Latest posts by Berghill

Problem with the apple trees

Posted: 05/09/2016 at 16:23

All you can do with the lichen is scrape it off. It is just a sign of clean air. The spots are Scab. Difficult to deal with. there are now no fungicides available to the amateur. If you can get hold of Copper sulphate from a Wine making outlet then you could spray with that. It is reasonably organic . Otherwise peel the fruit before eating. Collect up and do not compost any scabby leaves and fruit.

Garden Pictures 2016

Posted: 05/09/2016 at 16:20

Took these today. Not as much colour as usual, but we are suffering from lack of rain over August (less than half an inch in the month)

Poor fruit tree crop

Posted: 05/09/2016 at 12:36

We are in North Shropshire. Apples, very good crop, but a lot of Codlin moth (could not Winter spray as the wind never dropped) and Scab.Plums very poor, both Victoria and Margaret. Damsons well down n normal crop and not ripe yet. Medlar very good and Quince, nothing. Pears ok but again scabby. We had very cold wind when the Plums were in blossom. too cold for the bees.

Strange though that the Wild plum down the lane has the best crop on it for years.

Last edited: 05 September 2016 12:37:52

What is this plant called?

Posted: 04/09/2016 at 13:40

Yes, Leycesteria formosa. Can be a bit of a seed weed where suited.


Posted: 04/09/2016 at 13:37

Sow the seed fresh. It germinates better straight from the plant rather than being dried off.

Cover lightly with grit, gravel or whatever rather than compost.

Sow in a deep pot rather than a seed tray (reasons later).

Leave exposed to weather. They need a period of cold followed by warmth to initiate germination.

When (if?) they germinate do not be in a hurry to p rick them out. This is the reason for deep pot rather than seed tray. They have only one root to begin with and if it is damaged, it dies and a new one has to be produced from the base of the seedling. usually they die.

Feed the seed pot with dilute Baby Bio type stuff, until the leaves go yellow then allow the pot to dry off.

Repotting may be done when they are dormant. Some types never really go dormant so be careful.

I often do not repot until they have had another seasons growth. Remember many of them actually grow in late winter/early spring.

What is it?

Posted: 04/09/2016 at 13:31

No, cutworms . They will eat the roots of whatever plant they are under.

Japanese Anenome

Posted: 03/09/2016 at 17:57

Snap! Just about managed to get rid of it from one place by leaving the soil empty for the last 6 years and putting Roundup on it every time a leaf appeared.

Name of this anenome

Posted: 02/09/2016 at 20:35

Wish they would die on us. Been pouring weed killer on these thugs for the last 20 years and still they come up and kill everything else in their path. Be wartned

Vine Weevil?

Posted: 30/08/2016 at 16:49

Er, now this is just a personal opinion, but I would not bother putting Provado on the garden soil as such. It does have a bad effect on bees and is absorbed into plant tissue so that the bees take in the poison when they collect pollen and or nectar.

I have found that  vine weevil grubs do far less damage in the garden than they do in pots. they tend  to eat in straight lines in the soil rather than going round and round as they do in a pot.

Rarely have found a completely rootless plant in the garden only pot grown ones.

I only use Provado on plants which have no flowers on and are not likely to flower until the following season when hopefully the poison has dissipated.

Apples-anyone recognise this problem (pics)

Posted: 29/08/2016 at 16:45

The fruit is still edible once peeled, as long as the marks have not penetrated too far.

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