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Latest posts by AndytheScientist

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Posted: 07/12/2015 at 16:28

I'd agree with treehugger80 go for a fruit tree orchard. Most modern root stocks won't get more than 2-3m high, so no one can possible moan about them blocking light. Even larger trees like cherries on the commercially available root stocks will not get more than about 4M tall in 20 years time!

In a plot that size you could easily get few apples, a couple of plums, a cherry, couple of pears etc. Whatever floats your boat. 

Recentlyplanted apple tree very ill!!!

Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:25

I'd agree remove the fruit this year, if you really want to try an apple just leave 1 or 2 max.

Did you winter prune the plant after it was planted? Usually with 2 year old plants these should be pruned at planting time. I planted some 2 year old bare root apples/plums and pears this winter too, most had been pruned by the supplier before shipping but some still needed doing.

If the were not done I'd prune them back a bit now which will encourage growth further down the branches, and stop the branches getting too long and week.  Remember the branches need to be pretty thick and strong to hold fruit. 


Posted: 04/06/2015 at 10:14

I usually remove the lower 3rd of the plants leaves, this helps prevent them getting splashed when watering.

Later once i've got the 5th or 6th truss of fruit and i pinch out the top of the plant, remove any leaves that are shading the fruit from light. Once you get to the point where you are just ripening fruit you don't need loads of leaves, but that doesn't mean total defoliation.

planting wild garlic that's in the green

Posted: 29/04/2015 at 11:59

If you don't want it to spread about just make sure you take off the flowers. The bulbs don't increase that much, it's the self seeding that makes it spread quickly.

Poor Germination Rate

Posted: 28/04/2015 at 14:49

Might not always be the seeds, could be duff compost.

Toms-- pot or growbag?

Posted: 27/04/2015 at 10:59

I use grow bags, but with tomato rings in them. 2x growbag. Have hand plenty of success, but i also have a automatic dripper to water into the ring daily. The growbags always have space marked for 3 plants, but 3 is too many. 

The rings also allows you to earth up around the stem, and direct feed to the top roots, while watering the bottom roots. Found them to work very well.



Advice on a shrub please.

Posted: 23/04/2015 at 11:00

I've always found Choisya to be pretty slow growing, although a very nice plant, unless you buy a really big one at the garden centre it'll be a while before it does much.

What about something like a nice Hebe, they grow very fast will be decent sized shrubs in 1 season and have nice flowers that the bees love. Can get them in some great purpley colours too. Although this depends on the ultimate size you want it to grow, if you want it to grow taller than the wall then it's not good.

Ceanothus are a good shout, as they grow pretty quickly and are very pretty. 

Another fast growing pretty evergreen would be a tree lupin. 

Pyracantha might be nice with their orange/red berries.

Although not evergreen a couple of philadelphus (mock orange) might be stunning, either side of the drive. The smell would be amazing when in flower.

No flowers again but a couple of photinia would be add nice colour.


Knotweed or Bindweed?

Posted: 22/04/2015 at 09:32

Always amazes me just how much difference 300 miles can make... I watch gardeners world and Monty is doing all sorts of stuff that i know i couldn't get away with here for a month

Sticky willy is the main problem weed of the moment here. At least that's easy to clear as the dogs like to eat it.. 

Knotweed or Bindweed?

Posted: 22/04/2015 at 09:20

Isn't it very early in the year for bindweed? I normally don't see it appearing till june/july, but i'm in the north east.



Go figure..!

Posted: 21/04/2015 at 14:54

Out of interest what 2 variety do you have? 

1 to 10 of 215

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