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AndytheScientist


Latest posts by AndytheScientist

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rhubarb leaf problems

Posted: 26/05/2016 at 15:57

Is it like rust? Sometimes rhubarb leaves can get this, but you can just pull the stalk and get rid of those effected.


I've also sometimes had rhubarb stalks emitting sticky sap, which forms globules on the stalks that goes quite hard. This is just sap, that is leaking out when the stalk splits due to irratic growth/watering, and is usually weather related. The plant is still perfectly find and is safe to eat. 


Could also be related to the rhubarb weavil?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lixus_concavus

Last edited: 26 May 2016 16:02:08

lawn weeds

Posted: 26/05/2016 at 15:11

Could also be ground ivy which is even harder to get rid of by all accounts.


Could also be dovesfoot cranesbill. Which persists due to seeds in the soil so will take multiple seasons to get rid of it. 

lawn weeds

Posted: 26/05/2016 at 15:03

Sounds a bit like speedwell. If it is i'd use a weed and feed, but will most likely need multiple applications over the year. 

Last edited: 26 May 2016 15:06:02

Christmas Tree: How do I keep it alive?

Posted: 03/05/2016 at 15:23

Was it pot grown or containerized? There is a big difference, a pot grown tree has spent all it's time in a pot and will be used to it, and probably would only need to be potted on into something a bit bigger.

Most potted christmas trees are not container grown, instead they are grown in the ground, dug up, roots trimmed and stuck on a pot and shipped out for xmas. They are effectively like bare root trees. Alot won't survive long term but will survive over xmas. 

I would bet that it's a containerized tree rather than a pot grown, looking at the size of it. I would get it planted in the ground and cross your fingers if i was you. 

Raised vegetable beds

Posted: 14/03/2016 at 16:35

I have to say i'm becoming more selective on what i grow. To get a space in my plot it now has to offer superior flavour over what i can buy locally. So things like spuds, onions just are not worth it, parsnips may go the same way this year i'll decide. Either that or i'd rather devote space to high value produce that's expensive in the shops like soft fruit.

Other things i really like growing are carrots as they taste so good out the ground, broad beans, peas, beetroots, salad crops. Winter squash, leeks and broccoli, make the cut as they are so low maintenance, and you can grow much tastier varieties than those available commercially.

Then in the greenhouse toms, cucumbers, chilli's and peppers. I'm ditching melons from the greenhouse this year.

 

 

 

Hello

Posted: 07/12/2015 at 16:28

I'd agree with treehugger80 go for a fruit tree orchard. Most modern root stocks won't get more than 2-3m high, so no one can possible moan about them blocking light. Even larger trees like cherries on the commercially available root stocks will not get more than about 4M tall in 20 years time!

In a plot that size you could easily get few apples, a couple of plums, a cherry, couple of pears etc. Whatever floats your boat. 

Recentlyplanted apple tree very ill!!!

Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:25

I'd agree remove the fruit this year, if you really want to try an apple just leave 1 or 2 max.

Did you winter prune the plant after it was planted? Usually with 2 year old plants these should be pruned at planting time. I planted some 2 year old bare root apples/plums and pears this winter too, most had been pruned by the supplier before shipping but some still needed doing.

If the were not done I'd prune them back a bit now which will encourage growth further down the branches, and stop the branches getting too long and week.  Remember the branches need to be pretty thick and strong to hold fruit. 

Tomatoes

Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:14

I usually remove the lower 3rd of the plants leaves, this helps prevent them getting splashed when watering.

Later once i've got the 5th or 6th truss of fruit and i pinch out the top of the plant, remove any leaves that are shading the fruit from light. Once you get to the point where you are just ripening fruit you don't need loads of leaves, but that doesn't mean total defoliation.

planting wild garlic that's in the green

Posted: 29/04/2015 at 11:59

If you don't want it to spread about just make sure you take off the flowers. The bulbs don't increase that much, it's the self seeding that makes it spread quickly.

Poor Germination Rate

Posted: 28/04/2015 at 14:49

Might not always be the seeds, could be duff compost.

1 to 10 of 220

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