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Berghill


Latest posts by Berghill

Propagating lavender

Posted: 14/10/2013 at 12:08

Me too. Cuttings are so easy that I have never bothered, as is seed for the species.

They do hate root disturbance so it would not do them any good to be dug up and replanted deeper if they are an established plant at least. You might get away with it if it was a younger plant.

 

What should I do with these apple trees and when?

Posted: 13/10/2013 at 18:23

Me too Waterbutts. Obviously the 100 pounds each of Greensleeves, Crown Gold and Discovery were grown all wrong and I should have thrown them away. I will do that with the 200 or so pounds of Catshead and heaven knows how many of Ashmeads Kernel. And I will have to glue the Summer prunings of these tree back on so I can take them off in the correct way, for the correct reason at the correct time.

And while I am at it I had better get rid of the frozen Katja puree from the freezers.

 

 

What should I do with these apple trees and when?

Posted: 13/10/2013 at 15:08

I think I have gone invisible. All that has been repeated here is what I posted.

And like waterbutts I have been growing and pruning Apple trees for more years than I care to think about and learned it from a professional Orchard man before I started.

The only thing I would diagree with (and that is just an opinion) is that summer pruning is for restricted shapes only. Well generally yes, but in this case the tree has been turned into a restricted shape so Winter pruning is not going to help. Summer pruning creates fruiting spures. Winter pruning makes new growth.

 

Moles AND Crane flies

Posted: 11/10/2013 at 16:07

Glad it worked for you. When I tried one on one of our lawns, we found dozens of mole hills all round it. We reckoned they were having a disco to the sound from it.

Please, try everything, if it works for you then great. It is just our experience which is so negative, not other folk's.

Some time back I made a very special type of Alpine growing area. To make sure the "little gentleman in black" (Historical reference there to the name given to moles by the Jacobites) did not ruin my work, I put a piece of chiciken wire on the ground before constructiom. So far they have not managed to come up through that.

clematis montsna freda

Posted: 11/10/2013 at 15:59

No, don't give up on it. We have had a Clematis re-appear afer two years of no show.

Moles AND Crane flies

Posted: 11/10/2013 at 12:08

This smoke just lines the tunnels with castor oil which the moles do not like. Eventually it wears off and the mole may then return.  Cheaper to do what  Lavatera suggested.

Also you can try putting strips of cloth soaked in Jeyes Fluid in the runs. It stops them using that one for a while, but it does encourage them to dig new ruins too.

Once upon a time they sold Mole smoke which killed them, not any more except to professional people.

clematis montsna freda

Posted: 11/10/2013 at 12:03

Most usual problem with newly planted Clematis is the dread snail/slug. They really love the new stems and strip the bark off. Then obviously that stem dies back.  Wilt strats at the bottom of a stem and climbs, Mollusc damage starts at the top and descends. Also, it is very easy to damage stems when planting, without realsing it, even if you are very careful.

Moles AND Crane flies

Posted: 10/10/2013 at 21:37

Sorry to put a bit of a damper on your enthusiasum, but we have tried all of those things suggested and ........................we still have moles. Even putting 200 gallons of grey water from the septic tank down the runs (another story) only kept them away for a couple of seasons. Our cats have had 7 this year, and still we have mole hills in the borders.

Sorry.

Wildflower ID help

Posted: 10/10/2013 at 12:56

Take a walk along the  Wirral Way behind Parkate and you will see how invasive it can be where suited.

What should I do with these apple trees and when?

Posted: 09/10/2013 at 21:18

You can turn water shoots into productive branches, but if the shape of the tree is ruined then there is little point.

Decide which shoots are the best, ie growing in the right direction etc. then remove all the others back to one leaf joint from their point of origin.

On the retained shoots remove the tip back to a leaf joint.

All this should be done in SUMMER. Pruning in Autumn/ Winter encourages new growth and you want fruiting spurs not new branches.

Takes a few years to get the tree back to production, so you have to decide if it is worth it.

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