky as again I could have easily collected duff seed!! 

Hiya red dahlia

Just a passionate plantsman.  Like to grow,things as well as possible.  Used to propagate and sell plants as a hobby though.

So, you're in competition with your mum.,!!

Italophile is the tomato guru here.  To assist ripening I do remove leaves,progressively  throughout the summer until almost every leaf had gone two weeks ago. ,just tomatoes ripening very fast on bare stems now.  Any yellowing leaves should be removed...they no longer perform,any function. Thereafter I remove leaves covering any trusses and then any,leaves below trusses.  I keep foliage absolutely dry ...except for the occasional feed or tonic spray.  and I try not to overwater too

It's addictive. I took cuttings about 8 weeks ago and they are all potted on into 9cm pots and in a bread tray to overwinter I hope. I have 40 lupin plants in the greenhouse potted on about 3 weeks ago. 


I have perennials just peaking thru the compost from seed. I also have 500 self collected pansy seeds and they are frantically growing to come out for winter interest.


except I have no idea what I'm going to do with my plants that I'm overwintering, replace losses maybe or put a stall at the end of the drive!? Never overwintered perennials in pots, so unsure if the foliage will die off or I should be trying to keep them going. 

Stall sounds good red dahlia

Depends on what you,mean by"perennials"........there are evergreens and there are herbaceous perennials. Herbaceous perennials die down soon....many have already started to do that......and you leave them to do that. They are usually,tough and hardy too.   However, some wimter protection is advisable unless in biggish pots.  Greenhouse, cloches, polythene suspended over them, fleece,,etc.  it's all a learning process. Oh, although things like,dahlias are "herbaceous" these are also "tender" so keeping frost away is essential.  You need to know which plants are truly hardy and which are not

the perennials are fuschia, geyser, scabiosa, lythrum, coreopsis. Soon I will move the bread tray into my greenhouse, I'm just struggling for room as I keep planting!!! My dahlias I will lift after first frost then dry off and store in my conservatory till spring.

i love talking to real gardeners rather than just reading magazines!!!! 

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