Dave Morgan

Latest posts by Dave Morgan

Replacing old lawn with flower border

Posted: 15/09/2014 at 18:03

If it's only 30x10 you can do that in half a day to lift and another day or two to dig. Depends how fit you are and the money you have to waste. I'm tight fisted by the way.


Posted: 15/09/2014 at 15:55

You can do either Lulu. If the root structure is pretty good then they will establish before winter. The only problem with them is slugs love them, so depends on your slug problem really.

Replacing old lawn with flower border

Posted: 15/09/2014 at 15:52

I'd lift the turf and either stack it to let it rot down or put to one side and as you start to dig the new border bury it a spade depth down grass side down. That way it adds humus to the soil and an instant fertiliser.


Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:53

I'd hold off on the fungicide. Lupins at this time of year will deteriorate without warning and soon the frost will kill off all the foliage anyway. They do look scruffy so cutting down the foliage won't hurt them, a mulch overwinter will feed them and next year they will come up bright and breezy anyway. I've never found spraying at this time of year does anything to brighten them up. Powdery mildew, which this is, is part of the natural cycle at this time of year and will soon affect many perennials as the weather starts to cool and moisture increases.

Shrivelling fuchsias

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:45

Can't quite tell from enlarging the picture what the problem is, although some of the stems look to be broken, have you checked well below the damage?

no idea

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 19:40

It's Tamarisk!

Erigeron karvinskianus

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 15:10

Plant it out now tonks, the ground is still warm and won't cool for another month or more, so it will establish very quickly.

Advice for a newbie, please ...

Posted: 14/09/2014 at 14:53

Firstly welcome, you've come to one of the best places for free help I have ever known.

So far you seem to be doing all the right things so carry on what your'e doing.

As for the perennials, if they're as small as you say then I would leave them overwinter in the polytunnel for winter. they need a good root structure to thrive and I would guess they still have a way to go before getting there. When the roots fill the pot they'll be ready to plant out, and over the next month they should get somewhere near that point before going dormant in the winter. By that time the ground will have cooled significantly and so putting them then would increase the likelihood of losing them. When the days start to lengthen in April next year, as long as the ground isn't frozen then you can consider planting them out, so keep an eye on the weather.

Planting out in spring can be hazardous as unexpected cold snaps can do untold damage to newly planted out perennials, so look for a longer warm spell next year, even a few weeks of warm sunshine can give them a better start.

When it gets to that time, don't be afraid to ask for help on here, the only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.

Right now I would improve the soil in which you intend to plant them, will some well rotted manure. This will rot down over winter and give them a good start when they do go out.

Best of luck.

Pear Tree Problem?

Posted: 13/09/2014 at 11:55

We'll according to the RHS site there is no specific fungicide for pear rust, so it may be case of good hygiene and vigilance over chemicals. A general purpose fungicide may help, so it's worth a go as there is nothing to lose by trying.

Pear Tree Problem?

Posted: 13/09/2014 at 08:43

Pear rust that sounds like. Have a look at the link below.


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