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BobTheGardener


Latest posts by BobTheGardener

Shallots

Posted: 20/06/2013 at 18:56

KEF, Jersey Royal seed potatoes can be bought as "International kidney", however you're quite right in that they don't taste as good as those grown in Jersey!  They used to use seaweed on the south-facing slopes to grow them in but I suspect that is a dieing practice.  Spuds do taste different depending on the soil - best bet is to keep trying different varieties each year until you find some that taste good when grown in your plot.  Anya are the best tasting in my garden.

Summer has arrived

Posted: 19/06/2013 at 22:56

Some beautiful plants in the photos everyone!  We must remember to enjoy the fruits of our efforts especially at this time of the year and this thread is a great way to do it.

I find it's all too easy to be kept so busy weeding, watering etc that I sometimes forget to just sit in the garden and enjoy looking at it!

Shallots

Posted: 19/06/2013 at 22:37

Verdun, I lift the lot after the leaves have died back like WW.

Fairygirl: You plant one shallot from the previous year and it splits into several new shallots which grow outwards in a circle.  When you cut a mature shallot open, you can see there are several parts, a bit like a garlic bulb but not separated by skin into cloves.  Each part grows into a new bulb the next year:

http://science.howstuffworks.com/life/botany/shallot-info.htm

 

Summer has arrived

Posted: 18/06/2013 at 22:22

Just before I came in 3 swifts came very low and swooped through a low part of a hedge (just as I stood up from weeding) passing just a couple of feet over my head  - they are quite big birds when you see them up close and coming straight at you!   About 18" wingspan I would guess.

Any know what these plants are ?

Posted: 18/06/2013 at 22:11

Scabiosa.  Several suppliers were selling "Blue jeans" this year - I have some too.

 

Turnip Root Worm

Posted: 18/06/2013 at 18:41

Hi Suzanne, depends what 'root worm' is.  If it's cabbage root fly which attacks all brassicas - see here:

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?PID=646

then planting any other brassicas in their place will very likely be a problem.  You could treat the area with Nemasys Grow Your Own (as mentioned in the RHS link above) which is a mixture of nematodes which prey on cabbage root fly (and many other pests) and will help to clear up the problem.  Crop rotation is a must once you have had a root fly infestation, so don't grow any brassicas in that piece of ground next year.

Delphiniums

Posted: 18/06/2013 at 00:24

It can be hit and miss as to whether you get a second flush - depends on the weather.  Some varieties will self seed, others (F1s) are often sterile.  I've grown seeds from some of mine (parents were all blue) and got a mixture of colours, but many were quite bland (eg dirty whites and some with sparse flowers.)  One thing I've learnt from experience is to cut them down right to the ground at the end of the year.  I left some until the next spring once (I usually leave most of my plants uncut to provide winter cover for wildlife) but found that the next year the flowers had all been eaten when they were small by caterpillars of the delphinium moth.  They overwinter inside the hollow stems..

Sick Tomato Plant

Posted: 17/06/2013 at 22:43

They all look nice and healthy to me.  Slight curling of the leaves is perfectly normal - all it indicates is that the temperature is varying a little more then would be ideal.  This can be improved by ensuring all the vents and door are open and if this is not enough, providing some shading from very hot sun (eg shade netting.)  Try and keep the maximum temperature below 30C.  If the temperature is dropping to below about 12C at night, then close the vents and door.  A max-min thermometer (under £10) is extremely useful to monitor what is happening in a greenhouse and I wouldn't be without mine.

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=732

 

CANE HOLDERS

Posted: 17/06/2013 at 21:20

I think the keywords you need are  "cane supports" - Google finds several suppliers.

Fruit cages - DIY options?

Posted: 17/06/2013 at 20:19

For the netting, you want insects to get through to pollinate the fruit but not birds so holes need to be about 20mm (=2cm, 3/4"), which will let bumble bees through.  As far as the supporting structure goes, it's all a matter of how long it will last.  Canes will be only be good for a couple of years or so before the section in the ground rots.  Making fruit cages can be tricky as you need to secure the netting to the frame and make a door or other way of entering but if you're good at DIY then you can certainly save some money.  You could use something like cheap PVC overflow pipe (about 50p per metre) for which you can buy various connectors (eg 90 degree bends, T-pieces) to form a frame and perhaps wire ties (or a hot glue gun?) to secure the netting to it.  Some folk use this stuff to make polytunnel frames, too.

Discussions started by BobTheGardener

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1 to 15 of 17 threads