Posted: 16/06/2013 at 10:44
Having the same thing here with a 25' ash tree. Feeding them will only encourage them. Personal recommendations:
... or ...
... in .177 with ...
... and ...
... or ...
... and plenty of practice. Ambidextrous design is an advantage if you don't know whether you're a right- or left-handed shooter or if you may find yourself havign to shoot around the "wrong" side of a barn to get a particular rabbit. The pre-charged are probably better in that you don't have to move much to prepare a second shot, but they do require you to purchase, store and occasionally pay for refills and servicing of an air bottle. The underlever is a bit simpler. Look for something that shoots at 11.5 or 11.9 foot-pounds, 12 being the legal energy limit on an unlicensed air rifle (after that (16.27J and up) it's a class 1 firearm, the same as the 5.56x45mm L98A1 (1.77kJ), with the same legal requirements). As the limit is on energy, the lighter .177 pellets have 41% more muzzle energy than the heavier .22, so you'll get a flatter trajectory and more reach with the .177. I'd suggest zeroing it at 25m and learning the aim offsets for 5m, 10m, 15m, 20m, 30m and 35m.
Bear in mind that these things will punch holes through fence rails at short range and through rabbits at 50m, so you do need to be careful with them. Rules can be found here:
Also, as a molecular biologist, I advise you to dispose of dead pigeons the way you would dispose of dog dirt, only using a larger bag.