Latest posts by Fairygirl

Wilting lavender - help!

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 18:16

Was the compost damp when you planted it?  If it wasn't moist enough when it went  in the ground, it won't take up the water you've given it. There's quite a lot of top growth there for the roots to initially support. It's also important to check that the roots are teased out enough that they can get into the surrounding soil. Plants can easily get pot bound, especially if they're a bit dry, or have been in the same pot for a long time.

The best solution, as you've taken it back out the ground, is to thoroughly soak the plant in a bucket until it's thoroughly dampened. Don't put it in full sun for now and wait till it's perked up again. Water really well (a good can full) after replanting and do that again every few days until it shows signs of growth, or you get decent rainfall. Although they like sun and good  drainage, they still need to be well watered until properly established.  

Last edited: 16 June 2017 18:18:10


Posted: 16/06/2017 at 17:52

I'm a bit too busy for that Dove - I have a house of my own to look after .....

Pond water

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 16:52

That elodea stuff is tough as anything GD - it'll survive pretty much anything, so once that establishes, it'll help. I expect your well water will be quite different from standard tapwater, but I'm sure things will settle down over time. Saving the plants in the pond is probably important at the moment though.  

Have you got any biggish plants in pots that you can stick nearby to give a bit of shade to the surface of the pond - at least for a few hours? You could try the watercress chcuked in to see if it soaks up a bit of the excess nutrients too.

We don't have to worry about too much sun here just now - it's been very sparse in the last two weeks - a few hours here and there. Grey and damp again today. Standard Scottish summer weather  

Garden Gallery 2017

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 16:35

One from last week

One hungry visitor

One from yesterday


Posted: 16/06/2017 at 15:57

I'd never have to time to go to work or do anything else if I had to pick everything up that landed on my grass!

Philippe - unfortunately ( or fortunately - depending  on your views)  - gardens aren't like houses, so bits of this and that 'landing' on grass are inevitable. Unless you can control the weather of course......

Lawn vacs are readily available, as Dove suggests 

identifying a hose spray gun

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 15:33

I had no issue posting photos this morning. 

The camera icon should take you to whatever photo library you have on your device.You may have to resize them. Under 2.5 MB is fine. Not sure what that is in pixels, but you can check on whichever photo editor you use. 

Pond water

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 15:31

Oh GD - I'm so sorry you're having a problem after all your hard work and effort. I hope it can be resolved relatively easily. I'm sure once you've replaced some water, things will settle, as Philippa says.

A good few weeks of rain might be very welcome - even if not for you!

Have you taken the plants out and relocated them in a temporary home for the time being? It would be worth doing if you can - to try and save them. Buckets or anything you can find.  They're expensive if you have to start replacing those 

Pond Newst

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 15:24

How big is your concrete area NewBoy? You could add some large pots or containers with good cover in them to give some shelter from any predators that might be around too. Anything big and leafy would be great - ferns, grasses, hostas etc, or any perennials and small shrubs. If you group those together, and add a few decent sized rocks and logs in piles in and around those, there will be lots of  safe little places for wildlife to hide.

mini pond

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 14:34

Anything which encourages some 'visitors' is a good thing   

It's not a bad idea to just get your main thing done and a couple of plants, and then let it settle for a bit until you see what else you can, or want, to do. Remember to have other planting around for wildlife to hide and shelter in. A couple of ferns, grasses and something else evergreen like heucheras, would be a very useful addition. The evergreen carexes are particularly good as they'll often cope with wet or dry, shade or sun once established, and don't need much attention. Birds will love having a little bath   

New Camellia - Watering advice

Posted: 16/06/2017 at 14:27

Growmore isn't really ideal, but won't do any harm. You could use proprietary feeds for Camellias, and  you may need to do that  if the soil isn't great, for a while anyway. Each spring you could add a slow release general fertiliser (B,F&B) and that will be sufficient if the soil's good by then. I should have asked if you have other planting nearby too - that will also deplete water and nutrients, so keep an eye on the general condition of the bed/border.

A bigger, more established plant can actually be harder to work with, but so far, it seems you're doing fine.If you're needing to water it that much, you will need to address the soil long term, because the soil is key to good growing for shrubs like Camellias. If you were in an area with high rainfall, it wouldn't matter quite so much, but if the soil isn't retaining water, it makes it difficult.  I'd make sure you add some decent soil based compost (or the aforementioned well rotted manure) to the bed, rather than just compost. Leaf mould or composted bark would also be good, and you can apply that as the mulch. You can do that on a regular basis throughout the year- especially in long, dry spells. Worms will also help drag it down into the soil. It's useful to put a decent application of that down in autumn after some rainfall when the ground's moist.  

Anything that improves the soil and the moisture retaining properties will be very helpful  

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