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1 to 20 of 1,502 posts
22 Dec 2015 14:28
21 Dec 2015 17:04
I tried indivisa by seed last spring - a small percentage came up within weeks and is still rather grass like. I suspect more germination next spring after stratification.
I would leave the berries on the Cordyline until they go off white - they tiny seed should be hard if you open the berry.
Did the flowers have a scent? I have had my bog standard Cordyline flower a few times but really cannot get a scent from it.
20 Dec 2015 21:38
Bamboo can be stained black with manganese. May I suggest to buy a golden bamboo screen and staining it?
20 Dec 2015 21:14
The biggest problem with Cordyline indivisa is that a lot of sellers sold Cordyline australis varieties as Cordyline indivisa. The difference is very easy to spot, the leaves are thick and have an orange stripe down them. Basically Cordyline indivisa is easy from seed...the problem is that it is not as hardy as the PR says it is.
19 Dec 2015 18:11
"The tree root must be coming from a huuuuge deciduous tree from the grass verge by the main road. (about 7 metres away) It would be a killer cut this root."
Why would it be a killer cut? Roots 7M are not going to kill a tree, esp in winter.
Re the concrete, can you not just take a crowbar to wedge it out or break it up?
What type of tree are they? There are shallow rooting trees but you are always best to give them a fighting chance when establishing them.
19 Dec 2015 16:32
Not sure where the nasty antagonism has come from on this forum...suck it up I suppose. I have lots of Bamboo and it has not invaded anywhere (apart from the Sasa which I knew is a type that is invaisive). Why are people opening a thread from last Feb anyway?
18 Dec 2015 22:01
I have a number of Bamboo in my back yard and they are all well bahaved apart from the Pseudosasa japonica which I knew and wanted to be a runner on a slope. I think stress (lack of water, root damage etc) is what can set bamboo to set out runners, which makes sense, bad location, it goes looking for a better one.
14 Dec 2015 21:14
Legally a fence is just a boundary feature. The absence of a fence does not negate the fact. No one owns a boundary: it is by definition soemthing that is shared between owners. So no you do not need to mark a boundary.
Perhaps the neighbour from hell is worried about adverse possesion? In England you may be able to gain ownership of land by enfencing an area without the objection of the legal owner over time. In Scotland the legal owner is always the superior, so adverse possession no longer occurs.
Why does he think that you have taken some of his land? If he build his fence up to the old fence, what difference does the old fence being there or not make?
@hostafan1 - there is no permitted development for fence height. There are rules for fence height near highways but otherwise you are very unlikely to have issues with a fence up to 2 metres high as its highest point.
05 Dec 2015 14:36
Damp but well draining soil is what they get back in their native New Zealand, where they are found everywhere but especially on hillsides. Amended clay soil should actually be perfect for them. I have lots of large Cordylines growing fine in my heavy clay (amended and free growing)
07 Nov 2015 22:02
A spade as per the above or burning it both work well.
07 Nov 2015 22:01
I take it you protect the pseudostems with straw over winter? If so I would not cut them down...just let the nutrients roll back into the roots. You have a good clump - well done!
07 Nov 2015 17:25
"im inclined for mulch and cut down this year"
The approach that I would take.
07 Nov 2015 17:25
They are musa basjoo. They put a lot of energy into flowering and the pseudostem will die back in time, but it also will through up a lot of pups in return. The flower can be cut off...I am not sure if the seed will be fertile or not and you already have a good clump.
You can cut off the flower to see if it stops the pseudostem from dieing back but as it has already put in so much energy into flowering I suggest it is too late. I would let them die back and allow the pups to grow.
02 Oct 2015 22:02
Agree with Epsom salts but would also add in an ericacious feed on top. Rhoddies are acid loving (as are Fatsia). Both will do fine in neutral soil but can go pale and lose leaves if they use up all nutrients and get too dry. Fatsia leaves are also paler the more sun they get.
17 Jul 2015 22:01
I have over a dozen types of Bamboo and the spreaders spread slowly in my heavy soil. Raspberry is by far the most invaisive thing I have: they spread metres at a time and come up all over the place. Black Bamboo tends to behave itself and if you really want to hide an eye sore then it will work for some years but will eventually thin out and grow large thick canes.
02 Jun 2015 21:24
The Cypress on the right looks OK and the one on the left is ok-ish though I would move both away from the house. Do you have a better place for one or both?
02 Jun 2015 18:04
I have these for the very first time. I hope to have caught them early. I killed 5 adults and all the eggs I found. They were on fritillaria imperialis. I had wondered why they looked poorly this year. I have logged the find in the above.
01 Jun 2015 15:05
You get perennial Wallflowers: these last 2-4 years before looking woody (like old Lavender). They can self seed or you can take cuttings very easily.
01 Jun 2015 09:55
Which part of the picture above is not your garden?
31 May 2015 18:13
Yew seed is equally as poisonous and you would not eat those. There are plenty of much more poisonous and toxic plants in your garden, especially the phototoxic ones.