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Dave Morgan


Latest posts by Dave Morgan

ID's if possible please =+)

Posted: 05/08/2014 at 16:08

Looks like a rather unhealthy mint!

How can I make ericaceous compost more solid?

Posted: 05/08/2014 at 16:07

I think I'd add topsoil and FYM to encourage worm activity over the winter. If it's just laid on top, they will do the job for you over winter, it's probably the only solution.

How can I make ericaceous compost more solid?

Posted: 05/08/2014 at 10:32

I'd have to agree here, your'e better off working with your soil than against it. It saves money and heartache in the long run. Pot displays can be more impressive than border displays plus it adds flexability.

Ceanothus

Posted: 05/08/2014 at 10:28

Emma just take a leading shoot and nip it off, about 6 inches, dip in hormone rooting powder and pop it into some compost. It will do equally as well if put straight into the ground, put it aside and almost ignore it apart from watering. Yes there is a difference of opinion re pruning, but all your'e doing is reshaping of the top. 

As for soil I've seen them do well in all types of soil, but sun is best. I've also seen them in very windy places and they still survive.

All I can say is if it's doing well where it is then just be happy for it. A happy plant is a healthy plant and age makes no difference if your'e happy.

How can I make ericaceous compost more solid?

Posted: 04/08/2014 at 22:46

Ericaceous compost is usually very high in peat. Peat holds water you simply can't harden it up. If you mix it thoroughly with garden soil  you shouldn't have a problem.

Problems will arise if you put too much compost in. Then it will be as you have described. You only need to put pure compost into containers not in the ground. Anyway it's wasteful as the subsoil probably won't have a high acid content anyway. Your'e better off feeding acid lovers with suitable feeds and top dressing with the compost.

From your description I think you've over done the compost.

Ceanothus

Posted: 04/08/2014 at 17:32

Do it now Emma, there is still time for it to recover, I'd take a few cuttings as well, they root very easily, feed and mulch it as well, it will be fine. They are fairly tough although not very long lived, about 8 - 10 years is average.

A few random questions...

Posted: 04/08/2014 at 10:15

Tootles, your climber doesn't need pruning in it's first year. Mdme Alfred Carrie is a rampant climber growing to 20ft or more. The most important thing you can do is wait for winter and create a frame for it with wire's Mine has a 5 metre wide climbing frame behind it and wires every 2 ft. Training it onto those wires will give you the best display in subsequent years. 

This link to you tube is a great lesson for those who are learning. If you follow it you'll get it right first time. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf7F5qhChFM

After doing the training, usually in early spring, only minor pruning is required afterwards.

Best of luck.

Wish list for seed and plant swap

Posted: 03/08/2014 at 14:40

Had a thought bekkie, salvia's or agastache would make good additions doesn't matter what variety they are.

Plant recognition

Posted: 03/08/2014 at 12:21

It's a Salix, could be flamingo but I can't enlarge it enough to see properly. There are several variegated varieties. 

Wish list for seed and plant swap

Posted: 03/08/2014 at 10:41

I've got so much waiting to go in at the moment in sept, I'll have to see, thanks for the offer though. What colour phlox would you like, I have pink, white and a dark pink?

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