auntie betty

Latest posts by auntie betty

What screening plant to block out brick building?

Posted: 10/05/2013 at 08:45

Leylandii have their place - hedges of it tend to be a pain as they get over-large, but a single tree, particularly a golden one, might be just what you want. If you plant it as part of a group of other things, they're good. That said, there are some excellent thuja which might be better scaled for you. Depends how tall you want to go. Both look nice with yellow-variagated hollies and with fatsia japonica which can both get pretty tall. Look to spend at least £20 on each plant (more for the conifer) and you'll get ones big enough that they should romp away and do their job pretty quickly. Phyllostachys (green or gold bamboo) are also great but decent ones will cost £40ish. Look for one that's absolutely stuffed in its pot - it'll put out new stems within weeks of being planted, especially if the soil is moist. This type of bamboo just grows in a steadily increasing clump - but be warned - others can run under the ground and burst up all over the place (even thru patios etc). The benefit of a bamboo would be that it moves in the wind, making the eye tend to focus on IT, rather than what's behind. You could also do a trick where you put some sort of focal point low down and slightly off to one side of the offending wall. This will tend to pull the eye away too, even if its just an architectural plant or colourful pot or something.

Hanging baskets in shade

Posted: 10/05/2013 at 08:32

Also your ordinary pansies don't mind shade, especially the paler-coloured ones. Always worth stuffing a wee trailing ivy in there - variagated ones add worthwhile colour.

Encouraging Quicksilver to grow bushy instead of straight up

Posted: 10/05/2013 at 08:28

If it has one or more 'main' vertical trunks, you can cut these out completely (ie. below the stem's bottom-most bud or side-shoot) to encourage it to go out rather than up. That's 'stopping'.  Now's a good time for it.

Plant pot problem

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 05:05

Could you use a half barrel? Cut a big hole in the bottom and slide it over the pole from above? Or make a square versailles-type planter around the pole. I made one of these out of decking boards (they're pressure treated so won't rot for years). Bound to be a 'how to make.." on google/you tube. Putting soil around said pole will rot it eventually though - would that be ok? If not, tightly wrap the part of the pole concerned with thick bin bags to give it some extra protection from damp.

Tree planting

Posted: 30/04/2013 at 16:50

Yep, a willow is a good idea for your soggy bit. In amongst what I assume will become meadow, something fruiting like apple, pear or crab would be good. You might comsider some mixed native hedging too - hawthorn is brilliant for critters, an mixes well with blackthorn, holly, beech and hazel. In my experience, the odd escallonia and japanese quince in with it all extends the flowering season, and many creatures appreciate a bit of pyracantha too. If you've an opportunity, a shrubby area is nice to do. I'd include mahonia and daphne with early bulbs underneath, plus choisya, single roses, lilac, buddleia, and ground cover ivies. The odd stone or wood pile is good, as is a generous clump of nettles somewhere they wont offend you - these are the only food of many a caterpillar, so butterflies really need them. Its also worth planting some burnet in with your grass if you're letting it grow long. Burnet moths are fantastic little guys. Clover is also worth encouraging for bees, as is lavender.

problems with bamboo

Posted: 30/04/2013 at 16:36

The compost should contain adequate food for the time being. Poke a finger into the soil and check its not dry below a knuckle's depth - only water if it is. You shouldnt need to water more than every 4/5 days - just give plenty when you do so it penetrates to good depth before evaporating off. You can drown a young plant as easily as dehydrate it, as it doesnt have enough root to suck up the water, so go steady. Its probably just the sun/wind combo drying out the foliage faster than the young roots can replace the water. If you can, place something to shade them a bit and wait and see whether they regrow over the next month or so.

Is 12 inches a deep enough hole for a clematis?

Posted: 30/04/2013 at 16:29

yeah, but I agree with Matty2. I'd also suggest a good mulch of something - clem likes its feet cool and as ts roots are likely to stay shallow it'll need it all the more. Pop some little stones or something over the soil around the roots and it should be fine. You can always lay the rootball over if you're struggling for depth from the get-go. As long as its got a shoot above soil level it'll know which way is up!

Bare rooted aquilegia

Posted: 29/04/2013 at 04:59

I'd leave em be and not water too much. Stick a finger in the soil now and again and if its slightly damp half a 'finger' below the surface, they're fine.

Laurel tree troubleshooting

Posted: 29/04/2013 at 04:54

Thems some dead laurels boy

Small front garden planting

Posted: 28/04/2013 at 11:51

Low maintenance evergreens include: phormium, bergenia, heuchera, euonymous (some), carex, cotoneaster (some), flat-growing junipers, choisya, lavender, euphorbia (some), aucuba japonica, prunus (some), ajuga, festuca, hedera, saxifraga (some). Hard to be specific without pic, but there's some stuff to look up anyway.. Try to have a few bulbs or easy herbaceous things too, or you'll quickly get bored The odd clup of alliums and other few of hardy geranius would make all the diff. .Bx

Discussions started by auntie betty

topiary ideas

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PVC Fencing

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swell gel and plant food

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best annuals for shade / partial shade

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Flowers for July?

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Shadyish paving creepers

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