Adam Young

Feeding Seedlings and Plug Plants

Plants are a bit like people in that some are more vigorous and fill out quicker than others, don't worry at this stage, it just depends on the genetic make up of the plant. If the parent plant was a gooden and it was propagated from that, then you'll have a strong grower, but, likewise, if it is from a not so good parent, I don't know, let's say like a Jeremy Kyle 'show parent,' then the chances are, it will be a bit more weedy and slow growing, though hopefully less promiscuous. Hang on, that's not right, they don't normally know who the parent is, but you know what I mean!

On a practical note, I would agree with not feeding seedlings and that seed compost is the best thing for them. Most compost mixes give enough nutrients for 4-6 weeks, after this time, assuming you've started with seed and cutting compost, you can then go on to potting on compost, which, again, will give another 4-6 weeks of nutrients. It's really important not to over feed them at the young stage. If you are going to use a liquid/granular fertiliser, then make sure it's a very weak solution, maybe 10 times weaker than for stronger plants. Nitrogen is used for leaf and root growth, so using that will help the early stages, but do make sure you then switch to a higher potassium one for flowering/fruiting plants, as you'll end up promoting foliage over flowers if you don't.

Vitopod Propagators

I have bought 2 different propagators. My first one is Bio Green's jumbo propagator with heat mat, mini staging, thermostat and polypropalene cover, which works brilliantly, though would be about the same price. The advantage over the vitopod one is that it already has plenty of head room, the down side is that the condensation runs down the covering and onto whatever surface it's on, mine being wood = mould, where as the vitopod one is encased and the condensation runs back to the tray, however, for the height of the Bio Green propagator, you'd have to buy another layer, which is not cheap at all. That said, even though I've got the Bio Green one, I can see that both are very much the Rolls Royce of the gardening world.

The second one I bought is from TwoWests and Elliotts, and it's the electric blanket with cover. This comes with polystyrene sheets, heat mat and thermostat, (feels better built than the Bio Green one) plastic protective covering, and a self assembly polycarbonate and metal casing unit. It is highly, highly, impressive and I think, will whip the other 2 for what you get.

The way I look at it, is that buying just a single heat mat, nothing else, and not even to the length of the Bio Green jumbo propagator, and certainly nowehere near the TwoWests electric blankets, will cost anything up tp £200, yet, for the same price or just £100 more (that's assuming you can stretch that far) you get so, so, much more, which in my eyes, though costs more, is more economical and so, so, much better. Honestly, the way this spring is going, I'm so happy I bought them. My cheaper propagators would see 2 foot high seedlings and no true leaves about now, and it has certainly saved money on heating as it's far more localised than heating a whole greenhouse to tropical temperatures.

This is what happens when.....

Don't see why this should be an issue, why not insert some small stakes to act as supports? You can always remove the smaller support once in grow bags and tie them to a bigger cane. Just make sure you have the bigger cane in place first in-case they snap. Worse thing that can happen now is a check in growth due to lack of heat, hardly a bad thing at this stage! Believe me, no one will be laughing when you've got tomatoes 2 months ahead of everyone else. Happy days!

Plants from cuttings

Reading-wise, which is the only way I have to learn as I don't really know any other gardeners, I can't recommend enough 'RHS, Plant Propagation, Kenneth A. Beckett' and 'RHS, Propagating Plants, Alan R. Toogood' are exceptional books. The Alan R. Toogood one is brilliant for the amount of pictures it has.

Plants from cuttings

Rosemary, so they say, is actually easier to grow from cuttings than from seed. Simply do as others have said with the above plants. Cut a decent stem off and pull down on the bottom half of the stem, stripping away the fragrant leaves. Dip the bottom (read somewhere you shouldn't dip too far as it can cause the stem to rot) in rooting hormone of some kind and insert into compost until it reaches the leaves.

One thing I would say is important with Rosemary cuttings is the compost mix. I feel they do better with equal parts seed sowing compost and vermiculite. They really do need good drainage as they like it fairly dry anyway. Always go for seed sowing compost as anything else may have too much nutrients in it and be too strong for the fledgling plants. Also, also, if you have bottom heat, such as a propagator/heat mat, this will always speed up the rooting time of cuttings as it draws the roots down. You'll know if it hasn't worked because they go all manky and horrible!

Do these grow through plants?

Thanks guys. I think based on advice, I'm not gona bother with Iris', Papavers or Glads. I'll make room for Bonariensis as it's more transparent, and I'll make room for Alliums, as the advice is they'll grow up through less vigorous plants.

Looking forward to May time when I can start planting up the beds. I've never grown in a garden bigger than 7', so am very excited, even if there is a lot of work involved, but hey, ait's all part of the fun! Cheers guys!!

Do these grow through plants?

Also, just to give you an idea of scale, the border is an 'L' shape, with one part 3.3m x 1.5m and 3.1m x 1.5m. They were going to be based on thirds at 1.2m, but I wouldn't have been able to use the space hungry Lupins, Digitalis or Delphs. As it is I'm gutted because I know I just can't fit in Acanthus Mollis Bears Breaches

Do these grow through plants?

Know what you mean about Glads, but thankfully there are enough varieties to match colours, etc. So Papavers - do they need their own space or will they grow through? I know about the life of the plant, as in short lived, dies back, can re-bloom if cut back to ground, but will eventually leave an empty hole. The point is, do I have to make room for them initially, or can they be planted right up against perennials when dormant? Hope I'm making sense

Do these grow through plants?

I'm going to grow stuff roughly 2/3 the recommended planting distance for non-sprawling plants, as I need to cram in the plants. But help is appreciated in knowing what can be grown through.

Geranium-wise, I'm going for a few, Rozzane, Splish Splash, Versicolour, Pratense Purple Haze, Rise & Shine, Buxton Blue & Oxonianum Pink Lace (obviously not all in the same border).

Papavers - Pink Fizz by T&M, Orientale Royal Wedding & Grape.

Irsis' - Haven't thought of any yet.

Gladioli - Yet to have a look, but figured they could be squeezed in due to their upright habit, though I realise they will look a little dis-jointed if dotted rather than grown en-masse.

Do these grow through plants?

Hi all,

I've just moved and am going to try and make a cottage style border in my garden, but I'm unsure of the growing nature of the following - Iris', Papavers, Verbena Bonariensis, Gladioli and Alliums. Do these plants require their own designated growing space, or will they compete and climb up through other plants? I really want to fill my borders up and would love to have these plants, but just don't know the habit of their growth.

Also, geraniums, do they only have a small crown? I thought they were more of a scrambler and didn't have much of a base, so wondered, when it says spread 45cm - 60cm, does this mean I shouldn't fill in the ground in between, or can I plant up against them and they'll grow over over plants?

Do these grow through plants?

Potted Lilly Companions Please