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BobTheGardener


Latest posts by BobTheGardener

Beans - All sorts - Soil Prep

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 18:24

Broad beans are much less fussy than runner and other climbing beans and I have no trouble growing those with minimal soil preparation.

Moving rhubarb

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 18:22

I think spring is safer as the plant will start actively growing then and any damage to the roots you cause when transplanting (and some is inevitable) would heal quickly, whereas rot may set in on the damaged parts if you move it now.  Just my own preference of course - the opinion of others may differ as some folk do move them in autumn.

How long does Roundup last in the soil?

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 17:58

Covering the rockery will stop other weeds but the ground elder roots will survive and you need to uncover them in spring, wait for them to produce lots of foliage and then spray with Roundup and wait for them to completely die before pulling up the dead foliage.  Ground elder is a tough weed and usually not killed by the first treatment either, so you need to wait for a few more weeks and then treat the new growth again.  It usually takes a whole season to be completely rid of it.  Don't be tempted to try and dig-out the roots after the first treatment as each broken piece left may grow into new plants and you'll be back to square one!

Sowing Carrots all year long

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 17:51

Carrot seeds probably won't germinate if you sow them now - they need warm soil.  To have carrots all year round you need to grow several types, some which grow quickly that you sow several times from spring to mid-summer and you eat those when needed. Early Nantes are good for that.  The other type you sow in spring and then lift them during late autumn or early winter and store them in damp sand for eating over the winter.  These types are much larger and a good variety for doing that is Autumn King.  You can leave them in the ground if you don't want to lift and store them.  The tops die off so you also need to remember where they are and when left in the ground they are prone to slug and other pest damage. 

Beans - All sorts - Soil Prep

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 15:43

Newboy2, what a lot of us do is dig a trench now and keep throwing in vegetable matter such as kitchen waste and shredded garden prunings, pulled-up annual weeds and the like, often adding shredded newspaper and cardboard.  At the end of the winter, we cover the open trench with soil and by the time it comes to bean-planting time, it will have all rotted down and will help to hold moisture deep down which bean roots love.

You can grow just about anything in raised beds with the possible exception of the taller brassicas as those need firm soil to do well.  Beans usually thrive providing you keep up with the watering.

Winter greenhouse

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 13:50

If you have any outdoor potted semi-hardy plants you can give them protection by bringing them into the GH.  If you plant bulbs in pots they will flower a week or three earlier Inside the GH.  I always have few pots of bulbs in there over the winter.

Fruit trees

Posted: 12/10/2014 at 12:37

Barry, most fruit trees are grafted onto different rootstocks so see if you can find the graft points.  If the only growth is from below that point it means the grafts have failed and you would be well advised to replace the trees as the growth from the rootstocks won't produce decent fruit.  The graft union will look a bit "knobbly" like this image I grabbed from google:

http://s3.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/61933.jpg?width=350

If there is some growth above the union you will be OK but must remove all growth from below it or the (usually wild tree) rootstock will take over and the fruiting tree which has been grafted on to it will die.

Mould

Posted: 11/10/2014 at 18:27

Yvie -

Fairy is right as well, once the cuttings have roots they don't need the heat any more, just sheltered conditions with plenty of light.

Evergreen jasmine - when to prune?

Posted: 11/10/2014 at 18:20

Is it an indoor type?  There are only a couple of evergreen outdoor types and those are really semi-evergreen in the UK.  Like most shrubs, pruning is generally best done immediately after flowering so I would re-pot it and just tidy the broken and bent bits for now by pruning back to a bud or just above a leaf joint.

Pruning roses

Posted: 11/10/2014 at 18:02

That one is a climbing hybrid tea rose.  You can prune them hard when needed and do that over the winter.  Start by cutting out any damaged or diseased bits, then cut some of the oldest stems right down to the ground and prune the remaining long ones by about a third.  For more details,  look under 'renovating overgrown climbers' on this RHS page:

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=189

Step back a few times during any kind of pruning to make sure the overall shape seems balanced.  In general, hard pruning leads to new strong growth so don't worry too much about a good cut-back which will likely do much more good than harm.

 

Discussions started by BobTheGardener

Little Red Devils (Lily beetles)

They're about now! 
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Have fun identifying plants! 
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Bob's guide to picking soft fruit

Only fto be read by your household's main gardener! 
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Lovely surprise

I went down the garden in the gloom.. 
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Flew into the polytunnel for a while 
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A week of rain = jungle garden!

It's been too wet to really do anything outside.. 
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Deep Down & Dirty: The Science of soil

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Check your delphiniums for caterpillars

Look for distorted and damaged leaves near the tips 
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Seed grown Wisteria finally in flower - Hooray!

Planted many years ago 
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Last Post: 15/04/2014 at 12:39

Oops!

Polytunnel growing 
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First day of (meteorological) Spring

How id your garden looking 
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Last Post: 03/03/2014 at 20:31
1 to 15 of 27 threads