BobTheGardener


Latest posts by BobTheGardener

What is this tomato?

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 15:54

I wonder if the seed plants which the wholesale suppliers breed to distribute the seeds to retail merchants were accidentally crossed with a more dominant variety last year?  I've grown Galina which is a yellow Siberian cherry variety which crops until it gets frosted and is very vigorous so is a potential parent.

Last edited: 11 September 2016 15:55:36

Single plant in tub question

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 15:49

Like many clump-formers, these plants do tend to become less productive in the centre over time.  In the longer term, you would be better off by lifting and spliting them when growth starts again in the spring.  Replant sections from the outside and discard the woody old centres.

I want to create my first winter pot

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 15:40

Ren, you certianly need to drill some holes in the bottom of the whisky barrel if using it as a planter.  Eight to ten 10mm diameter holes would be enough.  Alternatively, it would make a pretty nice mini-water garden as it does hold water and you could (say) plant (just one) miniature water lily in it for instance.


As far as bulbs go, I always use minaiture varieties of narcissi in pots as the standard types usually flop and look horrible as they are finishing.  I also only use 3 different types of bulbs when layering - tulips at the lowest layer then narcissi and crocus for instance.  There are some beautiful varieties of crocus if you look around although many of the more unusual varieties don't last for me.  To be perfectly honest, I treat all bulbs in containers as annuals as tulips and many crocus don't come back well.  When I empty them, everything goes into the borders and what survives, survives, everything else turns into natural compost!

Last edited: 11 September 2016 15:41:40

Help!

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 14:50

Some good advice from Ladybird there.  It also looks like it is planted in an aquatic mesh pot which is far from ideal as that will let the frost get to the roots when you overwinter it.  Plant it into a solid pot (plastic or terracotta, it matters not which.)

Last edited: 11 September 2016 14:50:51

Poorly Laurel Hedge

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 14:42

The holes look like they could be caused by adult vine weevils which are one of the few pests which seem able to resist the poison in laurel leaves.  However, I find it difficult to believe their grubs could damage the roots of an established laurel to the extent that would cause the yellow patches, so suspect that is a general nutrient deficiency.  Give them a feed of fish, blood and bone in spring which should sort that out.  I would also put down a good 4 inch layer of home-made compost or well-rotted farmyard manure in about a month's time.  The worms will incorporate this into the soil thus improving it over time and helping it to not dry out.  Don't put the mulch down until after a good few weeks of rain has already thoroughly soaked the soil though or it will have the opposite effect.

Last edited: 11 September 2016 14:46:50

Murphy's Sequestrene

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 14:27

That particular brand seems no longer available (this same topic came up a year or two ago.)


Search for "sequestered iron feed" which is what this stuff is.

Plants dying?

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 14:14

Agree with Tetley, Hogweed & Palaisglide to some extent.


However, I've just read all of your previous posts Cat3 and can see this is a new build and you described your garden as boggy and have had lots of plant and tree problems.


I think the issue is that you are on a particularly tricky type of clay and plants have been put into holes in the clay which have been filled with bought-in topsoil.  This is a recipe for disaster as when the clay is boggy, the water drains into the planting holes which act as sumps and the plants and trees suffer from waterlogging which makes the roots rot.  When the weather becomes drier, the clay turns into a concrete-like layer and sucks all of the water out (as evidenced by your dry looking grass.)  Because of the damaged roots, the trees are unable to support the leaves and this leads to premature leaf drop or even death.


There is no easy way to solve this issue other than by wholesale improvement of your soil by incorporating large amounts of organic matter (mushroom compost being a relatively inexpensive way of obtaining this.)  Adding large amounts of grit would help too.  From you previous posts I also note that you are unable to do this work yourself and employ gardeners so would suggest that rather then spending lots of money on expensive plants (and gardeners which don't seem to be very good) that you invest in getting a landscaping firm in who can use machines to incorporate the soil improvers and rotovate it all in thoroughly.  Sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear but is the best advice I can offer.

Last edited: 11 September 2016 14:17:12

Raspberry canes - potassium problem?

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 13:54

Agree with fidgetbones.  Some of them may have died though - I have a success rate of about 75% when planting bare-root raspberries, regardless of type.  When planted in rows, nearby plants always send enough runners to colonise the gaps (and usually lots of other places where they are not wanted, too!)  It may take a couple of years before they become fully 'rampant'.

Last edited: 11 September 2016 13:55:08

I can't identify this plant

Posted: 11/09/2016 at 13:48

Indian Pokeweed (Phytolacca acinosa):


http://www.naturespot.org.uk/species/indian-pokeweed


Same stuff asAmerican Pokeweed.  Variable.

Last edited: 11 September 2016 13:50:18

Pear tree leaves

Posted: 10/09/2016 at 19:19

Do both Huddy.  Some years are worse than others but it's always worth keeping a close eye on your pears then pick off any leaves as soon as you see an orange spot appear.

Discussions started by BobTheGardener

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1 to 15 of 40 threads