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Latest posts by BobTheGardener

plant ID

Posted: 11/09/2014 at 16:58

It's probably a type of amaranthus, but a lot of those are weeds.  When that flower develops, if it is small and not very pretty, it's probably one of the weedy ones and I would have it out before seeds form (they produce thousands and you may end-up with it appearing everywhere!)



Discoloured skin n outdoor grown tomatoes

Posted: 11/09/2014 at 16:49

Some of the viruses can produce that sort of damage.  There are about 20 of them.  Difficult one this as the damage doesn't match well with images of typical tomato diseases.  It does look like late blight but I would expect lots of obvious symptoms on the leaves and stems and for the diseased areas to be near the top of the tomato.

My money is on a virus.

Help with Wisteria

Posted: 11/09/2014 at 16:40

Because it's only a young plant you should just train and tie-in the longer growths to where you want them as this will form the future structure.  Once it has grown to the size you want, proceed as per fidget's instructions to maximise flowering.


plant ID

Posted: 11/09/2014 at 16:34

Any smell when you rub a leaf?

ID help please. Weed or not?

Posted: 10/09/2014 at 20:21

Probably foxgloves.

Flowers to Grow in Allotment

Posted: 10/09/2014 at 20:20

How about Helichrysum (aka strawflowers, paper daisies and everlasting flowers) which you can also use as dried flowers by cutting and hanging upside down just before they are fully open?  I grew some this year which were very easy and seemed resistant to slugs and other pests):

Container grown Acer

Posted: 10/09/2014 at 16:43

PJ4, if planting in the garden make sure you don't have alkaline soil as even if you mix ericaceous compost into soil, it won't last long.  If your soil is alkaline (eg chalky or if you live in a limestone area), grow them in large pots instead.

Otherwise, prepare the planting hole well - time and effort spent on that will repay itself manifold in the future.  Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the pots they came in, mix some well-rotted farmyard manure or homemade compost with the soil from the hole, add some ericaceous compost, grit and some blood, fish and bone fertiliser following the instructions on the pack.  Plant them so the base of the trunk sits at precisely the same level in the ground as it did in the pot and in a position where they will not get a lot of wind or any early morning sun.  Water them in well and once a week until the leaves fall in Autumn.  They should then thrive without any further attention needed for many years.

What am I?

Posted: 09/09/2014 at 20:12
nutcutlet wrote (see)

I fear that's HF. But any fungus growing out of a live tree is not good news in the long term

 My thoughts exactly, nut.  Sorry it's such bad news Heather.

Oak tree problems

Posted: 09/09/2014 at 15:59

The issue with chestnut trees is another invader, this time a leaf miner:

Fortunately, it only causes leaf disfigurement and early leaf fall.  At this point in time it is thought not to affect the long term health of the trees.


Sieving soil - compaction?

Posted: 08/09/2014 at 22:03

As long as you are adding organic matter, worms will thrive keeping the soil aerated (plant roots need air as well as water and nutrients) and the soil will look after itself.  Mulching the surface with composted manure will allow as natural a cycle as is possible with cultivated soil.  Nature does perfectly well without our help but when we cultivate crops, we must add back the nutrients which we remove in the form of crops and the best known way of doing that is by mulching with compost and manure.  Worms pull the organic matter back down into the soil and digest it.  The worm casts they produce are considered the perfect plant food.

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