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Alan4711


Latest posts by Alan4711

Acer

Posted: 06/02/2014 at 10:04

Hi all, it seems pruning from Nov to early Feb is the guide from the RHS due to the bleeding, last year we saw a garden with 5 different varieties on a gentle twisting sloping  grass and rock garden difficult to explain but it was sort of dreamy and peaceful, lit up at night with lanterns it was just perfection, they seem to be in a class of there own just stunning,    

Acer

Posted: 05/02/2014 at 11:51

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=126    

Hi Kev, this is from R.H.Societry its full of advice for you.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING … .. …… .

Posted: 05/02/2014 at 11:28

HI Dove do you put flower on them ,somebody told me they do it or am i mixed up here, iv made a note of your spuds im going to go through them as roasties are my fav thing on the plate cheers miduck Alan

rhubarb

Posted: 05/02/2014 at 11:14

cheers Jess,i think im going to get a trio cus we do like a good crop and friends like crumble as well,these should do the trick, many thanks all.

rhubarb

Posted: 04/02/2014 at 14:34

right then a mix of sunshine, Victoria and timperley early, load of manure a couple o years crumble by the barrow load no worries,

cheers mi ducks,

morello cherry tree

Posted: 04/02/2014 at 14:19

Cherry Tree Morello 

RHS Award of Garden Merit.

Morello is the best sour cherry for growing in the UK.It will happily grow on a north wall or fence and still bear fruit. Crisp white Spring blossom is followed in August by the ripening of dark red ,acid cherries that are produced in abundance.

The cherries produced are a culinary gem, superb in jams ,preserves,pies ,sauces and alcoholic beverages.Morellos can be eaten fresh when really ripe but they do have a very sharp-sweet edge.

Although partially self fertile an additional pollinator will enhance the crops.

rhubarb

Posted: 04/02/2014 at 12:04

right,,, now we didnt bring any rhubarb with us so its a new ruby patch were doing,big and bold cus we love it, Right im, east coastal ,i know how to do it all but wot sort to start us off with,  basic or the new types that iv heard of ,has anyone got any tried and happy with ruby, name that rhubarb please hers hoping  Alan

Mystery foliage in gifted bouquet.

Posted: 04/02/2014 at 11:35

sometimes im sure im on a link with a load  o nutters, but its great

YORKSHIRE PUDDING … .. …… .

Posted: 04/02/2014 at 11:16

now then are they good or wot,we always do separate ones, and im convinced tried and tested that dripping is the best for yorkies better than any oil, were very lucky we have a real old fashioned butcher,makes his own scratchins , beef/pork dripping,and jelly for beefing up the gravy, but i would like to know wot makes the best type of roast spuds,,cant resist these smilies 

Which size tree?

Posted: 03/02/2014 at 11:27
Rootstock choice
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Images/blue_backtotop.gif

Apples

Name of rootstock: M27 (extremely dwarfing)
Suitable for: Dwarf pyramids, spindlebush or stepovers, for small gardens where the soil is fertile
Start fruiting: After two years
Ultimate height as trained as bush: Plants reach 1.2-1.8m (4-6ft) x 1.5m (5ft)
Growing conditions: Good weed and grass free soil. Water plants during drought. Unsuitable on poor soil and for weak cultivars
Staking: Permanently
Spacing: 1.2-1.5 (4-5ft) apart with 1.8m (6ft) between rows

Name of rootstock: M9 (dwarfing)
Suitable for: Bush, pyramid, spindlebush, cordons; an excellent stock for small gardens
Start fruiting: After two or three years
Ultimate height as trained as bush: 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) x 2.7m (9ft)
Growing conditions: Good weed and grass free soil. Water plants during drought
Staking: Permanently
Spacing: 2.4-3m (8-10ft) apart with 3.6m (12ft) between rows

Name of rootstock: M26 (dwarfing)
Suitable for: Bush, pyramid, spindlebush, cordon, espalier and is ideal for containers
Start fruiting: After two or three years
Ultimate height as trained as bush: 2.4-3m (8-10ft) x 3.6m (12ft)
Growing conditions: Average soils including grassed orchards
Staking: Permanently
Spacing: 2.4-3.6m (8-12ft) with 4.5m (15ft) between rows

Name of rootstock: MM106 (semi-dwarfing)
Suitable for: All forms except standards
Start fruiting: After three or four years
Ultimate height as trained as bush: 3-4m (10-13ft) x 4m (13ft)
Growing conditions: Tolerant of a range of soils including grassed orchards and poor soils. The most widely used rootstock, but unsuitable for small gardens.
Staking: 5 years; longer in exposed locations
Spacing: 3.6 (12ft) with 4.5m (15ft) between the rows

Name of rootstock: MM111 (vigorous)
Suitable for: standards and half standards
Start fruiting: After four or five years 
Ultimate height as trained as bush: 4-4.5 (13-15ft) x 4.5 (15ft) less on light soils
Growing conditions: Suitable for most soils including orchards in grass and on poor soils
Staking: Staking is not necessary if planted as a one year old but those planted as 2-3 year old trees need staking for the first 3 years
Spacing: 4.5m (15ft) apart with 6m (20ft) between rows

Name of rootstock: M25 (very vigorous)
Suitable for: Standards
Start fruiting: After five or six years
Ultimate height as trained as bush: +4.5 (15ft) x 6m (20ft)
Growing conditions: Most soils including orchards in grass and on poor soils. They are too vigorous for most gardens except where the soil is poor
Staking: Staking is not necessary if planted as a one year old but those planted as two- or three-year-old trees need staking for the first 3 years
Spacing: 6m (20ft)

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