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Latest posts by BobTheGardener

Tree identification

Posted: 27/04/2014 at 12:00

I used the 'snipping tool' in Windows 7, nut, which is in 'Accessories' in the Programs menu.  It allows you to select an area of screen which it captures to a file.  I had to resize the image though as my first attempt came out very small.  I used a free image editor called 'Irfanview' to do that and add the red circle.

Tree identification

Posted: 27/04/2014 at 11:43

 Hi Justine, it should appear when you click 'submit reply' or start a new post.  It doesn't work on phones though - you need a PC or laptop etc.  Here's an image of what it looks like:




Posted: 27/04/2014 at 11:35

I agree with paull2.  The medium range forecast says we could have night temps dropping to as low as 1C from next Friday for at least a week so be wary about leaving chilies, peppers and tomatoes unprotected in an unheated greenhouse overnight.

Help,peach tree trouble

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 15:16

Yes, looks like a pretty bad case although there are plenty of healthy leaves.  Try picking off all affected leaves and see how it goes.  If you decide to replace it, I can recommend Avalon Pride which is very resistant.  A few leaves do become affected on mine, but only a dozen or so each year and I just remove them as soon as I see them.  It's a good cropper of full-size peaches.  Mine came on Mont Clare rootstock and is now about 2m x 2m after 8 years, so relatively small for a peach tree.

Lifted onion sets

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 15:06

I do exactly the same as Colin but use standard modules.  Since starting sets off this way in the GH, I've always had good crops and no problem with birds pulling them up.

Tree Growth

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 14:00

That looks a pretty good shape to me and it will start showing new shoots soon (it's a bit early for them to appear yet on an olive grown outside in the UK.)  Have a look at the RHS advice on growing and pruning olive trees:



Posted: 26/04/2014 at 13:56

They do need a year or three to settle in and start cropping well.  In the first year or two you want to encourage them to grow new strong stems, preferably from the base (snip off any weak, spindly growth.)  Feed them with a proprietary ericaceous liquid feed every few weeks and you should be fine next year.  If you can get any ericaceous bark chippings or similar mulch, they do appreciate a layer of that on top of the compost as they have lots of roots near the surface and this helps to protect them from drying out.

Tulip Care

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 12:49

Hi Helga, yes you can snip the flower stems off.  What sort of tulips are they?  Most of the 'fancy' types do not usually come back well in the second year and many  gardeners treat them as annuals, digging them up after flowering so they can plant summer bedding plants etc.  I leave them in but have lots of hardy perennials in my beds which are now starting to grow and will cover the dying tulip foliage.  If you do leave them in, it's important to remove the leaves once those die as they carry a virus called 'tulip fire' which will otherwise very likely affect the tulips badly next year.

Tree Growth

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 12:34

Normally, if the growing point at the top of the main trunk is cut off (and it sounds like this has been done to your tree) one branch near the top will become dominant and is known as the 'leader'.  This will become the new trunk in time.  Can you post a photo of the whole tree so we can have a look at how it is currently growing?  It may need some formative pruning to help it grow into a good shape in the future.

Chili Hardiness

Posted: 26/04/2014 at 11:14

Chilies and peppers really need a minimum night temperature of 12C to grow really well.  From my own experience, anything under 5C can kill them, or at least badly stunt their growth and they take a long time to recover from having their growth 'checked' like that.  I'd keep bringing them in at night until June.


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1 to 15 of 25 threads