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Latest posts by blairs

Unhealthy hebe

Posted: 02/03/2015 at 13:39

As you said the area is pretty much frost free and the Hellebore seem to like it we can whittle it down to drought, animal urine or disease. I would check what the die back is like when you lift them - anything diseased should be pruned off.

Unhealthy hebe

Posted: 02/03/2015 at 13:05

I am not that convinced that that looks like frost damage. The bed is next to a house and concrete paving so must have some sparing from the worst of the winter. I wonder if the area has poor drainage or some sort of root damage as the middle of the plants and the lower leaves look the most damaged. Tender new growth is what is normally affected first by frosts.


Posted: 02/03/2015 at 09:41

I put them outside to germinate as well, though rare plant seeds get the bag in the fridge. As long as the soil is loose and damp it works. You also have zero predation in a fridge.


Posted: 02/03/2015 at 09:09

I would have thought that cold stratification for 2-6 weeks then 13-25C would have been the instructions given as that is the standard for breaking stratification and what happens in nature. It seems one seed like warm conditions without the cold but the others will need it to break down the inhibition factors inside the seed.

Take out the germinated seed and keep it at the same temperatures in a pot (remove from bag).


Posted: 02/03/2015 at 09:04

They are not invasive in the UK. They self seed in warm weather but they die quickly in frosty weather. If they self seed in the wrong place then you can pull the plant out very easily and that is it gone.

Aralia, how to propagate by suckers

Posted: 01/03/2015 at 12:49

Does the trunk have spikes on it?

Aralia, how to propagate by suckers

Posted: 01/03/2015 at 10:52

What Aralia are you talking about specifically? Am guessing Aralia spinosa or elata but Fatsia and many others have been called Aralia so it can get confusing.


Posted: 28/02/2015 at 08:40

It is a myth that they need to be root bound to flower - it is just a coincidence that that they are mature enough to flower and be well rooted. Root bound also makes them slightly more hardy as water freely drains as it has no where to pool.

As Bilja has said feed them a tomato feed.

Creeping buttercup

Posted: 27/02/2015 at 22:52

Mulching helps a lot

The RHS says:

Creeping buttercup spreads by means of long runners; strong white, deeply penetrating roots that branch from each leaf node. Sub-lateral runners develop to form a vigorous, firmly anchored network of stems.

'Reproduction is usually from seeds but in moist conditions small nodal sections of stems may become established if severed and scattered when roots are beginning to form.'

Now that contradicts itself somewhat! Hunting around in the more formal literature I think I am happy to say that Creeping Buttercup can't regenerate from true roots, but can from a bit of the 'runner' [technically a stolon and for the RHS apparently a 'root' in the first paragraph and a 'stem' in the second!].

The stolon [another example is a strawberry runner] is green if it is growing in the light, but if it has pushed under the soil or is otherwise in the dark then it goes white.

True 'roots' are white and smooth; the stolon is hairy. True roots [of this species] lack the ability to make a new vegetative growth shoot, but the stolon has occasional leaf scales under which is a bud that can regenerate.

cherry tree problem

Posted: 26/02/2015 at 20:32

Fruits falling off can be caused by lack of key nutrients or water. Cherry loves damp conditions. I would add a tomato feed when the fruits are on the tree to help give the tree the necessary nutrients: without looking it up I think it needs more Nitrogen, Potassium and Magnesium when fruiting.

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