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Latest posts by biofreak

Gardening by the Moon

Posted: 16/02/2015 at 10:00

Thank you so much for your support, it actually gives me confidence to continue too. So glad to bounce ideas off other people on the Forum, especially when some methods do require second opinions. 2 heads are better than 1 and all that and a problem shared is a problem halved! Anyway before I start on this potted description of Biodynamics and lunar gardening, may I just answer one persistent question - The fact that I live in France and you are in UK does not change the Luner Calender as it is on Greenwich Meantime and Europe is in the Northern Hemisphere so it does apply to you as much as I. I have put the hours for gardening in UK time as you are an hour behind us, but that is for your convenience only. Just to recap of the Moon element of this thread:-

The lunar month is 27days 7hrs and 44secs and in the exact image of the sun it passes in front of the constellations of the Zodiac exercising a great influence on the Earth - This can be easily recognised by high tide (when the moon is at its highest point in the sky) and low tide when the moon is at the lowest point (either horizon east or west.) To decide if the moon is ascending or descending in the sky take a tree/building in your garden and look at the moon - 2 hours later look again, it will be higher or lower in the sky and this gives you the visual info backed up by the Calender. For 13and a Half days the moon is rising from the constellation of Sagittarius to Gemini, it follows this track from 21st dec-21st june, during this time sap rises and this is the time to sow/graft, harvest leaf vegetables, the best fruit and to cut flowers for bouquets.For 13 and a Half days the moon is descending from the constellation of Gemini to Sagittarius and following the route of the Sun between 21st June - 21st Dec the sap returns to roots and now is the time to transplant/thin seedlings, spread compost and prune. The ground absorbs nutrients well, and hedges and trees are able to recover readily from pruning. It is this movement of ascending and descending that is of most interest to us gardeners.

When the Moon is at its highest point in the sky it is at its weakest in relation to gardening, when it is at its lowest it is also weak, so of no value to the gardener, this is why the Calender says no gardening before or after certain hours. Sowings may be unsuccessful/transplanting may weaken plants (albeit temporarily) The idea is to sow and plant at the best times working in co-ordination and with the rythmn of the stars.

The other cycle of importance is the synodique cycle where the moon changes  from New Moon to Full Moon this takes 29days 12hrs 44mins & 2secs (In the 3rd century BC the Babylonians made this calculation and modern day scientists have found that they were only 0.000053secs out!) This is where we talk about the moon crossing (croissante) and it is at this time that the sun casts a shadow on the moon entirely and it appears to disappear from the sky (That's when on a clear night we say 'I can't see the moon') The Moon is Uncrossing (decroissante) from the Full Moon to the New Moon. At the Full Moon it is entirely lit up by the Sun and appears round.

If the New Moon is at  'noeud'  or at a 'node' this means there is a solar eclipse as the Moon is directly in front of the Sun and at a Full Moon it is a lunar eclipse where the Earth's shadow falls on the Moon. At these times gardening is not recommended according to the Calender for 5hrs before or after an eclipse. Plants do not take well during these periods, so leave them alone - weed or mend fences or tidy paths, clean tools etc. Catch up on those jobs.

Going to have a coffee! Will come back to this a bit later. - Any questions so far?


Cheaper alternative to raised bed

Posted: 16/02/2015 at 09:03

The Classic French Potager is in squares and raised only specifically for handicapped gardeners, otherwise following the bio methods organic compost etc is added at this time of year and topped up regularly to form a crumbly mound. Each square is surrounded by herbs and flowers that attract bugs/bees and caterpillars that either attract or deter attention from your crops. I plant nasturtiums to attract blackfly away from broad beans - works a treat. Marigolds are great for attracting slugs, whilst thyme deters slugs. All looks very pretty too. More and more people are recommending growing onions/garlic and roots on ridges. The root system of the flowers and herbs that surround the squares keep the raised soil in place. I run an 8 square system and grow courgettes and cucumbers in wooden boxes (The ones they collect apples in) Although I am going to try a climbing gold courgette from T & M this year for the first time.

To Early?

Posted: 13/02/2015 at 15:06

Yes cut them to the ground now but then cover them with the spent growth or straw, this acts as a thatchy mulch and allows the new growth to pop through in the Spring.

Biodynamic Gardening

Posted: 13/02/2015 at 14:59

Going to start adding Biodynamic gardening Calender methods to Gardening by the Moon thread as from Monday 16th, together with explanations as to why and how it works. Seems easier than running two threads.

Gardening by the Moon

Posted: 13/02/2015 at 14:56

Well it is getting milder - so I think I will try some tom seeds on Sunday too. Thought I would add fuller details about Lunar Gardening/Biodynamic Gardening as from Monday on this thread, and we could see if there are improvements on last year by taking the methods a step further by co-ordinating the phases of the moon with the other constellations which reinforce the effects on the growth stages of plants. Please let me know if you would like me to go ahead, and continue with the Calender.


Posted: 13/02/2015 at 14:41

Positive that it should be OK as long as not sitting in boggy spot. They seem to like really arid conditions. Growing out of the tarmac on old car park near us. Beautiful specimans.

Maximum number of potatoes per litre of compost

Posted: 13/02/2015 at 14:38

Tried potatoes in bags last year and disasterous, I am going to revert back to pots growing 2 tubers in each. I pop tubers together on top of 6inches compost then cover with compost, once growth showing through, I cover with compost again and so on until it reaches 2 inches from top of pot. I use 40litres over all for 5 pots which I don't think is too bad, and the crops are tipped out into the wheelbarrow, and the spent compost popped on flower borders. Only works really well for me with early potatoes,


Posted: 13/02/2015 at 14:28

I would normally agree with you all, but it worked for me, and the lavender was 4yrs old so nice and big to start with. Have also done the same with stawberries this year successfully - my French neighbour who is a retired nurseryman swears by this so I gave it a go.

How to get rid of Gorse

Posted: 09/02/2015 at 14:47

In France we are responsable for the pavements outside our properties. Having a gravel pathway in front of us, the gorse in the rockery has seeded and rooted in the front. I have tried pulling up the seedlings and weedkilled plus chopped the rest. Unfortunately it is still coming up. Will Weedkiller for bracken work? There are no drains nearby so will not seep into water courses.

Gardening by the Moon

Posted: 09/02/2015 at 14:41

I don't - and I'm not sure if I will be able to sow toms as instructed on 15/16th - Still I might try some in the house to kick them off.

Discussions started by biofreak


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1 to 15 of 40 threads