Latest posts by BobTheGardener

Plum tree leaves

Posted: 09/07/2016 at 00:25

Shot hole disease, Passionate.  Trees are much more susceptible when there is lots of wet weather about (ring any bells?!)  Some tips here:

Due to the unavailability of suitable fungicides these days (withdrawn as they were found to be toxic or carcinogenic to humans and other animals), your best bet is to remove the worst affected parts and clear the ground when the leaves have all dropped in winter.  Lay a couple of inches of well-rotted manure under the tree as a mulch after clearing all dead leaves (which should be burnt) which will cover any spores on the ground and help feed the tree so it will be stronger and better able to fight off infection in the spring.  You could also give the trunk and branches a spray with a 'winter tree wash' in winter which also reduce the chances of it coming  back next year.

Last edited: 09 July 2016 00:32:52

Another plant ID please

Posted: 08/07/2016 at 21:43

It might be a verbascum.  Not the common one (Mullein) - there are lots of other varieties grown in gardens these days which don't have furry leaves and the seeds are so fine they get blown a long way in the wind.

Problems with tomatoes

Posted: 07/07/2016 at 18:52

I agree, that one has extreme variety in the shape and colour of the fruit but is one of the tastiest.  I grow those mainly for cooking so they get diced and the 'cat faced' appearance is irrelevant.

Last edited: 07 July 2016 18:52:56

how does I collect seeds of my Fuchsia?

Posted: 07/07/2016 at 18:44

If you want to increase your stock, it's infinitely easier to take cuttings iamto.  Fuchsia seeds may prove to be very tricky to germinate and keeping seedlings alive over winter will also be difficult.  However, if you are into the challenge I wish you the best of luck and you may end up with an exciting new variety.


Posted: 06/07/2016 at 19:02

They'll be fine and will still bulk up Typhoo.  I always cut aquilegia back to the ground after flowering as most of the leaves are a bit tatty by then.  The new leaves will not only feed the roots for next year but will also be more pleasing to the eye.

Erysimum leaves

Posted: 04/07/2016 at 18:42

As long as you have removed all of the caterpillars they will be fine.  The damaged leaves will be shed as the cuttings start to grow more strongly.  They probably need potting on into individual pots now.

Anyone done any gardening today - Version 2

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 18:22

Also sorted the tomatoes Fairy - needed tieing to the horizontal support wire in the GH and sideshooting (if only the fruit grew as fast as the sideshoots!)  Weather superb today, mainly sunny but a few passing clouds to keep it cool enough to work in the GH.  Planted out some pelargoniums to fill gaps in the border until the dahlias fill out.  Don't normally use pels but took a load of cuttings early in the year from ones used as houseplants and had far too many so why not!   Lots of weeding and putting in supports for all the things which shot up during the last few rainy weeks.  Really hoping the summer is finally coming especially as I've a week off after next week.

Brave enough to ID this young apple?!

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 14:17

That explains it c3k.  It is looking very healthy!

Remedial pruning a Group 2 clematis

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 11:36

If you want to cut it back hard, wait until late winter and cut it back to 30 to 90cm from the ground.  Doing that every 3 or 4 years is an alternative way of pruning group 2 clematis.  However, if there are any strong shoots you can cut back to just above those now.

I once cut 'The President' right back to the ground in later Winter and was rewarded by it sending up 11 shoots from below ground in the spring!    Since then I've done this to quite a few large flowered early clematis to which I'd neglected pruning and nearly all of them responded in a similar way although I did lose one or two as I think slugs got the new shoots before I'd noticed them appearing.

Bio Dynamic Gardening

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 11:10

Perhaps you could give us all a quick overview of this rather than us having to google the term, biofreak?  Many of us here are organic gardeners who would rather just gently nudge nature in the direction we would prefer it to go rather than adhere to any artificial regime or use chemicals.  Is 'bio dynamic' different to that?

Discussions started by BobTheGardener

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1 to 15 of 36 threads