Chris 11


Latest posts by Chris 11

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What's wrong with my beetroot

Posted: 07/08/2016 at 22:24

Far, far, too many slug pellets used there. I'm not completely against using them if really necessary, but in the right quantities, at the right time.


You could have used quarter of that amount of pellets and achieved the same result.


And dramatically reduced the risk of poisoning birds and hedgehogs.


Presumably you are hoping to eat the beetroot? Don't you want to minimise the slug pellet chemicals going in to your food?

Seed and Plant swap 2016

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 16:59

Hi Victoria, I'd be interested in the tomato Supersweet 100


Will send a you a message.

Help Save The Hedgehogs

Posted: 03/07/2016 at 16:44

Brilliant thread, thanks mark56.


Saw no hedgehogs for probably more than 15 years, but have seen several in the last couple of years, and most memorably in my own garden for the first time.


Hopefully more people are also making their gardens wildlife friendly and the hedgies have a chance to increase in numbers again.

Sap or pest?

Posted: 24/04/2016 at 15:09

I'm pretty sure it's a Corn Palm, aka Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana').

Natural predators

Posted: 14/04/2016 at 23:18

Limnanthes douglasii -Poached Egg Plant is thought to be particularly good at attracting hoverflies, one of the best predators for aphids.

Chili plants indoors

Posted: 09/04/2016 at 21:17

It's quite common to read about people hand pollinating with small brushes or cotton buds, but I don't really think it is necessary. Chillies easily self pollinate or cross pollinate with other plants, depending on growing circumstances.

If you think they need any extra help, just give the plant a gentle tap every day or two after flowers have started forming and that will usually be enough to stimulate movement of pollen and self pollination.

Free T&M Experimental Tomato seeds

Posted: 02/04/2016 at 12:27

I grew them and had poor germination and problems with the leaves not escaping the seed casing, others here reported something similar.

I believe they are now on sale as Mountain Magic F1, although if you emailed T&M they would probably confirm for sure.

http://www.thompson-morgan.com/vegetables/vegetable-seeds/tomato-seeds/tomato-mountain-magic/tm54735TM

When to move tomatoes/peppers/chillies/aubergines to the greenhouse?

Posted: 30/03/2016 at 22:54

Tomatoes will tolerate cooler nights than the chillies or peppers, so if you need to make room, put the tomatoes in the greenhouse first.

I've got a similar problem with limited indoor sunny windowsill space, and have already put some tomato seedlings out in an unheated greenhouse.

No doubt somebody else will say it's too early, but so far mine have been ok.

An unheated greenhouse with doors closed overnight will give protection of about 5*C compared to outdoors.

Tomato seeds

Posted: 26/03/2016 at 12:29

I'd agree about not over feeding too early, or plants will be focusing all their energies on lush green growth and getting bigger and might delay fruiting and flowering

But don't go too far the other way, I don't agree with some people thinking they should let the plants wilt and starve to provoke them into last ditch survival attempts to produce fruit and therefore seed. Get the right balance, no need for physiological damage that will harm the plant.

'Treat them mean' seems to have become a regular view here, but not in the majority of growing guides you will read elsewhere. Yes, letting the compost nearly dry out helps the plant experience a natural cycle and get oxygen to the roots. But letting them dry out completely could contribute to both splitting and blossom end rot in tomatoes. And risks damage that the plant may not fully recover from.

(Chillies are more drought tolerant, so you could let them get closer to drying out, as Mel M suggests.)

Little and often is best for feed. Reduce the the dilutions and increase the frequency when watering heavily in hot weather.

Cost effective moss killer

Posted: 25/03/2016 at 11:32

Will take a bit more effort and planning, but you could try Iron Sulphate if you don't want to use any weedkiller. Just have to be careful working out the dilutions and keeping off it to prevent any shoes or animal feet transferring iron stains. Will be more economical and environment friendly in the long run.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Iron-Sulphate-Conditioner-Killer-soluble/dp/B00DJ48NW6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_86_3/280-2999748-0260127?ie=UTF8&refRID=0762CKK1GM5JXMGWXRX8

Otherwise agreed about Wilkos being the cheap and cheerful option:

http://www.wilko.com/lawn-seed+food/wilko-lawn-feed-weed-and-moss-killer-50sqm-175kg/invt/0159284

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