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BobTheGardener


Latest posts by BobTheGardener

More Plant ID please

Posted: 13/04/2014 at 16:19

I agree with Dove.  If you absolutely must move it before the Autumn, then wait until it has flowered and snip off the dead flower heads.  Then transplant as in Dove's advice and water it every day for a week or two, then once a week (even if it has rained) until it dies back in the Autumn.  It will probably sulk though and not produce flowers for a couple of years.

Courgette

Posted: 13/04/2014 at 16:10

Better to start them inside, OL.  They don't like the low temperatures at night in a cold GH.  A sunny windowsill indoors is perfect.

Courgette

Posted: 13/04/2014 at 14:21

Hi LL, I start mine off in 7cm pots and transfer to 15cm which is big enough to keep them in until you plant out.  When there is a lot of leaf area, you do need to keep up with the watering as they dry out fast!

More Plant ID please

Posted: 13/04/2014 at 12:34

The first one is a peony - looking at yours, the flowers will be out soon and are fantastic!

Not sure about the second one - need to wait a bit to see the leaf shape.

 

What are these infiltrators?

Posted: 13/04/2014 at 12:29

I'm pretty sure that is Black Bryony, a wild plant which I also have growing in part of my garden.  It has lovely glossy heart-shaped leaves and stunning berries later in the year.  It is a member of the yam family and grows from a large underground root.  It can overwhelm shrubs and small trees if allowed to grow through them, so I give it a large cane to grow up.

http://www.jeremybartlett.co.uk/2012/02/07/black-bryony-tamus-communis/

http://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/B/Bryony(Black)/Bryony(Black).htm

 

 

crocus for plug plants?

Posted: 12/04/2014 at 21:10

Crocus plugs are usually ok.  The best thing to do with plugs is to plant them into small pots using multi-purpose compost as soon as they arrive - I usually use 7cm square ones from Wilko.  It's important not to leave them as plugs for any length of time as they have been grown in special conditions and won't survive long if not given some TLC.  Grow them in the small pots for at least a couple of weeks before finally planting out into their final pots or containers etc.

Lily of the Valley

Posted: 12/04/2014 at 11:20

From my experience, Lily of the valley has no 'mid ground';  It either won't establish and dies on you or decides to invade your garden taking no prisoners!  A bit like an awkward child really - you either can't get them into their bed at night or can't get them out of it in the morning!

Weeds!

Posted: 09/04/2014 at 21:03

My money is on the couch grass which nut suggested.  Gently dig down on one and see if the blade is connected to a horizontal white/brown root to confirm.  If so, you need to carefully remove all of that although spot treatment of the blades with glyphosate sometimes kills it.  If you break the root whilst cultivating the soil, each piece grows - it's almost as bad as bindweed in that way.

Food for blooms

Posted: 09/04/2014 at 20:49

For flowers (and fruit), you want a fertiliser with more Potassium (the K in NPK.)  Choose a general fertiliser with a quoted NPK (actually N:P:K) ratio of, say, 5:5:15 or similar.  Tomato feed is an easily available example.  If you are growing in the ground and have prepared the soil well by using manure or home made compost before planting, additional fertiliser is usually not needed, but growing in pots benefits after about 6 weeks as the fertiliser incorporated into multi-purpose compost is usually exhausted by then.  See the RHS advice to learn more about fertilisers, here:

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?PID=304

 

Buddleias

Posted: 08/04/2014 at 17:49

Take some cuttings from the bits that look OK.  A few weeks ago I simply pulled a few bits off of a variegated one I often walk by, stuck them in my coat pocket and planted in a 50/50 mix of grit and compost when I got home.  2 out of three have now rooted. 

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1 to 15 of 27 threads