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BobTheGardener


Latest posts by BobTheGardener

leaf curl on fruit tree

Posted: 06/07/2014 at 21:30

If they have gone I wouldn't bother removing the distorted leaves as they aren't diseased as such, just distorted and will still be supplying goodness to the fruit.  Do think about using an organic winter fruit tree wash to try and stop them doing the same thing next year though.  The aphid eggs overwinter on the tree and start on the buds as they open.

Glass cutter

Posted: 06/07/2014 at 21:23

I agree with phlox - old glass is a PITA to cut due to stresses that build up over time.  Old horticultural glass is dangerous stuff to handle, too, so do take great care KEF.

leaf curl on fruit tree

Posted: 06/07/2014 at 21:12

Rich, check with a magnifying glass as 'plum leaf curl aphids' are much smaller than ordinary ones and difficult to see for most people.  I think that is why buddyboy asked, as the symptoms look exactly like your trees show. 

The RHS advice on plum problems is here:

http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/fruit/plums#problems

 

 

Silver Birch dropping yellow/black spotted leaves

Posted: 06/07/2014 at 17:23

Yes, many birches near me get this and don't seem any the worse for it.  Some other types of tree come in to leaf late to avoid pests and diseases while birches seem to favour dropping affected leaves and growing new ones.  I'm sure it will[ be fine and the majority of plant diseases are specific to just a few related species so It's unlikely to affect anything else in the vicinity.  The chances are it was a fungal infection carried by aphids.

Kale & Beans

Posted: 06/07/2014 at 13:05

Scroggin, I plant a seed close to the roots of each sweetcorn plant when they are about 10-12 inches high, otherwise the beans will easily outgrow the corn.  As the beans grow, they are trained to twine round one corn stem, then over to another etc, so they do not climb vertically as such - the bean stems are used to 'tie' the corn stems together.  When there is enough support for the corn crop, I nip the tips of the beans off.  There are usually beans available for harvesting well before any cobs are ready.  After harvesting the cobs, if the beans are still cropping, I leave the whole shebang and cut down when everything dies in early winter.  Any beans harvested are really a bonus as their primary purpose is to provide nitrogen for, and to support, the corn.   

Oh dear.....I think I may have made a mistake!!!

Posted: 05/07/2014 at 23:32

Hi yarrow, it was an annual and died at the end of the season.  I kept the seeds from it but they didn't come 'true' and looked nothing like the one I took the photo of, unfortunately!

Can i uncover carrots yet?

Posted: 05/07/2014 at 22:05

I went for years untroubled by carrot fly and no-one near me seems to grow any veg, but since it first appeared it has been an absolute menace, so I'd say better safe than sorry snowathlete!  Use horticultural fleece - it's very inexpensive eg:

http://www.garden-netting.co.uk/acatalog/Standard_Fleece.html

(no connection - just a random google result)

apple tree

Posted: 05/07/2014 at 21:55

Just spotted that it's only a year old - you wouldn't normally let such a young tree produce fruit Sandra, but just a couple should be OK.  Flowering rose is right though - it's important to prune young apple trees correctly which is done in mid-winter and encourages growth.  Have a look at the RHS advice on how to prune young trees:

http://rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=164

Doing it properly will pay dividends in the years to come.   Once you have the shape right (after about 3-4 years), you can start to summer prune (early August) to enhance fruit production.

 

 

Kale & Beans

Posted: 05/07/2014 at 21:42

Anything climbing, Dove - I usually use French beans like Cobra but have used runners - whatever I have spare.

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1 to 15 of 25 threads