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Latest posts by BobTheGardener

mulching advice please

Posted: 07/04/2013 at 13:40

If in doubt, compost it first for at least 6 months.  This will break down any growth-retarding natural chemicals that the leaves may contain.  If you don't have a compost heap, you could put  the shreddings into a black bin liner, wet them, tie the bag closed and poke a few holes in it, then hide behind a shrub etc. for a year. That's how I make my leaf-mould, too.

using ash from wood and brickettes in the garden

Posted: 07/04/2013 at 13:32

Wood ash is good for use around the garden but avoid using it on any plants which prefer acid conditions as it is alkaline.  I would advise against using the briquette ash though as it may contain traces of heavy metals which are not good for plants or animals, including us.

Plants to avoid using the wood ash on include (but are not limited to): Acer, Azalea, Camelia, Heather, Rhododendron, Blueberry, Cranberry, Raspberry, Apple, Grape, Strawberry, Potato.  If you aren't sure about a particular plant, use google and search for the plant name and add "growing conditions" to see if it prefers acid soil (pH lower than 6.5) - if so, avoid using the wood ash on it.

Rhubarb in pots

Posted: 06/04/2013 at 20:19

Hi lavenderlass, check that you haven't accidentaly clicked 'Ignore' on your own avatar.

To fix it, go to Settings and unignore yourself.

Good news about the rhubarb!


PS, the site 'my posts' thing is currently broken for everyone - they are working on a fix.

Good Evening FORKERS

Posted: 06/04/2013 at 18:46

Great weather and got a lot done.

The 72 bedding plugs which arrived this morning turned into well over 100 when potted-on into modules as many of them had more than one plant so I separated those which would easily come apart. The tomatoes which came up earlier this week spent the day in the GH and look really healthy, with he sungold now showing true leaves - I'll bring 'em indoors tonight though.  Also got a cheap rhubarb from wilko, so that's gone in the ground today, too.


Posted: 06/04/2013 at 18:36

Hi Maureen, yes but mix it in well othewise it may take a long time to rot down.  Large amounts may attract vermin too, so I wouldn't add more than a pound or so in one go.

plum trees - problems

Posted: 06/04/2013 at 15:50

Hi Ina, it's still a bit early for many varieties of plum, particularly the late cropping ones.  Hopefully you have small buds visible?  What variety is it?


Posted: 06/04/2013 at 15:45

Hi joanne, don't cut it back hard as lavender doesn't often grow new shoots on old wood, so doing that will almost definitely be the end of it.  If it still has the flower stalks on it, cut those off, about 1-2cm into green(ish!) leaves, below.  Most of mine look very sad at the moment, but there is still hope yet as the weather is only just starting to warm up, something it really needs.  RHS pruning advice here:



Posted: 06/04/2013 at 12:26

Had 72 summer bedding plugs delivered thsi morning, so just back from buying 10 new seed trays and module fillers as I'd run out.  Rapidly running out of space in the GH, cold frame and conservatory and still have a lot of seeds to sow.  If we have another really cold snap, they'll be big trouble!


Posted: 06/04/2013 at 12:18

I agree with others - get it in the ground where it will grow much better.  They are one of the easiest and most trouble free fruit plants you can grow.

Need help with different types of plants

Posted: 06/04/2013 at 12:15

I'll also recommend aquilegias for clay and part shade.  They are a trouble free, long lived perennial and come in a wide range of variations of colour and flower shape.   For climbers, most clematis are happy in part shade, too, but dig a deep hole and mix in plenty of organic matter.  In fact many of the large flowered group 2 clematis prefer it and show thier best flower colour in part shade.  Foxgloves also do well in the same conditions.

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1 to 15 of 25 threads