BicesterTerrier


Latest posts by BicesterTerrier

1 to 10 of 24

Help identifying fuchsia

Posted: 21/08/2016 at 11:05

To date I have had Phyllis suggested for the small one, and 7th Heaven for the larger one, sounds like a minefield this identifying lark.


Thanks for the input Lyn, much appreciated.

0/10 for garden design for me!!

Posted: 21/08/2016 at 10:55

I have a smallish, square garden, I also wanted to plant something that I can pretty much leave to its own devices and concentrate on a couple of beds that I swap between summer and winter planting. I planted a fuchsia hedge across the garden to split between a veg patch and lawn, you could add a few feet of plants to the left or right side to give you that break. I split the whole garden, but no reason why you couldn't plant 4 or 5 plants, I used 18 to go across 13m. Bought from Victoriana Nursery - https://www.victoriananursery.co.uk/Ballerina_Fuchsia_Hedging/ - around £2 each, this is their third summer, cut them back to 1' in the spring and away they go. 



I widened the fuschia bed in the middle and plant Dahlias in summer and pansys and bulbs for winter & spring, just adds a variety to the garden. The neighbours willow adds a nice touch, sadly not a nice touch when it is across your face at 7am on the way to work and its wet through.


If you can add some shape to the borders you can than add some shrubs that will grow larger, otherwise you'll just get annoyed that the grass beneath does not do so well. I speak from experience, I have a Hydrangea and a Hibiscus that are starting to spread so i think the beds are going to have to grow. Also means they don't get eaten by the lawnmower quite so easily on the way past.


Crocosmia is great, there are some small varieties, I personally like the larger ones, Lucifer being a particular favourite. It will get bigger over the years, I have been amazed who well it spreads, a little too well. 


Adding a tree/large bush helps to give a little something else, I planted a black elder, gets cut back every year and still clears the fence in a season.



I have been in this house for 3 years and started with 100m2 of lawn, slowly but surely I am finding my feet, it's not the finished thing yet, still need to get in to the beds with some decent compost as it is pretty much solid clay.


I have sacrificed a few plants that didn't work last year, I think I may have to rethink a few others, Lupins, they grow well, but want something wider than a 18" border to grow in.


There is no right and wrong, there are a few "rules of thumb" to go by, but if you like the way it looks then no one else's opinion counts.


Happy planting!


Richard

Help identifying fuchsia

Posted: 21/08/2016 at 10:19

Morning,


I have been in contact with the British Fuchsia Society about a couple of plants I was trying to identify, they have given me a couple of names but suggested I look for more advice. Whilst I wait for them to see if they can put me in touch with local specialists I wonder if anyone here can help.


There is this large, double variety.The berries left behind after flowering are round with lines running top to bottom a bit like a pumpkin and are purple with white freckles.



Then there is this smaller one, although earlier in the season the flowers are larger. The berries on this after flowering are olive size and deep purple, almost black. -



Finally, the reason for asking all this is that I received them from my late Father and decided to try and cross them, I want to know if this is something new.


I'll post pictures of the offspring should I be able to figure out what I have above.


Thanks,


Richard

Peony in a pot over winter

Posted: 19/11/2013 at 19:04

I have a peony root (sorry if not correct) in a small - circa 8" - pot that my parents have dug up and potted for me. The leaves have died back and they suggested leaving it and waiting for the shoots in spring before planting.

My concern is that if I leave it out in the garden over winter that the whole pot will freeze, is this a bad thing. Would it be worth moving it somewhere, I don't have a greenhouse at the moment, my options are the house, a shed or the garage (didn't think lack of light is an issue as there are no leaves).

What should I do, the Wife is sick of the plants migrating indoors, could do without another one.

Thanks,

Rich

Garlic planting

Posted: 19/11/2013 at 18:59

Planted mine about 3 weeks ago, although I am a little worried as the garden is heavy clay and although the bed has a good amount of top soil and compost in it is really wet. No sign of anything yet (the onions have shoots), I hope they haven't rotted.

Might have to consider raising the bed after all.

Rhubarb

Posted: 31/10/2013 at 08:58

Thanks for the replies, for some reason I didn't put the time of year and the yellowing together.

Rhubarb

Posted: 28/10/2013 at 17:26

I'll resurect this thread rather than start another one.

I recently planted a rhubarb crown that I had got from my parents. It had been in a pot for a few weeks since being dug up and brough to me. A few leaves grew in the meant time and after planting another 1 sprouted.

I then prepared a bed next to it and since then the leaves have started to yellow and I have lost 2 of them with a third looking bad. Whilst preparing the bed the leaves did get covered a little, but I was quick to uncover them, although I think the yellowing spread from where it had been in contact with the soil. The bed was prepared with a mix of topsoil and farmyard manure, is it likely this did the rhubarb no good?

The garden is not the driest at the moment and although I have worked in some compost and topsoil the bed the rhubarb in is very heavy. Has it got trenchfoot?

Is there any hope for it, or do I need to talk nicely to my folks.

which water pump

Posted: 22/10/2013 at 19:21
Farmergeddun wrote (see)

I now know who to ask about water features 

Ask away, although probably best to message me, not always around. I am no expert on water features, but I did study Chemical Engineering for 4yrs and then spent 13 yrs working with systems to move, spray and control fluids, I can not claim to be an expert though.

sam hallett wrote (see)

ah okay thanks , your right 2 bar is too high , the one thing that i'm a bit worried about is theres no description of the degredation to flow rate at different heights of under one meter. I think i will buy one and test it out. cheers

I wouldn't worry too much about flow loss below 1m, if you have a pump that can deliver the flow you want at 1m  then you can always set up the system and then either restrict the flow by perhaps tightening a jubilee clip around the discharge hose or even make a number of small holes in the pipe close to the pump, the more holes the less will make it to the outlet at the water feature.

which water pump

Posted: 21/10/2013 at 18:40

I don't think you want the pressure of the water to be 2 bar, that is a lot, the 450 litre pump has a 1m head, this means that the pump can pump water up 1m, this is equivalent to 0.1bar. If you want to generate 2bar pressure you are looking at something considerably larger than a pond pump, you need something capable of pushing water 20m up a vertical pipe, bearing in mind of course that there will be no flow at 20m up, the pump impellor will literally be spinning in the pump pushing water out as fast as gravity is trying to pull it back down.

If the water feature is an open pipe then there is no pressure to speak of, you only generate pressure when you restrict flow. You need pressure to overcome gravity, to lift the water the height that you need and have sufficient energy left to give you flow.

http://www.hozelock.com/uploads/pdf/Aquatic%20data/Cascade/Cascade-performance.png

With the chart linked above, if you lift the outlet of the hose 1m above the pump then there is no flow on the 450 pump. If you mounted this pump level with a gallon bucket then it would take just under 1 minute to fill, the minute you lift the bucket it takes longer.

Think more about what you want the feature to look like and then work from there.

which water pump

Posted: 19/10/2013 at 18:57

Most pumps you will buy from a pond/water garden place will likely be a rotating impellor type (centrifugal), the water flows in to the centre of a rotating disc with vanes and is then squeezed through a chamber that is actually smaller than the inlet leaving at a tangent creating pressure. Some pumps will come with a fountain and waterfall attachment allowing you to pump water to another location whilst having a fountain close to the pump, you can sometimes vary the flow that goes to either the fountain or down the hose. This is great for what you want, you don't need to use the fountain attachment, but by opening or closing this valve it will change the amount of water going through your feature, the remainder will just be recirculated in the sump or pool or whatever you have feeding the feature.

Something like this might be okay, and at £35 ain't going to break the bank - http://www.worldofwater.co.uk/products/Hozelock-Cascade-700-Pond-Pump.html - one word of warning, remember that the greater the height difference between the pump and the outlet of your feature the lower the flow rate will be. Also, your pump has to be below the level of the main reservoir, you can not mount it next to the outlet, if this is above the water reservoir, pumps don't suck, well not this sort anyway.

rich

1 to 10 of 24

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Help identifying fuchsia

 
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