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Latest posts by Fairygirl

large gap needs filling

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 17:06

Hi Tilly, re your problem with interlopers  -  I know exactly how you feel. 

Firstly, as it's a conifer you've removed, the soil will need a bit of nourishment, so add some farmyard manure (well rotted) if you can get it, or dried stuff which you can get from GCs or DIY stores, some fresh compost and a sprinkling of general fertiliser of your own preference. Can you let us know what sort of aspect the area is, as that can affect suggestions too, and would you want something evergreen or does that not matter? There will be loads of suitable shrubs so any extra info you can offer will be a big help 

Bay Tree trouble

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 16:56

I wondered if it was overwatering as well, rather than just insect/disease damage nut, although it does look like a leaf miner type of damage. Pic doesn't enlarge well enough to get a good look though,so hard to tell. Didn't think leaf miner went for bay either.

Evergreen Complete 4 in 1

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 16:51

Ideally when the grass is damp not soaking Rob, as others have said. If the grass is long it might be best to get a cut done first - or maybe a couple - so that it's a reasonable height before you apply. Normally, if it doesn't rain after a few days you need to water it to avoid it scorching, but at this time of year it's not usually a problem. Sometimes a second application's needed if you don't get all the weeds first time round.

Bay Tree trouble

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 16:45

Lacewings are great predators of greenfly etc. but they don't eat plants. Where do you keep your bay Penny - is it indoors?

Digital Edition access for Paper Subscribers

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 15:10

I must have missed that bus too nut....

How to design my garden

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 15:06

Having done techie drawing etc, I'd measure out the plot and draw it. Include the locations of the things you have that you are keeping. Trace the drawings and print out copies that you can then doodle on to decide what and where you want stuff. If you haven't done drawing of that kind then measure up as best you can to get the boundaries at least, and take pix as fidget says. Don't forget some pix of walls, fences and anything which overlooks your plot that may impact on your design. Look at magazine and books for pictures of gardens so that you can decide on the look you like best and list any little features you'd like to incorporate.  Just make sure that when you doodle - it's to the right scale for the plan. Many people have thought  'I could put a big table and 6 chairs in that nice little spot'  - only to realise the nice little spot is really about 3 feet square!

Then remortgage your house so that you can build it all!....

Lawn Care Query

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 14:33

I always use Evergreen and it seems to do the job. I only use it in spring, and rarely more than once. I never bother with an autumn feed. I think most of the products readily available will do a good job - it probably comes down to your pocket!  

If your grass is very mossy, perhaps it's too shady or very compacted - or a combination of both. You may always struggle to get a good 'sward' if that's the case Budsgarden. Might be worth doing a bit of re seeding as well, and remember not to cut too short when you mow - that just gives the moss a chance to muscle in. 

Talkback: Dealing with moss

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 14:27

rhapsody - I wouldn't put the moss in the compost heap. After using chemical lawn treatments any clippings etc that you have should be put in your bin for council uplift. I wait about 6 weeks after using anything before adding the clippings to my compost. I've not had any problems  

Digital Edition access for Paper Subscribers

Posted: 07/04/2014 at 14:10

I didn't even understand the question. 


Posted: 07/04/2014 at 14:07

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