Berghill


Latest posts by Berghill

What's the difference between....

Posted: 26/02/2016 at 08:52

What Dove says. Watch out with perlite, you need to thoroughly wet it in the bag before using as the dust can be very easily breathed in.

Not keen on Vermiculite as I find it is too light and blows away on the pots of outdoor sown seeds and it does allow the growth of mosses and liverwort too.

 

When will people learn the difference...

Posted: 25/02/2016 at 20:55

They used to have as much problem with square yards and yards square, so nothing new.

Auriculars

Posted: 25/02/2016 at 20:53

I repot mine annually.About to do it now. You could put them deeper in the pot. Check for vine weevil at the same time.

Snowdrops

Posted: 25/02/2016 at 20:51

Been a big discussion on when to move Galanthus recently. Probably the best time is just after all the leaves have died down for the summer.

Paddy5 Try lifting a clump and checking that the bulbs are plump and firm and have good roots. If the bulbs are soft then cut one open to see if they are infected with Narcissus root fly grubs. Believe me you cannot miss them if they are. Otherwise if no proper roots then suspect Stagonospora curtisii which is a fungus which attacks Snowdrop. For symptoms you would need to Google it.

What's the difference between....

Posted: 25/02/2016 at 20:45

Vermiculite is a hydrous phyllosilicate mineral. It undergoes significant expansion when heated. Exfoliation occurs when the mineral is heated sufficiently, and the effect is routinely produced in commercial furnaces. Vermiculite is formed by weathering or hydrothermal alteration of biotite or phlogopite.

Perlite is an amorphous volcanic glass that has a relatively high water content, typically formed by the hydration of obsidian.

So Vermiculite is a shaped like flat plates and Perlite is little balls.

Both hold water, but in a different way. Perlite soaks it up, but Vermiculite holds it between the plates.

Both are chemically inert so they have no effect on the pH of the compost.

Snowdrops in the green

Posted: 25/02/2016 at 10:49

Galanthus have developed their bulbous form as a food storage organ so they can survive the lack of light from deciduous trees. This means that the bulb itself never dries out and has not developed a skin to protect it from desiccation. So, bulbs which are allowed to become over dried (as in hot G/C's) will have almost certainly died.

Originally it was thought that moving them when growing ie in the green was the best way to getr viable plants without the desiccation problem.

Modern thinking is that the best time to move them is when the bulbs are dormant, but to replant before the bulbs get dry.

I wonder if the bulb companies could find a packaging method to keep the dormant bulbs alive?

Tulips, narcissus etc, developed a bulbous form to avoid the heat of Summer. Their bulbs have a 'coat' to protect them. That is why you may buy their bulbs safely. In fact there are some bulbs which do better if allowed to completely dry out and bake in Summer.

Last year's Sweet Williams

Posted: 21/02/2016 at 17:43

Actually short lived perennials which are grown as biennials. Some of mine are  in their 4th year now. All I do is cut them back when they have finished flowered. It seems to suit them.

Feeding with a high potash feed does help them flower.

How do snowdrops naturally divide?

Posted: 20/02/2016 at 14:23

The straight G. nivalis which we have elsewhere,do set seed. It is only the ones in our wood which appear to be sterile.


 

How do snowdrops naturally divide?

Posted: 20/02/2016 at 12:08

The Galanthus in our Wood do not seem to set seed, looked every year for seed, but never found any and the ovaries seem to be empty too. However, they are spread rather expertly by the moles.

Shredder

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 20:36

We have this one too. Not as good as their original one, but better than any of the other makes of this type.

Professional petrol driven ones are better still, but very expensive and for a normal size garden, not worth the effort.

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