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BicesterTerrier


Latest posts by BicesterTerrier

1 to 10 of 21

Peony in a pot over winter

Posted: 19/11/2013 at 19:04

I have a peony root (sorry if not correct) in a small - circa 8" - pot that my parents have dug up and potted for me. The leaves have died back and they suggested leaving it and waiting for the shoots in spring before planting.

My concern is that if I leave it out in the garden over winter that the whole pot will freeze, is this a bad thing. Would it be worth moving it somewhere, I don't have a greenhouse at the moment, my options are the house, a shed or the garage (didn't think lack of light is an issue as there are no leaves).

What should I do, the Wife is sick of the plants migrating indoors, could do without another one.

Thanks,

Rich

Garlic planting

Posted: 19/11/2013 at 18:59

Planted mine about 3 weeks ago, although I am a little worried as the garden is heavy clay and although the bed has a good amount of top soil and compost in it is really wet. No sign of anything yet (the onions have shoots), I hope they haven't rotted.

Might have to consider raising the bed after all.

Rhubarb

Posted: 31/10/2013 at 08:58

Thanks for the replies, for some reason I didn't put the time of year and the yellowing together.

Rhubarb

Posted: 28/10/2013 at 17:26

I'll resurect this thread rather than start another one.

I recently planted a rhubarb crown that I had got from my parents. It had been in a pot for a few weeks since being dug up and brough to me. A few leaves grew in the meant time and after planting another 1 sprouted.

I then prepared a bed next to it and since then the leaves have started to yellow and I have lost 2 of them with a third looking bad. Whilst preparing the bed the leaves did get covered a little, but I was quick to uncover them, although I think the yellowing spread from where it had been in contact with the soil. The bed was prepared with a mix of topsoil and farmyard manure, is it likely this did the rhubarb no good?

The garden is not the driest at the moment and although I have worked in some compost and topsoil the bed the rhubarb in is very heavy. Has it got trenchfoot?

Is there any hope for it, or do I need to talk nicely to my folks.

which water pump

Posted: 22/10/2013 at 19:21
Farmergeddun wrote (see)

I now know who to ask about water features 

Ask away, although probably best to message me, not always around. I am no expert on water features, but I did study Chemical Engineering for 4yrs and then spent 13 yrs working with systems to move, spray and control fluids, I can not claim to be an expert though.

sam hallett wrote (see)

ah okay thanks , your right 2 bar is too high , the one thing that i'm a bit worried about is theres no description of the degredation to flow rate at different heights of under one meter. I think i will buy one and test it out. cheers

I wouldn't worry too much about flow loss below 1m, if you have a pump that can deliver the flow you want at 1m  then you can always set up the system and then either restrict the flow by perhaps tightening a jubilee clip around the discharge hose or even make a number of small holes in the pipe close to the pump, the more holes the less will make it to the outlet at the water feature.

which water pump

Posted: 21/10/2013 at 18:40

I don't think you want the pressure of the water to be 2 bar, that is a lot, the 450 litre pump has a 1m head, this means that the pump can pump water up 1m, this is equivalent to 0.1bar. If you want to generate 2bar pressure you are looking at something considerably larger than a pond pump, you need something capable of pushing water 20m up a vertical pipe, bearing in mind of course that there will be no flow at 20m up, the pump impellor will literally be spinning in the pump pushing water out as fast as gravity is trying to pull it back down.

If the water feature is an open pipe then there is no pressure to speak of, you only generate pressure when you restrict flow. You need pressure to overcome gravity, to lift the water the height that you need and have sufficient energy left to give you flow.

http://www.hozelock.com/uploads/pdf/Aquatic%20data/Cascade/Cascade-performance.png

With the chart linked above, if you lift the outlet of the hose 1m above the pump then there is no flow on the 450 pump. If you mounted this pump level with a gallon bucket then it would take just under 1 minute to fill, the minute you lift the bucket it takes longer.

Think more about what you want the feature to look like and then work from there.

which water pump

Posted: 19/10/2013 at 18:57

Most pumps you will buy from a pond/water garden place will likely be a rotating impellor type (centrifugal), the water flows in to the centre of a rotating disc with vanes and is then squeezed through a chamber that is actually smaller than the inlet leaving at a tangent creating pressure. Some pumps will come with a fountain and waterfall attachment allowing you to pump water to another location whilst having a fountain close to the pump, you can sometimes vary the flow that goes to either the fountain or down the hose. This is great for what you want, you don't need to use the fountain attachment, but by opening or closing this valve it will change the amount of water going through your feature, the remainder will just be recirculated in the sump or pool or whatever you have feeding the feature.

Something like this might be okay, and at £35 ain't going to break the bank - http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/products/Hozelock-Cascade-700-Pond-Pump.html - one word of warning, remember that the greater the height difference between the pump and the outlet of your feature the lower the flow rate will be. Also, your pump has to be below the level of the main reservoir, you can not mount it next to the outlet, if this is above the water reservoir, pumps don't suck, well not this sort anyway.

rich

Which tool to break soil the best

Posted: 19/10/2013 at 18:37

I decided to be impatient and get the first of the beds finished today, a large bag of farmyard manure and 1 1/2 of top soil went in, had a play with the tiller, made a right bloody mess, but got the bed down to a good consistency, very few "clay" pieces larger than 2-3cm, mostly less than 1cm. Had bought some onions and garlic earlier in the autumn so needed somewhere to put them, couldn't be bothered with tubs.

As for the second (larger) bed, if it is not raining tomorrow I am going to go out and dig it with a fork/spade, just turning the turf in and cover with topsoil, manure and organic compost, give it a little mix and leave nature to it over winter.

Rich

Which tool to break soil the best

Posted: 19/10/2013 at 09:52

There is still a product called clay breaker - http://www.vitax.co.uk/home-garden/vitax-clay-breaker/ - I had a read of the safety datasheet and it is just gypsum. Probably easier to buy this than gypsum though, someone has gone to the bother of pelletising it and giving useage rates.

Which tool to break soil the best

Posted: 18/10/2013 at 19:00

Thought I'd pop back with an update.

I bought the 800W tiller in the end. Now it is in no way intended to do the job I asked of it, but I managed to get reasonable results.

The tiller made a real mess, but scraped the turf off in no time, then whilst trying to wrestle it to keep it in one place decided there was no chance it was ever going to make it's own way through the clay soil. A quick dig with a fork to start to loosen the clay and give the tiller something to get it's teeth into and the results were surprising. Okay, there were a few (actually a lot) of stones in the ground which did make a racket and occasinally need me to stop and pick them out. Within no time at all (except the occasional bounce when it hit a stone) the tiller was throwing out small pea size lumps of soil. Unfortunately my Wife and 2yr old came home at that point so I decided it best to put it away, never got the chance to get it going on incorporating some topsoil or farmyard manure.

Sadly it's rained pretty much every day this week so the ground is a real mess, but I was out there earlier and a quick turn over with a fork returned a still loose although clay-y bed. If the weather stays dry overnight and into the morning I might see how we go at getting some topsoil and manure into it.

Then just the small matter of the larger bed, the one I dug last week is a triangle with 2m diagonals, this next one is larger.

I'll have a look at the YouTube link to the tips and see how I feel about trying that method.

The only downside to the tiller is that it does make a mess, throws the soil everywhere, decided to get some marine ply cut to the same width/length as the paths around and between the veg patch so I can cover them and just tip the soil back in once tilled.

Thanks again for all the advice, I'll try and get some pictures up.

Richard

1 to 10 of 21

Discussions started by BicesterTerrier

Peony in a pot over winter

Will it survive? 
Replies: 3    Views: 230
Last Post: 19/11/2013 at 21:33

Which tool to break soil the best

Electric tiller or Wolfe Soil Miller 
Replies: 29    Views: 1246
Last Post: 08/11/2013 at 13:22

New build house, new build lawn - help to start off the right way.

Bought a barnd new house, with a brand new lawn, looking for tips on the things I should be doing with the lawn. 
Replies: 15    Views: 1453
Last Post: 06/04/2013 at 13:35
3 threads returned