- Planting from a very dry, exposed and windy balcony. Love to have a plot of my own one day.
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Yesterday at 18:10
The dried up brown leaves will not recover. You will need to prune all the crispy and droopy leaves out. Keeping them on will encourage infection to your shrub. You may need to be ruthless and prune quite far down from what I can see.
The issue is watering and possibly your plants were quite pot-bound due to its size. The roots needs to be teased away from itself before planting. They can take some time to settle in. Planting in warm weather for shrubs that size will mean high maintenance for you in the first two years. I would even suggest you cut some of the other shrubs down a bit to allow them to settle in the first year.
Yesterday at 18:01
Taxus Baccata, Yew hedge can grow quite fast and provided you prune them, they will not cause any issue with your drive.
Yesterday at 17:52
If you are in Scotland, a young shrub like Loropetalum Chinense is best kept in a pot for the first year until it is a lot larger to plant out. You may need to use fleece to protect it in extreme frost. Like most shrubs, once they establish, settle down and mature, they tend to be hardier.
Last edited: 18 January 2018 17:56:56
Yesterday at 17:45
If you get quite cold winters, the leaves will shed. Exposed windy conditions can also cause them to shed too. As soon as temperatures warm up in March, they will return. It's not really evergreen, it's semi-evergreen. Unless you have extremely mild winter weather, they may hold their leaves, but the leaves are not long lasting and will shed sooner or later.
2 days ago at 22:57
Do you know what type of soil you have by the old lawned area? Also, what is under all the current gravel. Helps to know if the area is ready for more deep rooted plants. Shrubs tend to be low maintenance in general. Evergreen shrubs will stand out year round, especially in winter, but shrubs that are not evergreen can offer changes through the season.
What level of low maintenance do you consider low maintence to be. For instance, six monthly pruning to shape and cutting down plants once a year and general tidy up is very low maintenance for me, but is that a bit too much work?
2 days ago at 22:26
The conditions for Lichen to thrive. Damp cool conditions and possibly lack of light. Can also thrive on slow growing shrubs/trees. I've seen them on many aged roses in open areas. If you don't want Lichen to thrive, you need to look into the cause. Branches may need pruning out, the growth may be weak and poor. But as mentioned, it doesn't damage the bark. It's sitting on the top surface and can be cleaned off carefully.
Last edited: 17 January 2018 22:27:17
2 days ago at 17:45
Your south west corner border is a perfect spot for many shrubs. It's all about shape and form, types of foliage etc. Not sure when you took those photos, but if it's now, your soil appears to be quite free draining for this time of year? Just working out your soil conditions. If you have free draining soil and you don't have massively cold winters, Rhamnus Alaternus the Italian Buckthorn will enjoy those conditions. The variatgated version is one of the best forms, and the shrub responds well to formal shaping and loose shaping. Flowers followed by berries, one of my favourite shrubs.
After hearing about your mention of Lidl, I saw a really special shrub at only £2 today in Morrisons. Responding to milder weathers, they are starting to stock some shrubs that have proven themselves in the UK over the last 10 years. They are now stocking Loropetalum Chinensis Firedance. Usually, this shrub will cost £15 for double its size, but smaller shrubs can become big quite fast, so a bargain in my view. Sweet winter flowers that is so striking against dark red ever green foliage.
My other recommendation has to be Sarcococca Confusa, another winter flowering shrub that is scented in the winter time. A great all-round shrub that is again great in an informal setting or shaped to form a hedge. This shrub is more suitable in moist soils, but again can cope in drier soils too.
Last edited: 17 January 2018 17:49:53
3 days ago at 18:34
I think raised beds are a good option. The area is narrow, by raising it upwards, you have instant height and maturity already. My previous neighbour's garden had two long raised beds on each side with the middle part with gravel. Then a pergola was built onto the ends of the garden to create height for climbers and create privacy. The area closest to the house, a nice seating area or a place to sit and eat and space for pots and troughs. Keeping the grass and working the soil will be very time consuming.
3 days ago at 18:23
The base of the tree can be quite dry, so you need plants more adapted to wide conditions. Provided it is in the sun and the canopy is quite high, Panicum Virgatum, Switch Grass should be able to cope. Ox-Eye Daisy, Leucanthemum Vulgare, Nepeta, Catmint and Pimpernella Major Rosea should do fine. You can plant cyclamens for the autumn winter display and keep the blue bells for spring.
On the south west corner, what about Caenothus, Californian Lilac. There are many types but Concha, one of the most widely available shrub will not disappoint if it is planted by a warm wall. Blue flowers for long periods from later spring into summer and dark glossy leaves throughout the year. Soil must be well prepared if you have heavy soil, but once settled in, they will perform.
3 days ago at 14:37
Any chance you could take another photo of this shrub but further out so the full form could be seen? They should be forming flowers from end of last year. The link did look like Viburnum Tinus, but the leaves looked extremely glossy but that could be time of day when originally taken. Just seems odd that at 6ft it's never flowered.
3 days ago at 18:30
It's all about the size of the area and what you want to grow in the area. You could plant up the area like you would in a traditional herbaceous border or have them confined inside a knot style border which is more formal and tends to be colour themed and more controlled. Like all new borders, spend time to work the soil over and add grit into the area to get the soil as free draining as possible. Although some plants like damper soils, on the whole, you can't go wrong with more drainage.
3 days ago at 18:19
Blackthorn is a good choice. It's a tough plant and will suit there. I'm not a fan fo Berberis Julianae, but it is also just as suitable. You can plant up a mixed hedge even if it is a small wall/fence. Hawthorn go well. Chaenomeles Japonica/Speciosa the ornamental quince shrub is also a nice shrub for a wall. Can be wall trained or loosely grown and has the most attractive flowers in the darkest months of the year followed by fruit if the summer has been hot.
Another shrub that will do well on your north aspect is Osmanthus Heterophyllus. Makes a nice dense barrier and good shrub other than holly if you are looking for a more formal look, but again, could be mixed with other shrubs too. Flowers and berries, what more could you ask for in a shrub.
14 Jan 2018 23:21
You can prune them back anytime from now to spring. Looking at your plant, you can give it a light prune down to half its current height to encourage branching out more, If not, you will have it shoot upwards with a few spindly sticks. A yearly prune should be enough. But you can cut off small branches throughout the season for flower arrangements.
Last edited: 14 January 2018 23:22:36
14 Jan 2018 22:46
There are many shrubs that respond well to pleaching/shaping to the way you want. Both Hornbeam and Beech hold their leaves well in the winter time so are classic candidates for the job you want. I like Cotoneaster Lacteus and Franchetii, and think they'll do a great job of what you need. Formal shaping or loose form, but they all need pruning and shaping carefully. Cotoneaster Cornubia is probably more graceful in a tree form if you have the space.
14 Jan 2018 22:24
A sunken pot could be an idea if you want to try to restrict the roots and slow down the growth. If you want to keep them bushy and act as a screen, then you should prune them down often to keep the foliage in juvenile form. If not, you will just have thin rods with minimal foliage low down because the plant wants to be a tree. Looking at your photo, the garden fence looks quite low, so I think, re-pot into a larger size pot and sink the pot into the soil.
Last edited: 14 January 2018 22:26:33
13 Jan 2018 12:00
Any chance you could post a photo of this? Doesn't sound like any issue other than a push for growth in warmer temperatures and sometimes leaves are not green until they mature more. Brown tips can sometimes indicate cold drying winds affecting young shoots, but again, all part of growing conditions.
Last edited: 13 January 2018 12:01:10
13 Jan 2018 11:47
Laguna343, I can see another bud to the right side. In my opinion, that is not too far down. You have another 2 buds after that. I don't think it is worth risking to keep a tear like that. It's a young tree, so less likely to fend for itself should there be a fungal infection. As you said, using a very sharp smooth edge knife, make a fast clean cut at a slant if you can't wait for repairing your secatuers.
13 Jan 2018 11:35
For many of them too early. I'm sowing cornflower around the first week in March and I'm based in the south. You can try Lychnis Coronaria now but I think it's best to keep them with cool steady temperatures, so if the greenhouse gets too warm, move them outside to a warm wall to keep the surroundings consistent with minimal fluctuation of temperatures.
Last edited: 13 January 2018 11:36:14
11 Jan 2018 18:30
Beautiful photos in winter already. On your raised flatter ground, you might want to form a wind break hedge on the upper parts. These areas, once protected will allow you to plant more sheltered plants. That could be a working kitchen garden, a herb garden, or even a formal knot garden. It's all a matter of how much time you have or are willing to give and how you will use it. You aleady have nice contours with soft undulations which allows for long sweeping borders for mixed planting with shrubs and smaller trees.
On a scale like that you either have to approach it bit by bit or start by mapping out the more permanent structures like trees and shrubs, then perennials and annuals another year. You can afford to theme your areas if you are really into gardening already. Example, grass borders, cutting garden, wild garden, orchards etc. Lucky you....
Last edited: 11 January 2018 18:32:10
11 Jan 2018 18:15
What is the orientation on that border? I think you need to be more generous on that border and dig into your lawn by another 2 feet. This allows you more space to grow some shrubs but also, increase the height on your side of the fence with some kind of lattice that allows you to grow climbers upwards. If you have a west facing or south facing wall there, try Solanum Crispum Glasnevin. Fairly fast growing and arching/lax habit that is semi evergreen in protected sites and plenty of colour in the summer months. Can be wall trained to cover vast areas. If you have a north or east wall, I recommend Pileostegia Viburnoides. Very easy to control and is self clinging.
Last edited: 11 January 2018 18:19:07