Register with us or sign in
in Tools and techniques
Having read some of the previous threads already, I'm still undecided on what would be best with regards the base for my planned greenhouse. It will be approx 12'x9' and a cedar construction. Would you recommend all paving, or part paving, part gravel with a paving perimeter? Or is there something else I should consider?
It depends what you want to do with it. Mine is aluminium on an aluminium base which is concreted in. I kept half of it earth to plant into. Paving is good for where the potting bench and shelves are as it's easy to keep clean.
Hi Potty Girl - Just upgrading my aluminium greenhouse for a cedar one. Replacing current part paved/part gravel base with a solid concrete base. One tip, if you have a solid concrete base, don't be tempted to seal it to keep it nice/look good as it won't be porous for water run-off or damping down. Enjoy your new greenhouse.
Hi Lesley cardiff,
If you put gravel over the concrete floor you'll be able to dampen down as the air between the concrete and gravel will help cause a moist air flow, ideal for very hot nights.
, Ive the full concrete floor, two reasons, (1) the greenhouse frame can be secured to this base and this along with the weight of the greenhouse & glass should keep it all solid in stormy weather,
(2) Ive found that when i had an open area inside the greenhouse ie soil /paving slabs that the winter heat was lost due to the ground being cold and wet and this caused the greenhouse to have this cold tempature,
When i bought my second greenhouse i concreted the complete area and secured the greenhouse to this base and sealed the base of the greenhouse to add heat retention "ie no little wind gaps (use the same seal as for sealing window frames DIY stores sell it in tubes)
I did make a channel down the centre of the greenhouse floor area for water to escape when i use a hosepipe for cleaning etc but when i did the base concrete i used a broom pole to make a hole near the door bottom area and i plug this,
when i do need to hose i just pull the wooden plug out and the water can be brushed out via this hole, re-plug and you've a secure floor area once again,
No mice etc can get into the greenhouse.
Now ref growing the like of tom's/cuucumber etc i use a bought deep trough, i can change the compost when needed and cover the top of the trough to make a good shelf for potted plants if needed,
The main cost of greenhouse use is the keeping it heated, if the floor lets cold in ?
then winter heating or early spring night heating can all be lost due to heat being reduced via a cold floor area,
You can bubble wrap the glass to help save heat,
But if you get the floor wrong what can you do to save heat ??? NOT VERY MUCH
hope this helps.
Good points from Smokin Donkey. I only use my GH from March when I start sowing in heated propagators, so warmth in winter isn't so much of a problem. I have a frame filled with sand with a heating cable in it which I put young tender plants in at night when it's cold.
But what about over wintering plants /shrubs etc that are not winter hardy ?
The greenhouse is the perfect place "if its frost free
Thank you everyone...I hadn't received email reminders that you'd all posted replies, and couldn't access the website yesterday! I really appreciate your advice, and some fantastic tips too!