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Dave Morgan


Latest posts by Dave Morgan

Pruning Cherry laurel

Posted: 08/09/2014 at 23:06

Tough plants, they'll come back stronger than ever, I've pruned them throughout the year and it's made no difference.

swede that grow on their side

Posted: 08/09/2014 at 23:03

Wouldn't worry too much marksman, they'll still grow and taste the same so unless you want prize veg let them get on with it, They look the same in the pan and on the plate when you've chopped them up.

Sub-soil nasties?

Posted: 08/09/2014 at 14:37

I wouldn't worry about the fungi, but I would be worried about planting anything in that soil!. It's full of sand and cement. Nothing will take root in that it will just burn the roots of anything you plant, so I'd remove it all or as much as humanly possible and get fresh topsoil and manure in there before planting anything.

Weed or honeysuckle please!

Posted: 08/09/2014 at 14:30

Link doesn't work Trish, try uploading to this site by clicking on the green tree icon above the dialogue box.

autumn planting

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 16:41

You can plant raspberries,strawberries most fruit now for a crop next year, spring cabbage can go in now as well, onions,garlic as well. All will crop next year.

where to start!

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 14:04

Clueless, don't start a lawn now, wait till spring, bit late now. Do as Fairygirl has suggested, raised beds first, they'll take time on their own and you have the opportunity to see how they do over winter and next spring.

In spring, I'd use glyphosate to kill off the whole lawn area, treat twice as it'll take a few weeks to all die back

As .fairygirl has said, using machines to turn the soil can cause more problems than it's worth, digging is the better bet even though it's hard work the results will be better.

There is plenty of guidance on sowing or turfing a lawn in the HOW TO section on the site. It's simple and easy to follow and leaving it till spring will give you time to consider what else you want to do in the garden as well.

 

Privet hedge

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 13:52

Have a look at the link below Molliemay, you may find the problem there.

http://www.gardenguides.com/84682-privet-hedge-disease.html

Savoy Cabbage.

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 13:48

I'd get them in now Jad1.

See the link below to the rhs, lots of advice there.

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/vegetables/cabbages

Roses

Posted: 07/09/2014 at 12:43

I give this advice on a regime regularly, it works for me and my customers and is based on a common sense approach to the behaviour of fungal spores which persist in the soil.

Remove all the foliage from the rose and any detritus on the ground surrounding the rose. Spray the whole plant with Rose Clear, stems and flowers. Then spray the ground around the rose. Leave for a day to let the spray do it's work as you have a bad infestation, then feed and mulch with well rotted manure.It will look dreadful but it's worth it in the long run.

Wait till spring then cut the rose back hard and spray in the same manner again including the ground. Feed and mulch again.

Winter rain will stir up fungal spores laying dormant in the soil, so spraying is vital in early spring.

Ensure good ventilation around the rose as this helps stop the spores gathering in one place.

Shrub ID - Best time for harsh cut back??

Posted: 06/09/2014 at 19:21

Sarah, you've got a berberis(purple one) and laurel. Berberis is best pruned in spring as you'll get the benefit of the colour all winter, a light trim at most. The laurel you can trim up now, but growth is starting to slow in most shrubs now, so a light trim is best just to keep the shape.

Next spring you can cut it right back if required same with the berberis as the late summer/winter colour will be produced on the new growth. 

I'd leave a major job on both till spring, the laurel will come back faster than the berberis which will take time.

Sorry ti disagree with Dove but my experience of both shrubs has proved different.

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