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Dave Morgan

Latest posts by Dave Morgan


Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:53

I'd hold off on the fungicide. Lupins at this time of year will deteriorate without warning and soon the frost will kill off all the foliage anyway. They do look scruffy so cutting down the foliage won't hurt them, a mulch overwinter will feed them and next year they will come up bright and breezy anyway. I've never found spraying at this time of year does anything to brighten them up. Powdery mildew, which this is, is part of the natural cycle at this time of year and will soon affect many perennials as the weather starts to cool and moisture increases.

Shrivelling fuchsias

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:45

Can't quite tell from enlarging the picture what the problem is, although some of the stems look to be broken, have you checked well below the damage?

no idea

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:40

It's Tamarisk!

Erigeron karvinskianus

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 15:10

Plant it out now tonks, the ground is still warm and won't cool for another month or more, so it will establish very quickly.

Advice for a newbie, please ...

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 14:53

Firstly welcome, you've come to one of the best places for free help I have ever known.

So far you seem to be doing all the right things so carry on what your'e doing.

As for the perennials, if they're as small as you say then I would leave them overwinter in the polytunnel for winter. they need a good root structure to thrive and I would guess they still have a way to go before getting there. When the roots fill the pot they'll be ready to plant out, and over the next month they should get somewhere near that point before going dormant in the winter. By that time the ground will have cooled significantly and so putting them then would increase the likelihood of losing them. When the days start to lengthen in April next year, as long as the ground isn't frozen then you can consider planting them out, so keep an eye on the weather.

Planting out in spring can be hazardous as unexpected cold snaps can do untold damage to newly planted out perennials, so look for a longer warm spell next year, even a few weeks of warm sunshine can give them a better start.

When it gets to that time, don't be afraid to ask for help on here, the only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.

Right now I would improve the soil in which you intend to plant them, will some well rotted manure. This will rot down over winter and give them a good start when they do go out.

Best of luck.

Pear Tree Problem?

Posted: 13/09/2014 at 11:55

We'll according to the RHS site there is no specific fungicide for pear rust, so it may be case of good hygiene and vigilance over chemicals. A general purpose fungicide may help, so it's worth a go as there is nothing to lose by trying.

Pear Tree Problem?

Posted: 13/09/2014 at 08:43

Pear rust that sounds like. Have a look at the link below.


Posted: 13/09/2014 at 08:40

They are perennials so they should come back next year, I normally cut down the flowered  stem once it's finished. I don't know what others do, you'll get suggestions no doubt.

viburnum beetle

Posted: 12/09/2014 at 15:24

If you go to the rhs website, there's a list there of suitable sprays for controlling them, of if your'e organic, you can just pick them off.

Random question but why....

Posted: 11/09/2014 at 20:21

Prey insects are often attracted by light. Humans by leaving their interior lights on during the hours of darkness means insects, in particular moths, congregate near the light source. Thus our unintentioned assistance provides a ready made takeaway for bats.

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