blairs


Latest posts by blairs

going-bananas

Posted: 17/08/2013 at 23:42

@David Smith3

Fine so far (this is second summer). I cut off the leaves in late October, removed most of the soil and roots and left it on its side to drain then left in my frost free garage and kept it dry until early April. I had to remove some mould a few times, so worth looking at them over winter. It kept pushing out leaves which is a bit of a pain but shows what strong plants they are. If you have a small Ensete seedling (say less than 30cm) then I think it better to keep it at a sunny window though the light levels really are not going to keep it happy but better safe than sorry. Waking them up can be an issue after winter, but a week in a warm spot - a hot water cupboard for example, will speed things up.

Musa basjoo - first year I kept in frost free garage, this year they will be covered in straw and wrapped to keep the frost off but air around it. I do live near the sea, so it is a milder micro-climate.

going-bananas

Posted: 17/08/2013 at 20:07

Musa basjoo is the one to go for. Ensete ventricosum v Maurelii and the plain Ensete ventricosum are reliable to come back after storing in a frost free place or with the leaves in a conservatory. They are the 3 have have. Cavendish are the Musa that we get edible bananas from but unless you have a large heated conservatory you are unlikely to get them here and they are difficult to over winter.

Ensete ventricosum, Ensete ventricosum,

beech-tree/-beech-hedge-

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 16:10

Am now in year 3 for my wildlife hedge (60ft long all seed grown from local trees) and it is jus tnow bulking out. There was an old field hedge there before the house was built so I feel that I am giving something back, I hope!

moving-house-and-taking-the-garden-too

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 16:08

Move all the pots and troughs now, even just lifting and putting them back in the same place. You do not want to get to the moving day and find pots that have broken and all the contents spill out as you move them.

addressing-a-newly-seeded-lawn

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 16:04

The grass will thicken but I would be tempted to fork over the bare areas (which will help drainage), add sandy compost, some grass seed and then some more sandy compost to fill those areas out and keep watering the lawn. You have done well as seeded lawns can take a year or so to look good.

Cutting the lawn - I would wait till it it looks like it needs it, longer the better but certainly you can cut it before then end of this month if you use the highest mower setting.

If the water pooling continues then keep forking over the lawn and adding sandy compost afterwards to keep the lawn decompacted.

beech-tree/-beech-hedge-

Posted: 15/08/2013 at 09:25

@flowersforbees

Hedges sit and do little for the first 2 years as they put down roots. Year three onwards expect them to get thicker and taller by up to 30cm. You will need to improve the soil before planting where Leylandii was as the soil will have no nutrients left

beech-tree/-beech-hedge-

Posted: 12/08/2013 at 10:38

Beech whips cost pennies, esp bare root. Beech is unlikely to grow from clippings as they are poor are putting out roots and dry out and die. Wait a few months and buy a hedge - at least you will know they will leaf in Spring.

planting-dahlia-from-seeds

Posted: 12/08/2013 at 10:35

Dahlia Imperialis is very easy from seed. They get to around 1 metre in their first year then rocket afterwards. If lucky you get flowers late in autumn - so more foliage/bamboo affect.

amelanchier

Posted: 07/08/2013 at 23:57

Does not help you now, but Amelanchier do fine in my clay soil. I just break up the area around it mix in soil and bark (to keep the soil around the roots light) and it has been growing away.

Bamboo

Posted: 07/08/2013 at 23:53

Phyllostachys is not clump forming! They are slow to run but will do.

Fargesia are clump forming and are the ones to go for for a border screen.

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