blairs


Latest posts by blairs

Spring bulbs help

Posted: 24/10/2013 at 12:29

If you catch the shooting bulbs early enough then you can bury them deeper. If they are above 1 inch then I would leave them as is, perhaps mulch them with bark if we get seriously cold winter weather.

Planting in pots has issues as when you transpant them you will damage the emerging roots and pots will be warmer than the ground, so will spur on growth. I would leave them in packets for 2 weeks as by then it will be colder.

planting sorbus

Posted: 22/10/2013 at 14:45

Now as they still need some water over winter and if planted now will put out roots.

Are places selling bare roots now? They normally wait till the first frosts force the trees into dormancy, which is late November. I would use your nail to take a bit of bark off the trunk to check the tree is green and healthy.

Succulents advise

Posted: 21/10/2013 at 17:27

Carrots and root veg wil grow in sand, very well.

Flowering cordyline

Posted: 21/10/2013 at 14:46

As mentioned Ritchie, you have a Phormium tenax and not a Cordyline. You can leave the flowers to set seed and cut off the stalk when you feel like it. It produces lots of black glossy seeds that you can germinate. Take a good few years to bulk up, at first it looks like grass.

Cold frames and greenhouses

Posted: 21/10/2013 at 12:59

I suppose the difference between a coldframe and greenhouse is that you can walk into a greenhouse. There is no temperature difference between a coldframe and cold greenhouse unless you use a heater in a greenhouse to keep a certain temperature. So you generally use a coldrame for hardy plants or plants that are hardy due to being kept dry - Agave for example.

I would say a bigger killer than cold is grey mould caused by inefficient ventallation in both coldframes and greenhouses, especially on seedlings. Any sunny day, open the doors to ventillate both.

I started with coldrames and moved up into greenhouses and use both - you can use a coldframe inside a greenhouse to add a little more protection.

Succulents advise

Posted: 20/10/2013 at 20:14

Sand actually holds a lot of water - that is why you can build a sandcastle. If you want to try succulents then add about 75% pea gravel 10% sand and rest compost mixed with bark. You also need to build the site up as sand pits tend to be sunken. If you are going to try Cacti or Agave then a roof to stop winter rains and snow is necessary as their hardiness is directly related to how dry their soil is.

Box shrubs

Posted: 20/10/2013 at 20:10

Yellowing is a sign of stress - normally lack of water during the summer.

bamboo

Posted: 20/10/2013 at 20:03

Verdun is 100% correct. Even clumping Bamboo bolt when they feel like it, yes even Fargesia. The worst is P.Nigra which behve for years then send out runners over and underground!

Clover

Posted: 20/10/2013 at 09:11

Verdone Extra Liquid Concentrate Lawn Weed Killer is great of clearing Clover. My lawn was quickly being overtaken and now is green and Clover free. I recommend it.

Plants that I can put infront of a conifer hedge

Posted: 19/10/2013 at 09:19

@Verdun, am sure that you know that the bottom of conifers is especially dry and raped of nutrients. Dryopteris will not do well there - they can deal with dry spells but are hardly succulents and they prefer dampish well draining soil.

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