Daintiness

Latest posts by Daintiness

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jean

Posted: 11/05/2013 at 12:07

Erica carnea 'Jean'

Removing Slabs; Putting down a Bed

Posted: 07/05/2013 at 12:51

Ok, now I get the picture. If I were you I would leave the slabs closest to the fence in situ as there will be less light and water available there and more concrete from the foundations from the fence in that area.When you lift which ever slabs you want in the front row make sure you dig a substantial hole and back fill with good top soil etc. You certainly should be able to cover the fence with climbers or shrubs etc. Maybe you could post a picture when you finish - good luck

Help needed in idenityfing a plant

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 21:19

Yes, I agree with Salino and nutcutlet. Looks identical to the picture in my RHS book.

Help needed in idenityfing a plant

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 19:53

Looks like a spirea but difficult to be sure without seeing the leaf as well.

Evergreen bushes

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 18:55

What sort of aspect will the pot have? N/S/E/W -Centre of garden, against a wall; sheltered; exposed; is it to screen; what style are you after? You will get a better answer if you can give a little more detail

Removing Slabs; Putting down a Bed

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 18:38

How many slabs are we talking and how wide is the area in question? Do you have plans to reuse the slabs somewhere else in the garden? If not, you could offer them on freecycle. As for what's under them I would get rid of it. If a thing is worth doing it is worth doing well. You don't want to go to the expense of buying shrubs, preparing soil, and as Danny mentioned the issue of drainage etc only to watch them die!

Do you have access to a car? Builders bags half filled could be transported much more cheaply this way than the hiring of a skip. Or as my friend did...every week put a few pieces into her bin bag until there was none left. Again how much are we dealing with?

Little shrubs will hopefully become big shrubs and they will look to get sustainance from the soil and also use it as an anchor - this need will only increase with the age of the plants.

Help, are these plants ok for my small wildlife pond?

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 13:53

You can grow land cress, a kind of water cress in a container. Water cress itself usuallly grows best in flowing water as far as I can remember. Land cress seeds are readily available and it crops quite quickly too.

Raised beds depth

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 12:21

It will depend what you intend to grow eg lettuce or potatoes?. If you are setting the raised bed onto open soil or setting int onto a paved surface etc. There are a lot of variables to take into consideration....let us know which ones apply to you and then we will be able to give better advice.

Help, are these plants ok for my small wildlife pond?

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 00:30

The ramp should do the job for getting creatures in and out but frogs may not spawn unless they have access to a little more in the way of shallow water. They hopefully will do it among your marginal plants which will provide a shelf on a shelf - if you see what I mean.

It will also be likely that your pond may get greener and take a while to clear - combination of nutrients in the water and the sunlight we are experiencing at the moment which will heat the water quickly in a small pond. Monty Don was adding barley straw(not wheat - it must be barley) to his pond a couple of weeks back to help with the balance in his pond. It might be something you may need to add as well. You can buy it in ready made sheets for a small pond like yours or add a handful or two of fresh straw wrapped in an old pop sock, onion bag etc. I can't remember the amounts needed, he did explain. Might be worth taking a look on the i player.

Sounds as though you have made a great start and hopefully will soon be seeing lots of critters visiting.

Weeds ID

Posted: 06/05/2013 at 00:18

It's looking suspiciously like ground elder. I am not a 100% sure, hopefully someone else will comment. It is the sort of plant that can come back from the dead on a regular basis, surviving composting etc. If it is zap with glysophate immediately and continue applying it regularly throughout the summer until you win.

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