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Dave Morgan


Latest posts by Dave Morgan

Diseased hedge diagnosis

Posted: 02/02/2016 at 16:09

It's neither of those Kits, very different diseases, you'll probably have to improve the drainage and you may lose the whole hedge. The wet winters we're having will continue, so doing the job this spring/summer will hopefully future proof the ground, and if you replant, try a different hedge plant. It should give better results. I always find privet a bit fickle, they can succumb to disease very quickly. A more robust laurel which tolerates damp soil may be a better option.

Lowering area with clay soil

Posted: 02/02/2016 at 16:01

Just a thought a pond? She's old enough now and they're easy enough and they are an endless fascination for kids.

Diseased hedge diagnosis

Posted: 02/02/2016 at 13:55

They look like lichens to me which on their own aren't a problem, however, it could be a sign of root rot. Now that is impossible to control. Root rot is present when the soil is particularly wet and the oxygen in the soil is excluded. Is your soil particularly wet? It seems the whole hedge isn't affected you may have to improve the drainage in that particular area to allow more oxygen into the soil.

Lowering area with clay soil

Posted: 02/02/2016 at 10:16

If you're having a kids play area then why go with grass? Kids play area's need to be hard wearing and grass will quickly suffer with all the foot traffic leaving you with bare patches if any grass at all. You'd be better off laying a membrane and putting bark on top till they're old enough to not need the play area. It would save you money and a lot of work. You'd only have to create a border around the area to help contain the bark. 

If the slab has been in place for that long the ground will be very compacted. But a Rotavator will break it up. But for now I'd go down the bark route. When they've grown up a bit natural forces will have loosened the clay a bit and grassing will be a lot less work.

Lowering area with clay soil

Posted: 01/02/2016 at 20:47

I don't know how long the concrete slab has been there Ste9 and I see you have a tree close by as well. Digging wider won't relieve compaction, you have to go deeper there's no alternative. It might be useful to know how big the tree is as well. The bigger they get the more water they take up. Clay doesn't always need land drains you're right but as i said the compaction isn't letting what's there drain naturally. Position of the GH makes no difference at all. It doesn't have to be a major exercise in engineering. Once you break up the top foot, and you can do that with a Rotavator you can pour pea shingle on and rotavated it in and that will help it drain better. Do you intend to grow anything there or is it for something else?

greenhouse thermometer

Posted: 01/02/2016 at 20:33

To be honest I prefer a simple Max/ min thermometer for a GH. And I'm computer literate! The rest I watch the weather forecast for and anyway unless you link all that to an automated water and misting system for inside the GH its pretty unnecessary.

Lowering area with clay soil

Posted: 01/02/2016 at 15:02

It sounds like you have a serious drainage problem. The clay you have is probably compacted after having the patio on top so it'll be a devil to break up, which you can't do right now for obvious reasons. You'll need to break up the compaction before even thinking of laying a land drain. They are easy enough to install, but you have to do them properly or they won't work, plus you need to !make sure the water doesn't affect anyone else. You'll have to wait till it dries out, not completely, but sufficiently so that the work can be done. It may be worth getting some advice before taking the project on especially when it comes to where the excess water will drain too. After its in you can just top with topsoil and lay grass or sow seed. You'll have to check after laying the drains that they work. You can pick up the pipes from any good builders merchant plus the aggregate and sharp sand needed to make it effective.

Holly tree, cematis montana and bird cover

Posted: 31/01/2016 at 21:33

LG why not replace the montane with another less vigorous clematis. I haven't come across a Montana where tying in or down it's shoots has ever restricted its growth. And when you prune them hard they form new shoots in all directions and are a bain in a smaller space to manage properly. You seem to prefer the holly and they're easy to manage. 

Turning compost

Posted: 30/01/2016 at 21:37

Depends how much stuff you're putting in it Maureen. It slows down in winter so once a month is plenty.

Decomposed Granit?

Posted: 30/01/2016 at 21:33

It's probably crushed granite Sam. Granite comes in several colours all natural and is used widely in landscaping. You need to find a local stone or aggregate supplier. You can buy it in various sizes and its simply laid. What you've looked at looks like compacted paths, and to get those right you can hire a compacter from tool hire shops. Otherwise its pretty simple, you just need to edge whatever path you're creating. Last you years as well.

Discussions started by Dave Morgan

ID please

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Shrub ID please

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Uploading pics

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Any idea's as to what this is?

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Plant ID please

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plant ID

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Cut down Perennial Poppy?

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Shrub ID

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Uploading pics

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New Pots in bags

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